Ok, now you guys have went and done it. Got me all into this crap and my wife is pissed!!

Anyhow, now i am wanting to do my 300 win mag. Remington 700 BDL.

Here is my list of Goodies i went and bought today. Please let me know of any suggestions and tweaks to perform from all you great Minds!

RCBS 300 win mag 2 die set
RCBS #4 shell holder
Lyman Turbo Twin Tumbler
Lyman Turbo Media (Walnut Shell)
IMR 4350 powder
Nosler Partition 30 caliber/ 180 grain bullets
CCI BR-2 Large Rifle primers? (suggested by the dealer)??
#5 Lee Auto Prime Shell Holder
RCBS Rangemaster 750 digital scale

I do have a digital and gauge caliper

Hornady reloading book and one other reloading book(paper back)

Anything else i might be missing?

Now, I know some of you have many years of experience and suggestions for this 300 win mag. So spit it out fellas, I'm all ears.

Powder measure
Powder trickler
Primer pocket cleaner
Case mouth beveling tool

and a nice piece of jewelry for the wife.

i guess i left those things out. I do have a powder measurer
powder trickler
debur and chamferring tool
and case trimmer Redding model 1400
and primer pocket cleaner
and lube pad and lube


The part i am unsure about is how to lube the neck?

hmm, guess i did something wrong

i put in the resizer dye, raised press all the way up, lowered the dye till it touched the shell holder, lubed the case, not the shoulder, lubed the inside of the neck put case in ran it up and i have dents in the top of the case, below the shoulder. What did i do wrong?

You did what most new reloaders do.....too much lube. Just a light film around the case body below the shoulder--none on the shoulder or outside of the neck. Light film inside the case mouth so the expander slides through!!

I LIGHTLY lube the inside of the neck with a Q-tip. That has worked well for me.

The key it to use absolutely the minimum you have to, to keep the case from getting stuck in the die and to not get any on the shoulder as this can cause dents in the shoulder.

Way COOL.. wiped off a bit of lube, PRESTO problem solved. Thank You so much for the advice!!

So after i am done with this, do i need to re-tumble to get the lube out of the neck or is there enough in there to hurt anything, i am using the Q-Tip method MThuntr suggested. with very very little lube, cant even see it to tell you the truth.

I like to tumble my case before I do anything and then again after resizing and case trimming. IMO, it makes for a more asthetically pleasing case.

I use a wet heavy duty shop paper towel to wipe down the outside of the case and then I tear off little pieces and plunge then inside the case neck on an undersized nylon brush to wipe out the lube. You could probably find almost anything to hold tension on the paper towel to swab out the case mouth.
I figure one tumble before sizing is enough monkeying around....two tumbles is too much....but everyone has different desires and methods!

I always tumble my cases after resizing. It makes for less mess and I am sure I am not getting any sizing lube in the primers. When you get tired of the kick of the 180gr try 150gr I like the TSX less than .75" groups at 100 yards, but I wish my Stainless Steel Remington 300 win mag 700 BDL liked 150 grain Nosler Partitions 4.5" groups at 100 yards is the best it will do. If you get your to group well at 100 yards be sure to let us know. I did not try the 180 Partitions yet.

By the way did you get the rifle with the factory limb saver recoil pad? It is a real arm saver.

swede44mag,
I did NOT get mine with that, I am a farely big guy (6'3" and weigh 245),(not saying your a wimp lol), but mine really dont seem to bother me that much. Alot of people told me it would, but then again, i have never shot the heck out of the thing either. This reloading may change all that though.
If it does get to where it bothers me, i will definatley be looking for that recoil pad you mentioned.. I am going to the range tomorrow and will definatley let you guys know how it turns out. That is if you can help answer me another question.

I bought this Redding Trimmer, lathe type. Not sure how you adjust it to get it to trim to length??? or do you just turn and check every time?

