I just want to get everyone's opinion. Is it worth molly coating your bullets and/or barrel?
Let the advice flow! Anything is better then nothing. I tried hand coating some before but wasn't sure if I liked it. I need to do some more experimenting.

I had two great days with Moly. The excited day I first tried it and the day I removed it from my bullets. I would not do it again. On the other hand I bet you can find many who swear by it.

quote:

I bet you can find many who swear by it.

I'm not one of them.

Did you not try shooting the stuff or did you just put it on then off? I know dumb thing to ask, but some people do such things! I find it amusing and annoying too.

I had the same experience as Ramrod 340. And, I tried shooting commercially moly'd bullets, spray moly'd bullets, home done moly-tumbled bullets, etc. The whole ball of wax.


My experience was that there were no significant benefits to me, and one more variable to putz with & worry about the consistency of. My bottom line conclusion is that it is likely a great placebo but that is as far as it produced for me.

So I now have some spare boxes of moly'd bullets, two extra tumblers for moly application and a pound or two of extra moly powder, and 1-1/2 remaining cans of moly spray, none of which I will likely ever use again.

Oh yeh, and a big "brand" on my forehead which says "SUCKER".


BTW, if one looks at the number of posts Ramrod340 has here, they may get some idea of his shooting background. I personally would not casually brush aside his comments if I had invited his advice or comments.

Moly Coated Bullets is one of the very best things to come along.

It has saved the barrel on a particular 7mm-08 I have multiple thousands of shots through, for many additional shots. Don't know how many it will handle, but it keeps pushing the re-barrel date farther out. Getting a new barrel is not a big deal - except - this is one of thse barrels that likes anything you put in it. I really don't look forward to changing it.

If you only shoot a small amount, then it might not be worth the effort of learning the small "tricks" associated with Peening the Moly into the Jacket.

I agree with AC that the Spray-On Moly is not worth anything. Back when it first came out I asked a guy to run a Test with it. Spray a Bullet, let it set a few days or bake it on. Seat the Bullet in a Case and then pull the Bullet to see if any Moly remained on the Bullet - it did not.

Do the same thing with properly Peened in Moly and it will be right there, ready to ride the Bore.

Best of luck to you.

I m sorry I did not mean any insults. Everything I read in here dose get noted. Just looks like I decided to tease the wrong guy. Truly Sorry.
Now I do know that Molly is intended to prolong a barrel for someone who shoots a lot. Myself I shoot from 100 to well over 500rds a month. But there are some months I cannot. My reloading room is a old horse stall in a barn that is not heated. Its really hard to reload with a space heater shoved up my backside and its -10* and the blankets are rapped all over the stall. So this time of year I have time to play around with different things.

I want to thank all you guys for posting your opinions and giving me a little more insight on the subject at hand. I bought powdered molly a few months back. I had been hand tumbling them and end up looking like I was messing around with the tin man.

I will soon have a new barrel on my 6.5x55 Swedish Mauser. I cannot wait. So I m looking to see if there is anything I can do to the barrel to keep the ware down. That barrel may see thousands or hundreds of thousands of rounds.

I was also looking to see if anyone was going to bring up casting. After running your bullets through a lube&sizer if tumbling them in molly will help keep the led fouling down? Maybe same for the copper jackets. Will it keep the copper fouling down? If it dose just that would it be worth using?
Thanks again,
James

quote:

Did you not try shooting the stuff or did you just put it on then off? I know dumb thing to ask, but some people do such things! I find it amusing and annoying too

No offense taken on my part.
Yep tried shooting it, factory moly and tumbling. I too looked like the tin man. I saw very little if any velocity gain no accuracy gain. To me it was a lot of work, mess, $$ for no gain that I could see.

As I said I'm sure many use it and are very happy. I will never be one of them.

I didn't see any gains from it either.....

If others did then I'm cheering them on but I can't see spending a dime on the stuff!

Breathing spray moly carried causes brain damage.


Since I started moly with my most accurate rifles, they continue to better than my non moly rifles.

The 17HMR are non moly and 2600 fps and seems to do ok.
My niche for moly is bullets between 2600 and 3600 fps.

