A long time ago, I read about several liquid products for case cleaning. After reading the reviews and then hearing about some home made solutions, I decided to try my hand at it. I took some 7mm rem mag cases that were almost black from tarnish. This was in the days before I began to neck size and was still using RCBS gel case lube. That stuff tarnished cases in time no matter how well you wiped it off, or at least that was my experience.

So I took these badly tarnished cases and made up a mixture of what I had on hand. I was using these cases because I figured they were scrap anyway so if I destroyed them it was no loss. I was then and am now a Dairyman and I have several chemical's here that fit the bill of what others were saying worked for them. I chose to use a blend of phosphoric and sulfuric acid known as "acid pipeline sanitizer". I mixed it three to one with water and added a small amount of Dawn dish washing detergent. Once this was mixed I took a pair of pliers and eased a case down into it, but then changed my mind about the grip I had on the case so lifted it from the mixture before it was even completely submerged. The case was in contact with the solution for no more than a second and the results were amazing. I looked at the case astonished. One half the brass was as shiny and clean as new brass. I quickly rigged a tray so that the cases could be lowered into the brine and then removed after a few seconds. Soon, I had some almost new 7mm mag cases. I thought I would post this here this morning because I just finished the 7th reload with these cases and they have been cleaned after each use with my acid/water/detergent mix. I have not lost a single one of the group to anything related to brass failure. No erosion of the primer pockets, no cracks, and no case head separation. I have no idea how long these cases will last but they are at 8 firings and still going.

Now I'm sure you are wonder about the black on the necks and inside the cases. The solution makes the black removable but does remove it by itself. A simple cloth rubbed around the neck takes the black residue off on contact. As far as the inside the neck goes, a simple cotton swab like a q-tip removes the black residue with just a swipe or two.

These cases cleaned in my solution do not come out as you would expect if you are used to a tumbler. The are not polished per say but are stripped clean and literally squeak when you rub your fingers across them.

Now as to the acid its self. I do not know what the concentration is or the molar value but I can tell you that after a thousand times of getting it on my hands, I have never been burned, had my clothing damaged, or anything else that you would relate to contact with a harsh acid. Now I have some pure concentrated phosphoric acid that weighs more than any liquid I have handled. That will surely destroy brass, cloths, flesh, or any other damn thing it comes in contact with. We use it to sterilize stainless steel and thats it. So if you are tired of paying the cost associated with media, polisher and the tumbler it's self, then take a look around your home or the local hard ware store. The acid I use is only available from the local dairy supply company but a different brand that is identical can be bought at Farm and Fleet, Fleet and Farm, Tractor Supply and most other stores that handle farm related products. Experiment a bit and maybe you'll find a way to stop paying all the money associated with tumblers. BTW, I mixed a gallon of the acid solution for about five bucks and I have cleaned thousands of cases with it and its still going.

Joe

Joe
A 4:1 mix of hot water and white vinegar, followed by a hot water rinse works real well also.

I started with the vinegar solutions. White, Cider, concentrated sodium diacetate, they all did ok, but nothing compared to my concoction. I'll take some before and after pics this evening when I'm done with the cows.

I've had good luch with: 1 guart water, 1/4 quart white vinegar, 1 tablespoon salt and 2 tablespoons dishwashing detergent.

acid and lead (ANY AMOUNT OF LEAD) makes white lead acetate, and is more or less instantly absorbed by the skin. this was an "invisible" ink during the end of the 18th century... and killed many many many people, as, basically is instantly causing heavy metal poisioning

iirc, they used White WINE to do this, not a strong acid at all

You can also use WC acid cleanig stuff; since it's stronger than vineagar, you can use a 20-30% mix with hot water.

Jeff,

I knew that but to be honest I never counted on lead being on these cases. I have seen white lead acetate before but I have never seen it on any of the brass I have cleaned. I'm just curious as to how lead would be on the brass? Perhaps from cast bullets in bottle necked cases where there was no bell expander? None of my big bore stuff that I use cast in from time to time show any signs of the lead acetate. Do you have experience with an acid solution doing this to brass, and if so, what was the situation?

Joe

P.S. Bought a Ruger MkII left hand yesterday that is bound for the 470AR.

Gents,
I use a liquid called Kalkosan, which cost around $2 / 500 ml/ pint, diluted into the ultrasonic cleaner, with astonishing results. I am now into my 10th reloading of both 22 hornet and 375hh cases without any signs of exhaustion. I use ca 0,2-0,3 dl kalkosan to 0,5 l water and around 50 .375hh cases. Result is better than new after 90 seconds in the ultrasonic cleaner. Primer pockets clean too!

The mixture contains phosphoric acid, ascorbic acid, water. On the chemical ingredients list it is stated < 5% non-ionic tensides, perfume, myristalkonium chloride, Quarternium 14.

The original usage area for this liquid is to clean copper and lime stained sanitary items, like WC, Bath tubs, polishing brass and copper.
For a page in swedish, perhaps they can answer questions in english as well if it is not a secret recipy.
www.herdins.se
mail@herdins.se

Sincerely
Daniel

the lead is from the primers, which contain pellets containing lead styphnate or basic lead styphnate. it's not a lot, but I suppose it could add up. lead acetate was called "sugar of lead" for it's sweet taste. but do not taste it, for obvious reasons.

funny how nobody here has worried about chemically damaging the brass, but when people admit to using brasso to clean brass, the inevitible result is a cacophany of concerns that the brass is being weakend by ammoniac copper leaching.

we are a funny lot, I suppose.

FWIW birchwood-casey's brass cleaner is a weak organic acid, I can't remember if it's glycolic or glyphostic, probably the former. it is not as fast as the results above.

presuming the dark tarnish is oxidation, I always wondered if a reducing acid such as sulfamic acid would work well.