I have the Sinlcair neck turning tools. Std. mandrel and oversized mandrel along with a neck expander body.
We're neck sizing fire formed brass. Standard neck chamber .223 Ackley Improved. The std. mandrel fits tight, no slop in the brass.
I'm assuming the oversized mandrel and expander body is for forming a tight fit on the mouth/mandrel before turning, then neck size the brass to std. size with the reloading neck die and seat the bullet.
Right?
Instructions suggest setting the neck cutting tool so that about 70% - 80% of the neck is turned. On Lake City brass some necks don't trim at all, some trim completely, all around and most are in between at 70% - 80%. Is this the way it works?
Any other tips I should know? Thanks. This is a great forum resource.
quote:Originally posted by Genghis: I have the Sinlcair neck turning tools. Std. mandrel and oversized mandrel along with a neck expander body.
We're neck sizing fire formed brass. Standard neck chamber .223 Ackley Improved. The std. mandrel fits tight, no slop in the brass.
I'm assuming the oversized mandrel and expander body is for forming a tight fit on the mouth/mandrel before turning, then neck size the brass to std. size with the reloading neck die and seat the bullet.
Right?
Instructions suggest setting the neck cutting tool so that about 70% - 80% of the neck is turned. On Lake City brass some necks don't trim at all, some trim completely, all around and most are in between at 70% - 80%. Is this the way it works?
Any other tips I should know? Thanks. This is a great forum resource.
Genghis....Yes this is the way it works for me...if you are turning to just clean up the necks...if you are turning to get a specific thickness-thus clearance-on your brass.....some lots/brands are better than others....and some new brass with thick necks will require the expander use after resizing to fit the standard turning mandrel.....the 70/80% part is on the cleaning up the neck not to a predetermined tickness as you do for a fitted chamber...many factory chambers are so large that new brass always fits therefore turning is just to get near even walls to help keep concentricty when fireforming and resizing....later brass flow may reqire turning again and then you will get more cleanup cutting all around the neck....this is the way I understand it and works for me...good luck and good shooting!!
Posts: 687 | Location: Jackson/Tenn/Madison | Registered: 07 March 2001
Follow the instructions with respect to lubrication when you are turning necks...try and stay as smooth as you can and remember you want to back out the cutter at the same speed etc that you went in at.
Posts: 4360 | Location: Sunny Southern California | Registered: 22 May 2002
Sounds like you're doing fine--BUT--I've never had brass that the cutter didn't get something off of. That must be made to awful poor dimensions. Let us know if you think it made a difference in your gun.
Lake City brass, fired maybe three times. All the brass is Lake City, but the headstamps are different years. The "no cut" brass is getting light "scratches" . . . Not like it's not close to the spec of the other brass.
I could cut maybe 0.001" deeper and get some shaving off all the brass, but this is a new process for me. Right now I'm turning .223 Rem. with the intent of fire forming for Ack. Imp. in a Rem. 700 PSS -- that's getting rechambered as we speak.
Lots of load development, brass prep for me down the road.
