Does anyone make a kinetic bullet puller for cases such as the 416 Rigby? I would like to buy one.

Wink

I had to get the RCBS collet style bullet puller for my Rockchucker. You got to do the big ones differently, eh? My loading block is for 20 gauge shotgun shells as is the cartridge holder buttstock slip-on.

Cheers!

Barry

Hey Wink, I do not know if anyone makes one, but there are "rumors" that they can cause the Primers to occasionally ignite. Since the Pressure is not confined real well, the Ka-Boom is not a Major Disaster but worth changing underware over.

There is a simple alternative that works real well:

1. Seat the Bullet just a bit farther into the Case to break the "grip" from the Case Neck and or Crimp.
2. Remove the Seating Die.
3. Raise the Cartridge through the top of the Press.
4. Grasp the Bullet with a set of pliers.
5. Lower the Case away from the pliers.

It does not take a lot of Tension on the Pliers to Pull the Bullet once it is Seated slightly deeper. Normally the marks on the Bullet from the pliers are insignificant. If it bothers you, you could wrap the Bullet with Duct Tape and then Pull it.

Best of luck to you.

have a friend, with a lathe, bore the one you got larger.. it will need to be a big lathe, to take the handle for the swing .. or drill it fatter...

easier, though, is to use a collet type

quote:

Originally posted by Hot Core:
Hey Wink, I do not know if anyone makes one, but there are "rumors" that they can cause the Primers to occasionally ignite. Since the Pressure is not confined real well, the Ka-Boom is not a Major Disaster but worth changing underware over.

There is a simple alternative that works real well:

1. Seat the Bullet just a bit farther into the Case to break the "grip" from the Case Neck and or Crimp.
2. Remove the Seating Die.
3. Raise the Cartridge through the top of the Press.
4. Grasp the Bullet with a set of pliers wire cutters .
5. Lower the Case away from the pliers wire cutters .

It does not take a lot of Tension on the Pliers wire cutters to Pull the Bullet once it is Seated slightly deeper. Normally the marks on the Bullet from the pliers wire cutters are insignificant. If it bothers you, you could wrap the Bullet with Duct Tape and then Pull it.

Best of luck to you.

Any (so called) pliers that extends into the threads of the press in such a manuever will damage the threads and require a 7/8-14 tap to repair the threads.....a wire cutters that sits on top of the press works beautifully....

They are often referred to a "pincers"
DO NOT USE A PLIERS or any such tool that causes the pulling force to be extended to the threads.....only to the top of the press.

It is good to see at least one guy here is advocating my bullet pulling experience.....and it's the best tool I've ever used.

here's the tool

quote:

It is good to see at least one guy here is advocating my bullet pulling experience.....and it's the best tool I've ever used.

Thanks for the idea. I have usd plyers but my press doesn't get damaged from them since the threads are so shallow but the point remains! So the 'damage'to the bullet - marks really - don't affect the accuracy? Good to know!

quote:

Originally posted by vapodog:
here's the tool

Mine have red handles, too. They're called "end cutters." Harbor Freight. $5. Use something to pad the bullet. Leather is good, but I use candlewick.

Since there's no rotation involved, they work the same in either hemisphere. But they do work better left-handed.

Try the Hornady "Cam Lock Bullet Puller" item No. 050095 $28.12 is the listed price on the Hornady web site. You will need a collet $10.93 of the correct bullet size to use with this tool.
No damage to the bullet and the powder stays in the case rather than dumping into the head of the kinetic RCBS puller.
The RCBS "Pow'r Pull" Kinetic bullet puller $18.96 will work if the Magnum chuck #9416 $6.95 is installed.

I have both types of pullers mentioned above.
I like the Hornady press mounted puller the best.

quote:

Originally posted by vapodog:
...They are often referred to a "pincers"
DO NOT USE A PLIERS or any such tool that causes the pulling force to be extended to the threads.....only to the top of the press.

It is good to see at least one guy here is advocating my bullet pulling experience.....and it's the best tool I've ever used.

Hey Vapo, I thought you had used the Pincers and was surprised you had not responded.

Then I got to wondering "how" the Pliers could get "into the threads". Ahha, if you use the Pliers in the same way as the Pinchers, they would indeed get into the 7/8-14 threads.

But if you use them Flat(turned 90deg from your Pinchers) the Pliers do right well and mine don't get near the threads.

I really like Win69's mention of the Leather wrap. I have Leather in some of my Vise jaws and it works great.
-----

By the way, I'd guess Bartsche would just grab the Bullets in his Teeth and yank them out. I'll let you all decide if it is the Teeth or Bullets.

quote:

Hey Vapo, I thought you had used the Pincers and was surprised you had not responded.

I have posted photos several times before.

As to the pliers......I never used them sideways as I assumed the serrations of the tool should pull perpendicular to the direction of force.....

Apparantly I was wrong here.....anyway I did use a pliers and allowed them to be pulled into the threads.....It pulled the bullet OK....but forced me to head out to the shop to find a 7/8-14 tap t restore the damaged threads.....

I'm lucky to have a metals shop next door and to have such tools.....anyone else would be up the proverbial creek with damaged threads.

Luckily I am a "farm kid" and helped Dad fix and build barbed wire fences in Minnesota.....and I knew what a pincers was...and I used them.....the best damn bullet puller ever! And yes, I reshoot the slightly scarred bullets with no difficulties at all

As a matter of fact, one would be surprised how badly deformed a bullet can be and still perform admirably. I saw this after seeing how well my .270 bullets performed after the soft points were all mushed to smitherenes after sitting in the clip of my Remington 760 for a few shots....(darn thing kicked like a mule)

Also, the trick of breaking the crimp and in some cases the "seal" by seating them about 1/8" deeper in the seating die can be a real assist for some bullets......especially the militry stuff.

I had 50 rounds of 180 A-Frames in .300 Win mag cases a year ago when I sold my last .300 Win Mag and pulled them gently by pinching in the cannelure of the A-Frames and then reseated them in .30-06 cases.....accuracy didn't change at all....and it was quick and easy.......

One size fits all.....it's a marvelous tool!

quote:

1. Seat the Bullet just a bit farther into the Case to break the "grip" from the Case Neck and or Crimp.
2. Remove the Seating Die.
3. Raise the Cartridge through the top of the Press.
4. Grasp the Bullet with a set of pliers.
5. Lower the Case away from the pliers.

Agree with everything except #1 in this case (pardon the pun). The cases with weak shoulders are likely to buckle before the crimp breaks. Works fine on 30-06 or other shallow-shoulder angled cases most of the time. It will risk buckling a 416 Rigby. FWIW, I use vise-grips sideways with a small piece of leather and a dab of hot glue to hold it temporarily to the jaws. (magic stuff, that hot glue) Set in increments until just "tight enough", it's so repeatable and fast you can go through a lot of rounds and never scratch a bullet. In a pinch some stiff cardboard (as a pad) has worked too but it wears quickly.

Before I figured this out I used a piece of PCV water pipe 24" long with an end cap on one end and made a kinetic puller you bounce on the concrete floor. Pretty easy to fab a screw-together top from PVC fittings that will hold the apropriate shell holder. Worked fine on my 505 Gibbs.

Those pullers you are talking about can be bought from any place that sells hoof trimming equipment. That tool is commonly used to trim horse cow pig and sheep hoof's.