Above 3600 fps [Ruger 204], give up hope of thousands or accurate rounds between cleanings.

Shooting bullets without moly is like running an engine without oil.What molly does is let you shoot longer accurately,without cleaning.In calibers such as the 308,one can shoot 60 rds very accurately without cleaning.In big bore rifles,such as the 458wm,one can shoot 6 instead of 3 very accurately.Molly lets you shoot twice as long accurately, than non-coating.

I found this article on Recreational Software Inc.

http://www.shootingsoftware.com/moly.htm


The Latest (perhaps the last) On Moly

We have all seen claims about moly coated bullets and perhaps a few horror stories from shooters who tried them. To a some extent most of the positive claims are true for "certain" shooting applications. The horror stories about corrosion and wrecked barrels may also be true depending on how these products were used.

Bench rest shooters are usually the first to adapt new technology and the first to discard things that do not work. A few years ago some benchrest shooters where shooting moly bullets. Few competitive bench rest shooters are shooting moly bullets (although a few may still be adding moly to their powder). This does not mean moly bullets have no valid applications...just that the benefits are not applicable to all forms of shooting.

Increased Accuracy
An early claim regarding moly coated bullets was increased accuracy. It was surmised that less bore friction would reduce tearing of "fins" on the bullet's base producing less turbulence in flight. To our knowledge this claim has never been substantiated. Even if true, reduced turbulence will only be evident at extreme long ranges. We expect the improved accuracy some shooters see are due to other factors such as moly's affect on the pressure curve, neck tension, etc.

Moly Will Change Your Loads
Switching to moly will change your load performance. Velocity and pressures should decrease when switching to moly coated bullets. This is not bad if you have a chronograph or the time to work up new loads. Because bullet to barrel friction is drastically reduced you can often push bullets faster and still stay within safe pressure limits. Normal loads that crater, flatten or puncture primers "may not" when shooting moly bullets. The increased velocity that "might" be achieved with moly coated bullets is often sufficient to reach a higher velocity "sweet spot" where groups will tighten again, or allow you to fire heavier bullets at acceptable velocities.

Note: The bearing surface of a bullet increases exponentially with bore diameter. Generally the larger the caliber, the greater the difference in acheived velocity for a given powder charge. Smaller/lower pressure calibers often show only 10 to 20 fps velocity reduction while large magnum calibers may show 100 to 150 fps velocity reduction when switching to moly coated bullets.

This also may introduce another issue. As bore friction is reduced, the bullet may accelerate down the bore as if it has lighter mass. This can result in secondary pressure spikes if the powder is barely fast enough for the bullet's rate of acceleration.

Reduced Throat Erosion
It was originally claimed that throat erosion was reduced by using moly bullets. The jury is still out on this one...but most shooters tend to discount this claim. Throat erosion is primarily caused by hot gasses entering the throat behind the bullet, no doubt if the only difference is a moly coated bullet, throat erosion might be reduced because gas pressure and heat is reduced. But most shooters will add powder to regain the velocity lost when switching to moly. This should then produce similar pressure, heat and gas erosion of the throat.

As just one example of the bad information that has been disseminated about Moly, on page 231 of a popular book about long range accuracy the author states "The drop in pressure and velocity is NOT caused by a reduction in barrel friction as proposed by Norma and others. It is caused by the hot propellant gasses vaporizing the coating resulting in a cooling of about 400 degrees F." The author says he is "certain" about this because of "sophisticated internal ballistics code"....QuickLoad?

I understand the author's son is a chemist and that may have contributed to a "myopic" conclusion. If they had access to good pressure testing equipment we doubt they fully grasped the limitations of the mathematical algorithms used for the analysis or all of the issues affecting pressure. Increase pressure on a gas and it's temperature increases, reduce pressure in the chamber and the temperature will be lower. His own tests indicated pressures dropped from 54,000 psi to 47,000! This amount of pressure change can be produced with bare copper bullets by changing seating depth and/or neck tension in most calibers.

