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So Many Questions!
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I am new at reloading and I have a lot of questions. Some are probably very basic, but I just want to make sure of some things before I get started. Ok here I go.
1. I have been picking up a lot of brass at the range. Some of it is mine some of it is not. Will I see a difference in accuracy by mixing the different manufacturers of the brass?

2. How many times can I reload my used brass? When will I know its time to replace?

3. My handgun is a HK USP .45. I have seen lead reloads in some catalogs. Are these ok for target loads? Will lead harm my barrel?

4. Where in the hell can I get some large pistol primers and some large rifle primers? I have everything I need to reload, tooling, powder, bullets, brass, but I cannot find primers anywhere.

Ok this will do for now, I guess that was not as many questions as I thought. Any help would be appreciated.
 
Posts: 7 | Registered: 22 February 2010Reply With Quote
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To your question #1,

You only list one caliber, 45 acp, but since you're asking about rifle primers, I assume you're loading for more than just 45 acp. For the 45 acp, I would say, just load the mixed brass and you'll be fine. I doubt you'd be able to see any difference in accuracy at the distances and types of targets you'd be shooting at.

For rifles though, yes mixed brass can have an accuracy impact, "it depends" though on many factors, so I would say "Maybe".

Question #2:

For 45 acp, I've loaded practice ammo until you almost can't read the headstamps at all. My practice ammo is a bit mild, but I'm sure I have over 10 reloads per on my practice brass.

Rifles are different. Sometimes you'll see a bright ring ahead of the case head. Sometimes the primers will get loose in the primer pocket (you'll feel it when you seat the new primer). Sometimes you'll split a neck.

Usually, I'll set a limit to number of times to load the brass, depending on caliber, and I toss the batch when I hit that number. It varies by caliber.

#3:

Lead will not hurt your barrel in your USP. You can try some in it and just see if your gun likes cast bullets or not. Start with a box and see what happens.

#4

You don't say where you're from, so local help is hard to give? You can try online sources, but you'll get beat up by the hazmat fees to send primers. I'm pretty lucky as I have several good sources of primers around my area.


Si tantum EGO eram dimidium ut bonus ut EGO memor
 
Posts: 1147 | Location: Bismarck, ND | Registered: 31 August 2006Reply With Quote
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Thanks Slim. I am loading .308 and 6.5x55 Sweedish and .223 for my rifles. I am located in Minneapolis MN. I have been to two different Cabelas, Gander Mountain and a few local gun shops and I have had no luck. The hazmat fees do kind of defeat the money saving aspect of reloading when you order primers online. I was just reading some other posts and I noticed a lot of people mentioning a case trimmer. Is this a necessary tool? Thanks again for your help.
 
Posts: 7 | Registered: 22 February 2010Reply With Quote
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What does it mean to "run your brass full length"? Does all fired brass need to be trimmed?
 
Posts: 7 | Registered: 22 February 2010Reply With Quote
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#1 I don't sort brass by headstamp & unless you are capable of shooting sub 2" groups @ 25yds, you probably won't see much diff in accuracy. Just make sure to toss brass of unknown origin. If I can't ID the manuf. I often won't keep that brass.
#2 You can reload 45acp brass u8ntil you lose it. I have some cases that have been reloaded so many times tou can't read the headstamp.
#3 Your USP should have polygon rifling. You shpuld not shoot lead bullets, but many people do, just keep it really clean between sessions of no more than 100rds.
#4 welcome to the hunt for primers. When you find them, buy twice what you think you need. Who knows when they will be available again.


LIFE IS NOT A SPECTATOR'S SPORT!
 
Posts: 7752 | Location: kalif.,usa | Registered: 08 March 2001Reply With Quote
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See this thread - http://forums.accuratereloadin...2511043/m/3651020821

Heaps of information & advise there - You are better off tagging on to that rather than run another one. People may not bother repeating the same information / advise.

I would suggest that you start with the Lyman manual for the first 65 months and stick to just 1 or 2 calibers.....read the post in the above links

Good luck & be safe


"When the wind stops....start rowing. When the wind starts, get the sail up quick."
 
Posts: 11420 | Location: New Zealand | Registered: 02 July 2008Reply With Quote
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Dick,
There is a ton of info in previous threads that will answer all your questions and then some. I have learned an enormous amount on this site.

I am in the eastern suburbs of the TC area. I found a shop in Lake Elmo that generally has primers in stock. However, they will only sell 200 at a crack and the price is rather steep. I generally make a trip to Scheels in Eau Claire, they have been well stocked and the price is decent. I believe there is a reloading shop in the western suburbs, I have never been there and can't remember the name, but they are in the phone book or a quick google search should find them. Might be worth a call.
 
Posts: 10 | Location: Midwest | Registered: 19 January 2010Reply With Quote
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For reloading pieces and parts try Minneapolis and surrounding area craig list keyword reloading. You can also post 'wanted to buy WTB'. It's a good place to get both new and used stuff, but beware of its condition.
 
Posts: 26 | Location: South Park, Colorado | Registered: 29 August 2009Reply With Quote
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Randel

What is the name of the shop in Lake Elmo? I might try to go there this week. Thanks for the tips everyone
 
Posts: 7 | Registered: 22 February 2010Reply With Quote
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PM sent...I think.
 
Posts: 10 | Location: Midwest | Registered: 19 January 2010Reply With Quote
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