Ok Guys, I took your collective advise and splashed out on a Foster Co-Ax press. It finally arrived the other day, and having set it up and loaded the first few rounds, I have to admit: it is indeed a slick machine!

Benefitting from another advice from you guys, I used Lee Collet (and Foster Ultra Seating) dies. I managed to load some .223 Rem with what seems like little runout (.001" - .003" - measured on the middle of the bullet with a Sinclair Concentricity Gauge). Is this OK, or should I do better??

One thing I DISLIKE about the Co-Ax is changing the case holding jaws around. This is a pain in the posterior! In particular since there are little springs involved, and guess what springs tend to do when you have to mess around with them: they get lost (SPOIING)! I like the idea of the self-adjusting jaws very much, don't want to go back to regular shell holders, though.

Would it be possible to set up an enclosed unit (i.e. not exposing springs!) such that one could change the jaws around by simply replacing this unit with a different one (containing a different jaw or jaw setting)??? I.e. stay with the jaw system (no regular shellholders), but avoid having to fiddle with springs to go from one jaw to another. One would have to buy 2 of the jaws for each self-contained unit (e.g. one jaw set for for .222 casehead, one set for .30-06 case head) - somewhat more expensive, but much more practical. Has anybody done anything like this??

- mike

Great choice! I use the exact same setup (Co-Ax press, Lee Collet neck dies and Forster Ultra Seater).

BTW, how do you use the Lee die in your Co-Ax? The reason I ask is because when I started using the Lee dies, I just placed the case in the jaws. But I noticed the jaws denting the bottom of the die. So I took a conventional shellholder and placed it between the jaws and put my cases in this shellholder and this system seems to work better. The bottom of the die contacts the shellholder instead of the jaw mechanism and I don't have any denting problems as a result. Of course you have to reposition the collar on the die to account for the additional height of the case sitting in the shellholder instead of the jaws. Also, since the shellholder does not have a rim on it like a cartridge case, it sometimes slips out of the jaws when the case is extracted from the die. However, this has really not been a problem since it happens very infrequently.

Anyway, check the bottom of those Lee dies and see if the jaws are causing any dents. Actually I think it was the part that holds the jaws and not the jaws themselves that was causing the dents. These dents can prevent the die from working properly and so, you may want to try using a shellholder as I have. But then again, since you're loading for a smaller cartridge than I am, the dies are probably smaller also and may not be making contact with the part that causes the dents. Just thought I'd give you something to think about. Good luck!

Great choise!! I know what your saying about the shell holder but it does work great. I think if you try you can use the larger for 223 & 30-06 I did for 222 & 22-250 and had no problem. The more I use mine the more I like it.

First, Forster now has a setup available to enable you to use any conventional shellholder. A waste of one of the neater features of the Coax, in my opinion.

Two, there is a 'system' for changing around the jaws that's pretty simple and you don't lose the springs. I remove the whole thing after removing the screws, and turn it upside down, all together on the bench. Then you can remove the bottom plate first, leaving the springs in the jaws. Then you can do what you will and the springs stay in place.

Thanks All for the feedback. I'll try the option of turning the entire jaw assembly upside down - but if I want to use the other "end" of the same jaw, I don't immediately see how I can avoid fiddling with the springs... I'll check, though.

I'll also check whether the Collet dies get scratched - didn't think about looking. In my mind it would almost be a pity not to use the jaws as intended. Something tells me the jaws are there to "cure" the problem sometimes encountered with normal shell holders (people try to work round it by using o-rings for fastening the shellholders).

I thought I checked whether it was possible to use the .223 cases in the "large" end of the S (standard) jaw, thought it would not work. Will check again.

- mike

You could get a spare jaw top plate, springs, and jaws if you want a quicker changeover, but you'd be out ~$40.

With some practice, you can change over the jaws without sprunging the spring. A couple of extra springs is also a good plan

mike, since the shellholder is held in place by the jaws, it is free to move around and float to the center of the die just like the case would without the shellholder. Therefore, you don't sacrifice any advantage the jaws offer.

If I just put a sheelholder loose in the jaws, I would be worried about wear on the jaws. I'm sure shellholders are harder than the brass that the jaws were designed to hold. Just a thought.

If you want to use shellholders, buy the adapter mentioned above.

RSY

Howdy,

Boy, you sure got a good machine in the Coax press. I really like mine.

One bit of advice, try sizing your brass twice.. size it normally in the collet die, then twist the case 180 degrees in the shell holder jaws, and do it again! I have found that neck run out is virtually zero using that method with Lee Collet dies and a Coax press.

What do you think of the "priming feature" at the top of the press?????