Supposed proof is when moly was introduced to powder without coating the bullet, pressures and velocities were still lower! Interestingly no one seems to be able to duplicate this experiment with a reasonable amount of moly (micro grains) and a cold clean uncontaminated barrel. Any detectable reduction in pressure is easily explained by the moly working as a slight burn rate deterrent as would be expected when any inert substance is used in sufficient quantity to coat the powder granules.

Tests conducted with good pressure instrumentation shows it is indeed moly's ability to reduce friction in the cartridge neck, throat and bore that reduces pressure. Norma was correct!

Less Copper Fouling
Perhaps the most legitimate claim about shooting moly is reduced copper fouling but even this claim cannot be universally applied. In quality barrels, copper fouling is often minimal so switching to moly may offer little advantage; especially if you are not inclined to put large numbers of rounds through the barrel before a thorough cleaning. This is what benchresters discovered. A good barrel will easily shoot 10 rounds without copper fouling. One characteristic of moly is that when starting with a cold clean bore it may take 10 to 20 shots for the bore to coat with moly so velocities stabilize. Benchresters concluded when firing only a few rounds the introduction of another variable is a bigger disadvantage than the benefits of using moly coated bullets. If you shoot 50 to 100 rounds at a time and don't mind 10 fouling shots before velocities stabilize you might still consider using moly coated bullets.

Moly will build up in any barrel and is more difficult to remove (see below). If your barrel is prone to copper fouling, moly may help extend the number of shots before groups start opening up. However, if you can shoot 25 rounds of bare copper bullets without group sizes increasing there may not be a significant improvement by switching to moly. The bottom line is we have seen barrels that seemed to like moly, some where there was no appreciable difference and some that flat out did not seem to like the stuff.

Less Barrel Heating
I believe a primary benefit to shooting moly coated bullets is one rarely claimed by those selling moly products. In rough barrels that "walk" as they heat, moly seems to provide significant advantage when firing quick repetitive shots. I have a rifle chambered in .223 that is sensitive to heating even though it has a relatively thick production varmint barrel and has been well bedded. I used a thermometer to compare barrel heating and it took 14 moly coated rounds to heat the barrel to the same temperature as 5 copper jacketed rounds. The barrel does not copper foul more than most production barrels, but it is still rougher than I would like. In this rifle group sizes definitely benefit from moly.

Note: The bearing surface of a bullet increases exponentially with bore diameter. The larger the caliber the greater the friction reduction benfit. Smaller calibers often show only slightly less heating when shooting moly bullets. Smooth small caliber barrels may show no benefit at all. The above mentioned rifle has since been fire lapped so it no longer heats as badly. I compared heating again with bare and moly bullets and found only a 10 degree advantage after 15 shots of each...hardly enough to make a difference.

Cleaning Moly
Serious barrel damage can result from moly buildup (caking). All barrels will "cake" with moly but a barrel prone to copper fouling will collect more moly at fewer round intervals. Moly usually builds up "rings" at certain points in the bore. If the build up becomes sufficiently severe bullets fired through the restriction will expand the bore at these ring points. This is why some highpower shooters have wrecked barrels after more than 100 rounds.

A traditional measure of barrel smoothness and acceptable copper fouling is the ability to shoot at least 10 to 15 shots before a patch wet with Sweets turns green from jacket material embedded in the bore. If after a single shot there is indication of copper fouling, you should break in the barrel before shooting moly bullets. When copper fouling is minimal your bore should resist excessive moly caking but it will still need to be properly cleaned. MOLY IS NOT A WAY TO AVOID CLEANING YOUR RIFLE. (For more info. On the subject of copper fouling and shooting in barrels click here.)
I have tried several moly cleaning methods and settled on the one recommended by Walt Berger. Shooter's Choice, Hoppe's No. 9 or hot water and dishwasher detergent gel as some suggest simply does not work and may actually promote corrosion. Berger recommends using Kano Kroil penetrating oil and USP Bore Paste (similar to JB) at least every 80 to 100 shots (shorter intervals in guns prone to copper fouling). Their instructions are to run two patches wet with Kroil through the bore, a dry patch, a patch of USP Bore Paste, two patches of Kroil and a final dry patch. When running the bore paste through the bore they also suggest short 2 inch strokes. This method seems to clean caking out of the gun and smoothes the bore nicely without removing all the moly. You can purchase Kroil directly from the manufacturer at (615) 833-4101. USP's phone number is (412) 621-2130.