Hey wtman

Next
Lee Collett Neck Sizer
Redding Body Die
RCBS Match Grade Seater
Lee Factory Crimp Die
Lee Case Length Gauge and trimmer
Stoney Point Comparator
Stoney Point Head and Shoulders Gauge
Chronograph

Throw away:
RCBS Full Length Die
Tumbler
Trimmer



Stick with the 180 gr. My suggestion 180 gr Barnes Triple Shocks with 76 gr RL22 Federal 215M primers

JM$.02

LOL, @ Woods,
You really would like to get me killed by the Ol' lady now wouldnt ya.

ok, so here's where i am at so far. tumbled, lubed, resized, wiped clean, cleaned primer port, trimmed to 2.610 , loaded primer, loaded 5 each 66 grains IMR4350, 67grains IMR4350, and 98.7 grains IMR4350..I know, big jump there but had one of those i feels lucky thoughts. hehe

Now, to load the bullets.. 180 np This should get interesting, never did rifle before at all. Should i Crimp or NO Crimp????

quote:

Originally posted by wtman:

98.7 grains IMR4350..I know, big jump there but had one of those i feels lucky thoughts. hehe

I hope like hell that was a typo!!!!!!

I would not recommend crimping unless you have a Lee Factory Crimp Die.

After you get tired of foolin' around with the 4350 powders, buy yourself a pound of RL-22 and get down to business. Start off in the 72-73 gr. range and work up, as long as you don't have pressure signs. While you're at it, you might want to try some of the Barnes TSX bullets. If you're wanting to dust dome bigger critters, try the 180 grainers.

Bull1

it was a typo, Sorry 68.7 is what i meant.

Ok, RL-22 you say , I've seen that posted elsewhere on the board here in all my searches on this 300 win mag. Back to the store i go i guess, might as well load up 5 of those while i am at it, Range is 11:00 am tomorrow, i will come back with target pictures and results. Thanks for getting me to spend another 18 bucks ..hehe

Hey wtman

I mentioned 76 gr RL22 but that is my load that I have worked up to in my gun. Nosler #5 lists 75.5 gr RL22 as the max load so best start below that for your rifle and work up. It also lists RL22 as the "most accurate powder tested".

In my experience with 7 ea. 300 win mags that I load for, the Nosler Partition is not the most accurate. You certainly cannot beat it for field performance though. The Barnes Triple Shocks have been the most accurate.

JM$.02

woods

why are you puttin the new fella' on all that sub stantard crud? just wanted to let you know i'm back. i'll contact you this weekend.

bounty hunter

Woods,
thanks for the advice, i always start with what the book recommends and work my way up as well, on pistol anyway. I just got into reloading but my father-in-law shoots M1-garand matches and he reloads of course, so he definatley gave me all the does and dont's prior to turning me loose on my own. I will never do anything i am unsure about lest i ask first. Pops always told me the ONLY ignorant questions were the ones i didnt ask!!

I can't wait to see how this thing does tomorrow and thank you very much for all the info and suggestions.

if you love your wife, never-never-never crimp a large case or a bolt action. it will cause too much pressure. especially on max loads. i would strongly recomend a magnum rifel primer in cci or federal. i shoot a bolt action in 338 after shooting a 300 win mag an 7 rem mag. i never crimped and got great accuracy out of the calibers- less than half inch groups at 100 yds

quote:

Originally posted by nwwash:
if you love your wife, never-never-never crimp a large case or a bolt action. it will cause too much pressure. especially on max loads.

Some interesting reading on crimping

https://forums.accuratereloading.com/eve/forums/a/tp...1043/m/580101862/p/1

but like I posted this applies to the Lee Factory Crimp Die only. I would not recommend crimping with the FL Die.

back to the drawing board.

The 66 and 67 grains weren't too bad but NOT good either. gave me a 2" spread at 100 yards, pretty gross if you ask me.

Now, the 68.7 grains did give me a 3/4" at 100.

Gonna load a few more of those and head back out and make sure my rifle is dead on at 50 yards with factory ammo first. Been a while since i shot this rifle and not sure if its dead on first of all. it was a little windy too and colder than i wanted it to be. 48 degrees that day and was suppose to be 68.