Best wishes to you, and reload safely and accurately.

Coach

I have been using a co-ax press for a month, and I have lost 4 jaw springs

I have stopped using my Rockchucker press.

I have figured out a way to make the jaws quick change from large cases to small cases. I just have to buy an extra set and drill some holes.

quote:

Originally posted by tnekkcc:
I have figured out a way to make the jaws quick change from large cases to small cases. I just have to buy an extra set and drill some holes.

Can you elaborate on your idea? The only idea I could come up with was to have a complete cap, springs, jaws, and wear plate, with captive screws that could be changed out as a unit (mentioned above also).

What in the he// are you guys talking about with the switching around the automatic shellholder???? And losing springs???? I have the second Coax press Clarence Purdie of Gopher Shooter's Supply, the inventor, ever made......He gave it to a retailer friend of his, and told him to see if anybody wanted to buy one. I bought it........That was in 1960! I still have it, and still use it for all my reloading.
I reload, and have reloaded for, dozens of cartridges, from the .22 Hornet, to the .375 H&H Magnum, with that, the 2nd Coax press ever made......... Not once in forty-six years of using that press, have I ever felt the need to reverse the shellholder slides, and in doing so, fight the springs......
Now I admit I have never loaded any 45-70 ammo, or any .50 BMG shells. But for anything else, rimless, rimmed, rebated, small, large, intermediate, the standard shellholder slides work just fine.........Squirt a little spray on them, once in a while, and reload........
What's with all the issues with little springs spronging, and all that???????? Grant.

I REALLY like my Co-Ax, and could not imagine using another single stage press. But I must admit changing the automatic shellholder (e.g. from .223 to .30-06) is not my favourite operation. I have yet to loose a spring, but I'm expecting it to happen any day.... I bought a bunch of extra springs - just in case...

- mike

quote:

Originally posted by BigJakeJ1s:

quote:

Originally posted by tnekkcc:
I have figured out a way to make the jaws quick change from large cases to small cases. I just have to buy an extra set and drill some holes.

Can you elaborate on your idea? The only idea I could come up with was to have a complete cap, springs, jaws, and wear plate, with captive screws that could be changed out as a unit (mentioned above also).

So far it is just an idea, and it requires $50 more parts from Forster for another set of jaws.
http://www.forsterproducts.com/Pages/componentprices.html#Anchor-CO-A-12858

I would drill a counterset for a small flat head screw in the bottom of the wear plate.
028271-046 WEAR PLATE $3.60

That plate appears to be hardened steel, and would have to be counter sunk with a carbide drill.

The screw would be very small, perhaps a 4-40.


That counterset to screw head fit would be loose, so that the parts would locate the way they did before. So that the flat head screw did not fall out, I would crush a few of the thread slightly or use removable Lok-tite. Maybe I can counterset and drill with alignment pins so I can tighten the screw, we will see.

I would drill and tap into the shell holder jaw housing.
028271-037 SHELLHOLDER JAW HOUSING $14.80

With that tiny screw installed, the springs and jaws would be trapped between the housing and wear plate. The screw could be removed for cleaning, but mostly the assembly would stay together as a unit.

I would buy an extra set of jaws.
001231 LOWER SHELLHOLDER JAWS--S(STANDARD)$29.60

028271-039 JAW PRESSURE SPRING (2) ea.$1.44

Instead of the Allen head screws now used to hold down the jaw assembly:
028271-020 10-24 X 5/8 INCH BUTTON HEAD SCREW (4) ea.$1.55

I would instead use a knurled head screw that I would capture with a plastic collar or wrap of wire under the housing, so the screws could not fall out when not on the press.


I would then have two jaw assemblies, that I could drop on the floor, pick up, and install and use in 10 seconds.

I will order the parts and drill bit today, unless I go to the range

Sounds like a great idea! I'll order one once you get the teething problems out of the way...
- mike

oldmodel70
With .223 cases the jaws will barely catch enough to sometimes pull them from the die. I have loaded a couple hundred .223 without flipping the jaws over, but one occasionally will pull over the rim and stick the case in the die, which is a real PITA.

jstevens.....It must be a change in contour from the earliest presses.....Or someone at Forster creating a solution to a problem that did not exist.
I normally load lots of .222 Rem. for my old Sako Rhiimaki, and Remington 700......And don't have any rim pull-over problems.
The other day my oldest son came charging over from his place, feeling real macho, and badly in need of some stress relief.....So we dug the pre-64 .300 Win Mag out of the safe, and he ran three or four boxes of hot 200 grain reloads through it. (OUCH!!!!!!) (He thought it was fun!!!)
Anyway, that evening I thought I would reload the results of his shooting session.....Removed the .222 die from the old Coax, slid in the .300 mag sizer, and went at it.....
Never have had a rim pullover with any size case. 'Course I always use Imperial Sizing Die Wax............Grant.
By the way, when the press first came out, the company advertised the ability of the press to full length resize a completely dry 30-06 case. I tried it.......It worked........