If you have a rifle that can shoot 25 rounds before is becomes copper fouled it may be easier to remove the copper with conventional solutions then trying to remove moly using the Berger prescribed method.

Corrosion
We have not seen any corrosion problems when using moly but we also do not store rifles without cleaning them thoroughly. There have been numerous reports of M1 shooters who failed to clean their gas tubes after shooting moly bullets only to discover nasty rust developing. If you shoot moly, make sure you clean every part of a semi auto's mechanism where powder and bore residue can collect. Most moly products do contain trace sulfides which can become acidic and promote corrosion in humid environs.

THE BOTTOM LINE
It is safe to discard most of the "hype" regarding extended barrel life, ease of cleaning, etc. and focus instead on performance. Nearly all competitive shooters have discarded Moly as a bad idea that just introduced another variable to control. Copper is not difficult to remove with proper solvents and cleaning tools. If you see no substantial accuracy improvement with moly bullets then you may have no reason to use them.

On the other hand if you have a barrel that simply will not shoot well no matter what you try; or it "walks" badly as it heats, then moly coated bullets may be worth a try. Some rifles seem to prefer moly, others show no substantial difference. We have concluded there is a direct relationship between the quality of a barrel and the benefits accrued from using moly. Generally the better the barrel, the fewer benefits. Good barrels foul less, do not change shape as they heat and are easy to clean.



A Proper Moly Coating
There was a rush to sell moly coating kits before the technology was fully researched. We were told the first Neco kits did not emphasize some important information. YOU MUST FIRST REMOVE THE BULLET SWAGING LUBE. Failure to do so will promote caking, cause horrible cleaning problems and may even ruin a barrel. Always wash the bullets first. Most shooters use common dishwasher detergent then let the bullets dry. Some wash their bullets with mineral spirits or acetone to reduce the dry time.
Moly experts now realize the lube prevents a proper bullet coating and allows too much moly stick to the bullet. A good coating will be smooth and silvery not dark or nearly black with a dimpled surface. If the bullets are dark they have too much moly on them and will cake badly. Even worse, the lube and moly mix carbonizes under heat and pressure and sticks in the bore as a much harder material. Depending on the caliber and lube used to make the bullets the "carbonized" compound can be REAL difficult to remove.

Midway Moly Kit
I checked out several moly coating kits before deciding to try the Midway system. I already had one of their tumblers so the price was attractive (only $30 with 8 oz. of moly & two more bowls). It is so simple. Just wash your bullets in dish soap to remove any lubricant, spread them out on a towel to dry (I speed it up with a hair dryer), then dump them into the tumbler with 1/8 tsp. of moly. In about an hour and a half several pounds of bullets are perfectly coated and ready to go! No sifting, no excess moly powder all over the bench and best of all each batch ends up costing pennies.
There is something about the aggressiveness of the Midway tumbler that allows the system to work without steel shot required in the Neco system. I tried the same method in my old Ultravibe and Lyman tumblers but results were poor after many hours. Apparently that is why steel balls are included in the more expensive Neco system. As for Neco's waxing step, reports are that it adds to fouling, requires more shots to molycoat a clean bore, and still does not prevent the moly from rubbing off on fingers. Most shooters I talked with don't use the waxing step, so why pay for it! Compared to the original Neco system, Midway's provides better, quicker, cleaner results at significantly less cost.

Midway recommends using a different bowl for exposed lead, hence the two bowls in their kit. Nearly all the moly is gone after each batch but the bowl gets contaminated from exposed lead. Cleaning a bowl is a snap. Just dump in some corn cob media and a couple tablespoons of No.9 and let it run for a while. Now try that with Neco's!

