Hi,
Ive been cramming a lot of information of late and initially want to get a handle on the important measurements. Here's a process I came up with and hoping its OK. Would appreciate any comments. Im not confident Im on the right path????

Step 1.
As I understand to develop a load (with only interest on chamber dimensions at this point in time) we need to establish a benchmark OAL (Case Base to Lands) using a "Modified Case" (say the Hornady type Mod Case) and Bullet of choice.

Step 2.
Then using the same "Modified Case" measure the Headspace (for lack of a better term) with a Headspace Gauge (Case Base to Datum Line).

Step 3.
If we then subtract Step 1 from Step 2 we have a true reading for the Cartridge Datum Line to the Lands. Which we can utilize during Bullet Seating with or without Bullet Jump.

Now to the Cartridge of choice.(say new Brass).

Step 4.
Using a Shell Holder Set & Body Die determine, by sizing, the Zero Headspace for the Brass of choice within the Chamber. Add a suitable Bump to the Headspace (~.001-.002).

Step 5.
Using the Brass of choice, now sized for suitable Headspace&Bump, measure the Headspace using Headspace Gauge.

Add Step 3 to Step 5. to get the OAL for the new Cartridge & Bullet suited to this Chamber.

Insert Bullet to this OAL and add any Jump required. (say .01 off the lands)

Welcome to AR SakoOZ

I won't go into much detail as there are many here that hopefully have a higher tolerance for typing then I do.

You are over complicating things......buy a couple handloading books and read them.

Sierra, Hornady, Nosler, Speer, Lee, ect ect ect

Good luck and above all....enjoy your new hobby

Like what Ted said. get the book and read.
pick a load some where in the min to middle load and shoot,

What they said, and, just starting out; forget all the fancy stuff. Read the manuals, and start slow and basic. You will learn those detailed steps some guys use in search of an accurate load; some work and some don't matter.
Which is why I recommend starting out on a Lee Loader; they load great ammo and you learn and it costs $20.

Step 1, Erase from your memory the 5 steps you listed above, at least until you're shooting a full custom rifle in BR competition (because until than it doesn't matter).
Step 2, purchase 2 (or more) manuals IE: 1 ea from the bullet and powder manufacture(s) of your choice (local availability of components comes into play here).
Step 3, STUDY the reloading information in them, skipping over the load data sections for now.
Step 4, Look over the data section for your cartridge, and select a bullet and powder to try first (if a manual suggest a "most accurate" powder, that's a good one to start with).
Step 5, Start reloading the brass fired from your rifle.
Step 6, Enjoy shooting your reloads for group size.
Step 7*, Refine your powder charge to reduce the group size from step 6.
Step 8*, Refine your OAL to reduce the group size from step 7.
Step 9*, Try a different powder or bullet, and start over at step 6
* Steps 7, 8 & 9 are optional, depending on your level of OCD.

quote:

You are over complicating things

+1

Buy reloading book and read it. Then obtain reloading equipment if still interested. The Lee press kits come with a book.

Wow, I have been reloading metallic cartridges since the early 1970s and currently load 23 different cartridges. I pretty much do none of what you described. You are way over complicating this fun hobby.
Several guys mentioned buying a manual or to, I agree. I happen to think Lyman manuals are very good.
Keep it simple and follow the manual.

As many of our friends above mentioned, you are making things a bit too complicated.

Two things to bear in mind about cartridge length.

It must fit in the magazine.
Seat bullets at least one caliber in the case.

Personally, I have never bothered with bullet jump.

For bench rest rifles, I load the ammo to touch the rifling.

For anything else, the above two rules are the ones we follow.

here's the best advice i can give you -- the last 100fps is VERY expensive in terms of pressure and increased risk - and trying to go above book max is a very bad idea. a 30-06 will NEVER be a 300 winmag ... and you don't need it to be

second best advice - moderate loads are more accurate, most of the time

third bit - get a chrono if you are worried about vels -- (you shouldn't be for the first couple years) - get a cheap one, as you'll shoot it... "everyone" does - and shoot some factory ammo over it -- you'll be surprised

final, and first - BE SAFE ...

I agree with everyone else.. The questions you are asking fall more into the "advanced" category. (sounds like "benchrest speak to me) Ive been at this for 45 years, and i can't answer some of these questions!

but as others have said.... READ, READ, AND READ SOME MORE.. Then start with the basics, and move one step at a time toward your goal..

Others may disagree, and may be right, but here is what I do:
1. Put a case through the sizing die.
2. With no primer or powder, seat the longest bullet you have until the case neck just barely holds the bullet.
3. Slowly seat the bullet bit by bit until it fits into the gun action. Ideally, the action should seat the last bit of the bullet. I save this case/bullet for future reference, as it shows where the bullet engages the lands.
4. Set the seating die so the bullet has a slight jump to engage the lands.
5. When looking at load data, select the one where the test rifle most closely matches your rifle.
6. Select the highest grainage powder without compressing the load. As a rule of thumb, that will be your most accurate load.
7. Have fun reloading and shooting your loads.

In addition: keep detailed records of what you did, i.e. component brands, measurements on brass and loaded ammo, bullet weight, powder and weight, primer; shooting results (include range info - distance, temps, wind, time) how many in a group, size of group.

All this so you can duplicate the loads without guessing.

SakoOZ,

Welcome aboard!

You've received great advice above.

The KISS principle applies here.

1. Using a fired brass case from your rifle.

2. Blacken case with a candle (just above the flame; without buring your fingers!) so the neck and a small amount of the case shoulder is black with soot.

3. With this sooted case adjust the die in your press until the soot is removed right up to the joint between the case neck & shoulder (you'll be able to see if you've removed soot from the shoulder, that's too much!).

4. Lock everything down and start loading.

5. As noted above, don't fret the A.O.L., seat the bullet a minimum of one caliber; and start with a standard A.O.L. for the cartridge you are loading, attempt to use a powder that affords a higher load density (L.D.), 97%,98%, etc. in combiation with the bullet you have selected - this is a great place to start and will result in intital efforts with a maximum success potential.

Have fun.