Stay tuned for more fun with the new guy WTMAN.

wtman, .75" at 100 yards with a 300 Win Mag is fine accuracy. Don't let anybody fool ya. You can probably tweak and do a little better, but if you can shoot that load to 3/4 day in and day out, that's damn good!

I think your taking things in a good logical progression, and you are on track with your planning.

I will take a load that does well, and shoot several groups of the same load at different bulls in whatever quantity is suiting me that day, i.e. 5 three shot groups, or 4 five shot groups or whatever. Looking at the averages of those groups really helps discern which load is really good!

Just for some other info, opposite from some of the other members who posted, Reloader did well for me in 300 Win Mag, but my best loads are always with IMR 4350. I always have used Large Rifle Magnum primers, mostly Winchester or CCI.

One little accessory that is really nice, and cheap--is the satern powder funnels. They are caliber specific and sit perfectly on top of your case. They have them at Sinclair and Midway, I've got one (or two) for every caliber I load. Also take a try with Imperial Die Wax for lube, you rub it on with your fingers, and off with a towel--paper or otherwise. It is actually very neat, and like Brill Cream, a little dab will do ya.

Good Shooting--Don

Wtman

You are doing pretty well .75 will bring the meat home. I'd say that is fine accuracy in a 300 Win. You might want to play with a little RL 22 you'll get about the same velocity. But it will fill the case about 98% and theory says it should shoot a little better. Start at 73.0 and work up to a Max of 75.5 180 Gr bullet load. If you are getting groups like that with a Nosler partition that is indeed good.

I've had superb luck with 180gr Nosler Partitions and RL-22 in 300 Win Mags. I had one that was maxed out at 75.0grs and 8-10 others that have shot 77.0grs with the bullet seated close to the lands.
Those who say Nosler Partitions aren't that accurate might want to try a little more load developement they can be as accurate as any. I've had them shoot 1/4 to 1/2 MOA to 200 and 300yds in a few different rifles............DJ

quote:

Originally posted by woods:

quote:

Originally posted by nwwash:
if you love your wife, never-never-never crimp a large case or a bolt action. it will cause too much pressure. especially on max loads.

Some interesting reading on crimping

https://forums.accuratereloading.com/eve/forums/a/tp...1043/m/580101862/p/1

but like I posted this applies to the Lee Factory Crimp Die only. I would not recommend crimping with the FL Die.

For a target or range load, not crimping could be OK. But for a hunting load...especially in calibers like the 300WinMag that fight-back a lot (recoil) and with some extra round in the magazine...GO CRIMP!!!! I know for sure.

Don't be surprised if some rounds refuse to chamber if you don't crimp or if the bullets are going out. Neck tension alone is not enough.

Gustavo,
How much crimp are we talking about, when i was doing this shooting, i was only chambering 1 round at a time with a couple minutes between shots. One issue i do have is i am full length resizing, and using a digital and dial caliper, i am measureing from the tip of my bullet to the primer and setting them at 3.335 and 3.340, no matter which setting, for some reason some of the rounds are difficult to get the bolt to close down on, once it does close, ( and i'm not beating on it by no means) it will close easily when i eject it and put it right back in. I notice on the very tip of the bullet small gouges, like threaded gouges, not deep at all but i can see them. Any idea what this is and whats causing it?

I just had a friend stop by that bought some h4831 powder and said he wanted h4831sc. I was wondering if i could use this in my 300 win mag and push 165 grainers with it?

IMR 4350, 4831 and RL 22 will probably give you some of the best MV's you can get with the 165.

what would a man start with using the h4831 powder, he's giving me a pound of this so thought i might load a couple, my books dont show the h4831 behind a 165 grain pill (Sierra 165 gr spitzer boat tail is what the bullets are).