A recent article in Varmint Hunter magazine insists the Neco system is the only one to have and everyone else's is a poor imitation. The author must like getting moly all over his loading bench when separating shot from bullets, buying/changing shot to keep the system from getting contaminated and the high price.

Coating Exposed Lead & Jacket Bullets At The Same Time
Mike Whitrock emailed us the following tips for using the Midway Moly Kit.

1) You can coat both exposed lead and jacketed bullets at the same time and get faster & more uniform coatings as follows. Get 4 or 5 specimen jars with screw on lids from the local Drug Store (about $3.65 each). You will also need about 1lb. of Steel Shot. Place 25 Bullets, 1 table spoon of shot & 1 to 2 dip's of Moly in each cup. Screw on the lid "tight" and place the jars in the bowl & add corn cob media and tumble for 30 min.'s.

This might also allow the Midway moly compound to work in other brands of vibrating tumblers, or allow you to coat bullets while tumbling brass!

Out Standing Info! THANKS! A lot to read but very worth the knowledge!

I m problem going to skip the Molly.
But I m wondering about cast bullets. Sense there is not the same pressures as copper. I shoot a lot of cast. It dose not sound like it will.
Thanks
James

quote:

Originally posted by James Kain:
...I bought powdered molly a few months back. I had been hand tumbling them and end up looking like I was messing around with the tin man.

I will soon have a new barrel on my 6.5x55 Swedish Mauser. I cannot wait. So I m looking to see if there is anything I can do to the barrel to keep the ware down. That barrel may see thousands or hundreds of thousands of rounds...

Hey James, I must missed the supposed insults. Most of us have pretty tough skin here(except Vapo ) and understand when someone is intending to make a clinton out of themselves.

I was going to suggest just PMing me about the Moly Coating Process, but then the other folks who are interested would miss out on the Tricks.

If you want to make a small batch to see if we can cure your problems, I'll be glad to help you through it.

If that is the situation, get a box of Bullets or 2-3 of different diameters and "wash" them in Hot water with "Dawn" diswashing liquid. If you do not have Dawn, go buy a bottle of the Original Dawn. Don't need the fancy new stuff, but it needs to be Dawn. Also get some Rubber Gloves so you DO NOT touch the Bullets with your bare hands at any time.

Let then soak for 10min in a big pot with the Hot water and Dawn(couple of squirts`ll do). Stir the Bullets and let sit. Do that 3 times. Rinse with them in a clean plastic Collander using more Hot water.

Lay them out on a towel in the sun to dry. In Maine this time of year that could be a problem. Dry in front of a Heater Vent and change the towel after 20min or so. All the moisture needs to be off the bullets.

That should be enough to get you going if you are interested. DO NOT touch the Bullets with your bare hands.
-----

Years ago, Norma was running a Life Test on some kind of HOT 6.5mm. They had over 9000 rounds through the barrel, "with no appreciable loss of accuracy", before their web link disappeared. Mr. Walt Berger also had a running Talley in Precision Shooting about the number of rounds through Mrs. Berger's rifle and had either the exact same words, or something very similar. I'm not sure what the count was when I quit taking PS, but it could have been around 5000.

One additional thing Moly will do is Increase the Ballistic Coefficient on a Bullet about 5% if that is of interest to you.

Moly is good stuff for sure.

quote:

Most of us have pretty tough skin here(except Vapo Big Grin) and understand when someone is intending to make a clinton out of themselves.

Those of us with extremely thin skin want to know if the warnings about not touching it with your hands is worth the gains.....assuming there are some.

I don't understand coating a bullet with a heavy metal toxic substance to shoot at an animal that one may take home to put in the freezer..... but then I'm not much good with a slingshot either.....Hey Hot Core.....do you also use Moly coated rocks in that thing?

Well soon as I get my Mauser back I will have a new barrel on it. So by the sounds of it molly is good for guns that need a little TLC. Although if I decide to start reloading again for my 303-Brit Endfield SMLE I would say it may be a good idea.

as far as I know molly is not toxic! Its so we don't put our oils from our skin on the bullets so when adding the molly we do not create uneven layers of molly.

quote:

as far as I know molly is not toxic!

