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I recieved a work bench for christmas and it has a piece of sheet steel on top of the wood. Is it ok to use for a reloading bench or do I have to remove the sheet steel. | ||
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One of Us |
I would ground the bench, especially the top and grab a good anti-static rubber mat. Static electricity may cause problems that you really don't want!!!!!!!!! Smedley ______________________ Smedley  ______________________ From Audacity of Hope: 'I will stand with the Muslims should the political winds shift in an ugly direction.' B.H.Obullshitter ------------------------------------ "Socialism is a philosophy of failure, the creed of ignorance, and the gospel of envy, its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery" Winston Churchill ------------------------------------ "..it does not require a majority to prevail, but rather an irate, tireless minority keen to set brush fires in people's minds.." Samuel Adams ------------------------------------ Facts are immaterial to liberals. Twisted perceptions however are invaluable. ------------------------------------ We Americans were tired of being thought of as dumb, by the rest of the world. So we went to the polls in November 2008 and removed all doubt.....let's not do it again in 2012 please. | |||
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must be removed... SPARKS are your main concern, then static, then rust/electrolytic decomposition of your press a distant 3rd. remember, all your reloading dies are either cast iron, cast steel, or tool steel... slide, spark, bang! jeffe opinions vary band of bubbas and STC hunting Club Information on Ammoguide about the416AR, 458AR, 470AR, 500AR What is an AR round? Case Drawings 416-458-470AR and 500AR. 476AR, http://www.weaponsmith.com | |||
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Actually, I don't think I would remove it but add another layer over the top..depending how thick/rigid the present worktop is it could be anything from a 1/4" sheet of ply to a kitchen counter top...That latter makes a very acceptable looking but practical top if the bench is going to be in the house.. Regards, Pete | |||
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I guess Jeffeosso and Pete E are saying the same thing kind of....don't want metal on the top, I have read of some other fellows doing it, and it always gave me the chills... I like the idea of a top on top of the top--is that redundant-- I have a friend who covered his wood table top cause it wasn't smooth enough for his tastes, he got a sheet of real linoleum and glued it on with contact cement--beautiful and functional! Good Luck --Don | |||
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I'm sorry I forgot to mention that The bench top has an inch and a half piece of particle board underneath. I decided to cover the top with an extra piece of formica that I had laying around. Thanks for all the tips guys. | |||
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| One of Us |
Static electricity is of much less concern with a metal benchtop than with formica or other non-conductive plastic types. Wood is a good enough conductor to dissipate static charges easily, and does not have the sparking problem (from impact with other metal objects) that steel would have. However, either use it bare, or with shelac or a penetrating oil finish, because urethane and other synthetic finishes have the same static problems that formica has. Andy Andy Pray, Vote, Shoot, Reload. | |||
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MDF (medium density fiberboard) is a good choice for a top material. My reloading bench is an old draftsman's table I rescued from the flood. The big wide drawer is nice too. Built a top cabinet from plans from the national reloading sports association (???) to sit on it. Works great, but I really don't have enough depth. Need to slide the cabinet to the rear to leave more work room. If the MDF top ever gets too dinged up and dirty, just go to the lumber yard and buy a "new" top. The stuff is heavy too-about 100 lbs for a 4X8 sheet, so it adds stability. An old pilot, not a bold pilot, aka "the pig murdering fool" | |||
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