you guys do know that there are 2 sets of jaws available don't you?? the 2nd set fits from 45/70 (I load 470's with this set) and will take down to a 30 carbine on the other side. - Hey oldmodel70 - did you know that it really wasn't clarences idea, but an old machinist instead - sid gerbig actually had the thing working but had it as a horizontal thing instead of a vertical - my fatherinlaw still has one of his. sid and clarence were close hunting buddies for years, clarence took sids press and turned it into the coax of today. 1960 press - you must still have one of the brown ones too.

Horizontal?
Have you noticed that if you take out the decapping stem of a sizing die, take off the spent primer jar, put a long nail in the drop tube and hit it with a hammer, that the co-ax press is an over center toggle action [Luger] single shot firearm?

quote:

Originally posted by Oldmodel70:
By the way, when the press first came out, the company advertised the ability of the press to full length resize a completely dry 30-06 case. I tried it.......It worked........

I had a friend who tried that with my press. He was so impressed that he got a used Co-Ax from ebay. There can be no doubt that the Co-Ax is a smooth press, especially with the high expander button found in Bonanza dies.

oldmodel70
I loaded a couple hundred before mine did it, but it is really a pain. Mine is very old, is a Bonanza, so it isn't anything that has been changed recently.

I have a '78 or so model Bonanza co-ax. I bought it used from a guy that had 3 of them side by side to load pistol. He hit hard times, sold all but one of them!

I've changed the jaws hundreds of times to load .22 hornet, and 45-70, never LOST a spring, dropped a few but found them. I'd better order some springs,,, now that I've said that I'm sure Mr. Murphy is sceaming a surprise for me!

Anybody use the automatic feature of setting the case on the closed jaws, allowing them to snap over the rim?

Yesterday I went to the range with the 44 mag, 270, and 257RAI.

Today I ordered from Forster another set of jaws, wear plate, jaw holder, and 10 springs.

From Enco I ordered knurled 10-24 cap screws and a Carbide 90 degree 5/16" drill.

From work, I scrounged some 4-40 flat head screws.



I think I am also going to make some longer pointy screws in 5/16-24 for adjusting the jaw opening. I want to put knobs on the bottom, that would be faster to adjust than screwdriver slots.

Bought my Co-Ax used at a gun show. Learned how to reload on it, and the primer feature at the top is great to learn on as you can't crush a primer unless you load it in sideways. But I got real tired fast of having to hand load each primer into that little cup on the ram with my fat fingers, so I bought an RCBS APS hand tool, the one with the spring loaded jaws that work like the Co-Ax's.

And it's not just the 30-06 cases that don't stick, I've re-sized 45-70 cases dry without any problems.

Stock jaws on the left, modified on the right.
The only change is a 4-40 threaded hole with countersink on the bottom of the wear plate and a the two 10-24 screws are knurled.

They are fast now, and drop proof.
What do you need?
1) The 10-24 screws are used on the Forster bench primer, and are available at the hardware store.
2) The 90 degree countersink was easy, as none of the metal is hard.
3) The 4-40 flat head screw is at the hardware store.
4) The 4-40 tap and #43 drill you can get from EncoUSA.
I aligned the wear plate and housing for drilling with a .194+" and .195+ pin gauge. You need a set of pin gauges anyway. The .210" is the no go for large rifle primer pockets and the .227" is a mandrel for .223 Rem neck expansion, when held in a bullet puller. Look on page 59 of the Hot Deals
Enco flyer on line url

I have an old Bonanza Coax and have been loading on it for 20+ years and have yet to loose a spring. I bought it used and the guy I got it from had even bought extras. It really is a great press.

I do not use it for primers.

quote:

Originally posted by tnekkcc:

Nifty setup, tnekkcc! I'll bet it also speeds up swithching from S to L size, too!

How about a picture from the bottom too - I'm assuming that is where the screws are positioned holding the entire assembly together?
- mike

The jaw swap is now fast like the die swap.
I can now swap jaws from big to small in 25 seconds with a drop the jaws on the floor step included.

a) The screw holding wear plate to housing makes it so I don't loose springs, even if I drop it on the floor.

b) Having two swappable jaw sets makes it so I don't loose springs.

c) I bought 10 springs.


I now have belt, suspenders, and duck tape.