I just did a bit of "Google" research and your comment is confirmed....it isn't toxic and to such a degree that it might be it's extremely small and fully recoverable.

I was under the impression that it was a toxic metal and I WAS WRONG and stand corrected.

Thank you
Vapo

God I d just hope it wasn't! When I was in the army i have been completely covered in molly grease fixing and servicing the feeder mech for the 20MM Chain Gun(main gun) on the Bradly Fighting Vehicle.

Man I tell you never need to change that grease! You can have it in the gear boxes forever. It just may need to be moved around a little bit. It will and dose work its way off moving parts. But that is quite a few years later.

Knowing how well molly works after that when I started casting Lyman makes a molly cast bullet lube so I bought it. I really have no complaints. It cleans up easy too. I m not sure about the other cast grease lubes but this stuff has a nice little puff of white smoke and a very distinctive smell. The same smell when someone screwed up the gear boxes I used to work on for the 20MM Chain Gun.

Alberta Canuck,

I'd happily help you dispose of that pound or two the terrible, dangerous moly! Maybe even the spray-on goop (never used it before).

FWIW, I'm an NRA Highpower and Palma shooter and moly helps me maintain accuracy longer than bare bullets. Keeps friction heating down too. I don't use all the "operating room" techniques but I'm careful not to touch the bullets, nor do I wax the finished bullets but it all works out fine for me.

Mark

quote:

Originally posted by redial:
Alberta Canuck,

I'd happily help you dispose of that pound or two the terrible, dangerous moly! Maybe even the spray-on goop (never used it before).

FWIW, I'm an NRA Highpower and Palma shooter and moly helps me maintain accuracy longer than bare bullets. Keeps friction heating down too. I don't use all the "operating room" techniques but I'm careful not to touch the bullets, nor do I wax the finished bullets but it all works out fine for me.

Mark

Well, I'm not one of those shooters who disposes of much of anything by way of components once he has acquired it, so I'll pass on that offer. Someday I may end up trading it as part of a deal for something I actually want or need.

I also used to be a national Palma team member, but that was in between moly fads (there was one in the late '20's-30's too). And although some successful benchresters also still use it, there are any number of them who tried it quite seriously, then went back to plain bullets. (The placebo effect eventually wears off of most folks?)

Anyway, thnks for the offer, but it's best you just help keep the commercial suppliers from the bankruptcy courts a little while longer.

Best wishes and a Happy New Year.

AC

quote:

Originally posted by vapodog:
...want to know if the warnings about not touching it with your hands is worth the gains.....assuming there are some.

Hey Vapo, It depends on what you are trying to accomplish. The reason a person should not touch the Bullet is to prevent Oils, Salts, Aciidc stuff, Boogers(for the doughnut-eaters) and Powdered Sugar(also doughnut-eaters) from getting onto the Jacket. If that happens, or if they have not been washed in Dawn, you end up with the Bullets appearance having a Spotty Coating, Orange Peel, Alligator Skin or looking like your Hero Morty.

Doubt it would work on the Ring-Tailed Politically Correct Bullets(PCBs), because the BBs couldn't get between the Rings to Peen the Moly into the Jacket. Since I don't need any stinkin' PCBs, that is of no consequence to me.

For a person that does not intend to shoot a rifle very much, then it might not be worth the effort for them. For someone who does not Weight Sort Cases, it is not going to be worth the effort for them. And for people who love getting a new Barrel installed, because accuracy has finally gone all to obammer, it is definitely not for them. Otherwise, all normal Shooters should be using it.

quote:

...I'm not much good with a slingshot either.....Hey Hot Core.....do you also use Moly coated rocks in that thing?

Oh my gosh, hadn't even crossed my mind.

quote:

Originally posted by Hot Core:
looking like your Hero Morty.

quote:

all normal Shooters should be using it.

quote:

Otherwise, all normal Shooters should be using it

Darn I thought I was normal. I shoot several 1000 rds a year. Stopped weight sorting my cases over the last 35 years. Why I would rather be shooting that doing case prep. With Norma brase I never really saw a differnce in group size. My poor old MKX 22-250 has around 10,000 rds through the factory barrel. I keep saying I'll rebarrel when it will no longer shoot submoa.