Wtman

Caution

This load is from Hornady Vol. II it's a hot load and you may not reach Max without signs of pressure. So work up to Max very carefully. Start at 75.0 Gr of H4831 slowly working to a Max of 79.0 Gr. Your velocity will be over 3200 fps. I would suggest that you load a couple at each increment and only go up .2 or .3 grains at a time.

Jay Johnson,
Thank you very much for the info. No problem starting low for me. I appreciate your help and will let you know how they turn out.

Your welcome. Just take a few days to do that testing we all don't want you to enjoy the 300 Win too much.

Your friend did you a favor when he gave you the H-4831 when he mistakenly bought it instead of the H-4831sc. Their the same powder and he could have saved himself a trip to the store. However I will say that some people feel that the smaller grained SC may cause less erosion of the barrel. I've not yet seen that proven. But H-4831 is a very good slow burning powder and I believe it's not affected by temperature as much as other powders.


DO NOT interchange IMR-4831 with H-4831. IMR is hotter and can cause problems if loaded to H-4831 specs. Reloading books now a days show both powders and of course now Hodgdons ownes IMR, but the powders are different.

quote:

I just had a friend stop by that bought some h4831 powder and said he wanted h4831sc. I was wondering if i could use this in my 300 win mag and push 165 grainers with it?

wtman, H4831 is the most accurate powder out of my 300 Win Mag w/ 180s, 190s, and 200s. It performed the best for me out of IMR4350, IMR 7828, R22, & H4831.

I like 73 grns under 190 MKs just short of the lands or 73-74 grns under 180 HDY HPBTs just short of the lands. Those two combos produce sub 1/2" groups in this rifle. (These were Max loads in said rifle, alittle below book max but, max in this rifle)

Give the H4831 a try w/ those 180 Partitions, you may like what you see.

Good Luck

Reloader

sounds like you are loading in the lands thats whats causing the grooves on youre bullit

Mike61,
or whomever can answer, so if i am hitting the lands, (which i dont even know what they are, lol) does that mean i need to set the bullet in a little farther. How do you know, if you are .005 or more or less off the lands in your weapon?

the Lands are the the oppisite of the grooves it is the rifleing in the barrel.you might want to seat youre bullet a little deeper. the distance that you seat the bullet from the lands all depends on what youre gun likes.
but if the bolt is hard to close you might want to back it down. there is a great thread on distance to the lands some place on this forum. but i dont have time to look right now can some one else help?

Ok, here's what i am playing with this morning, going to the range this afternoon.

Speer spitzer boat tails, 180 grain

Barnes Triple-Shock boat tail 180 grain

Seirra 165 spitzer boat tails,

I have some H4831 extremem powder
some H4350 powder
some IMR 4350 powder.

CCI 250 Magnum primers

thinking of loading 9 of each starting at lowest book reccomendations and working up in 1/2 grain increments till i get 9 of each. when i get back from the range and can figure out how to upload pic of targets, I will do that.

quote:

Originally posted by wtman:
Gustavo,
How much crimp are we talking about, when i was doing this shooting, i was only chambering 1 round at a time with a couple minutes between shots. One issue i do have is i am full length resizing, and using a digital and dial caliper, i am measureing from the tip of my bullet to the primer and setting them at 3.335 and 3.340, no matter which setting, for some reason some of the rounds are difficult to get the bolt to close down on, once it does close, ( and i'm not beating on it by no means) it will close easily when i eject it and put it right back in. I notice on the very tip of the bullet small gouges, like threaded gouges, not deep at all but i can see them. Any idea what this is and whats causing it?

I crimp my hunting loads, invariably witha Lee Factory Crimp die, and we can say tight enough in order to avoid any problem eith recoil. Accuracy hasn't suffered.

With Full resizing seems strange that you are experiencing headspace or other problem that could prevent easy chambering.

Have you check the case dimensions before and after the sizing op? The RCBS Precision Mic is a very good tool to control the sizing operation and to get just enough of it, at least to ensure a proper chambering. On the other hand, ALL of my hunting ammo is FULL sized.

The OAL you mentioned is OK, no problem there. Which rifle do you have?