I jumped through all the hoops bought all the new loading toys. I documented all my efforts and results over the years. Now I find a good load and shoot it. Hey if my loads are now 3/4" vs 5/8" I can live with it. I would just rather be shooting than spending hrs trying to reduce the group size that last little bit. If an 1/8" difference means I'll miss that I need to get closer.

For all the "Normal" shooters that want to spend time doing all the case and load prep go for it. I'm just abnormal.

A 22-250 or a 22 is like an air rifle and does not have any say in the matter. I can't stand it when anyone is shooting a 22 whatever at the range.I know I won't get any time alone to fire offhand shots.There is a sign up at my range that says 22,50 rds max that no one respects.

"A 22-250 or a 22 is like an air rifle and does not have any say in the matter. I can't stand it when anyone is shooting a 22 whatever at the range.I know I won't get any time alone to fire offhand shots.There is a sign up at my range that says 22,50 rds max that no one respects."

???

Hey Tyler I waived as I went through your hometown on the 26th.

Was it good ole Auxvasse?

Or Amarillo?

Or?

quote:

Was it good ole Auxvasse?

Are you not in Auxvasse any longer? Yep went through on the way to Grafs

Is there anyplace that will Moly coat bullets for a fee. I only have 1 gun that (long story) I use molly in. And I hate to get the set up for 1 gun... Thanks Maddog

quote:

Originally posted by MADDOG:
Is there anyplace that will Moly coat bullets for a fee. I only have 1 gun that (long story) I use molly in. And I hate to get the set up for 1 gun... Thanks Maddog

Talk to John at the gunstop.....he used to do it.

He also has a good supply of bullets on hand.

gunstop

Yep I'm in Auxvasse still. Any good deals at Grafs shop?

Holly crap! I never thought this topic would fire off like this! LOVE IT GREAT INFO! HA! Brings alot to light!

I m still up in the air if I m going to be doing it or not! There are just so many things to look at.

Myself I trim my brass, clear the primer pocket in/out of cass remove burs, trickle powder, and seat bullets. Of corse thats kinda short and chopped up.
Symple but doing all brass by hand with out any automations is VERY SLOW!
when doing 80+ rds at a time I do brass one night and powder&bullets the next night.

quote:

Originally posted by ramrod340:
...For all the "Normal" shooters that want to spend time doing all the case and load prep go for it. I'm just abnormal.

Hey Paul, I've ALWAYS considered myself normal, that is why I do all the extra stuff.
-----

Hey James, You are well on the way to becoming "normal" with the stuff you are doing.

Now..... as for Vapo...normal might be a l-o-n-g stretch of the word.

I take back what I said earlier.Molly coated bullets are great in increasing barrel life and increasing cleaning intervals in target rifles but if extreme accuarcy is the goal,then they take second place to uncoated bullets in some of the calibers I tested.

LOL My shell prep time will soon be cut down! I ordered a lyman prep station! That will make life so much easier and FASTER!

Now only if I could get a heated reloading room!

As for molly, I m thinking of maybe just trying it on my cast bullets to help keep leading down. Its all about trial and error.

Hey James, I seem to remember one of the Cast Bullet suppliers who had a Moly based Lube for the Sizer. May have been Lyman.

I've not tried Moly on Lead Bullets, so I don't have any first-hand experience there.

Funny thing is I am using the stuff currently and love it. I thinking about trying Alox next.

But I have the powder molly. So i was thinking about adding that to the already lubed and sized bullets. As I said this is my time of year to play and experiment.

Hey James, That might do fine "if" you prep the Bore with it too.

I take a tight Paper Patch, rub a small bit of Moly Grease on it and make a few passes through the Bore. Then once the Paper Patch is well Formed to the Bore size, I sprinkle a bit of loose Moly Powder atop the Grease and give it a couple more passes through the Bore.

That gets the Moly from one end of the Bore to the other and I'm ready to begin Shooting or Hunting as the situation may be.

Let us know if it works well for you.