I have two questions concerning primer pockets for those mor knowledgable than myself.
#1-Exactly how clean do I need to get my primer pockets when reloading hunting rounds for factory rifles, and what if any is a "rule of thumb" in doing so.
#2-How often do I need to uniform my primer pockets after I do it for the first time when thay are brand new? and how do you know when its time to do so again?
Greatest of thanks to any one who takes the time to help me out on this.

Big Foot,

This one is very easy to answer.

Just get yourself a primer pocket uniformer from Sinclairs - theer is a link for them on our LINKS page.

It cleans and uniforms at the same time.

Generally, we run the uniformer in after each firing, as we found that brass flows into the primer pocket too. You cannot over do it, as the uniformer has a stop, and will not go in any further.

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saeed@ emirates.net.ae

www.accuratereloading.com

I follow Sinclair's recommendation and perform the uniform/clean procedure every time I load my brass. I use the uniforming tool from Sinclair chucked in my drill press, it's fast and easy. Never any problems. sure-shot

Excellent question, indeed.

When I started reloading as a beginner, cleaning the primer pocket seemed to be the most tedious task of the whole process. I have never tried the Sinclair tool but the Lyman uniformer works great. They only make a small and large uniformer for rifles, though. The pocket is more shallow on handgun cases so I don't uniform those and have never really had to. The best tool I have found to thoroughly clean the pocket is the RCBS brush. It's the only "cleaner only" one that gets into the outside edges where you really need to get the grit out. This is the edge where the primer touches, not in the center near the flash hole. Early on I was constantly failing to clean this area and naturally the primer stuck out past the rim. Accuracy goes out the window when half the primers are sticking out and the other half are flush. Uniformity is the key.

The Redding primer pocket cleaner was the worst I tried. In just 50 cases it would wear the outer edge right off the tool. The Lyman is so-so but fails to get the outer ring of the pocket like the RCBS brush does. I love Redding dies but they let me down on this one. Their nylon brush doesn't clean the inside neck very well either.

My hands hurt after cleaning primer pockets so I bought the Lyman power deburring tool. It's simply a screwdriver that spins at 250 rpm. I can clean primers faster and with far less strain now. Sure beats using the plastic or wooden handles.

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Dave

Big Foot,
I use Sinclair's uniformers on new brass to uniform the pocket depth, then use it to clean out the carbon when doing the reloading case prep.
I also use a deburring tool for the primer pocket hole, which is a 1-time only opeartion. (and a 1-tool fits all deal, too) There's usually a small burr on the inside of the case, where they punch out the primer pocket hole, and deburring it promotes uniform combustion.
Regards, George.

Greatest of thanks to Saeed, Sure-shot, Dave, and George for helping me out with their posts. judging from your conbined input, I will continue to do what I've been doing.
Once again, thanks to all,
Arthur/AKA Bigfoot.

Let me ad my recommendation for the Sinclair tool. It is solid carbide and doesn't wear out at all. Likewise, I chuck it up in my drill press. I consider a drill press to be very useful when processing large batches of brass. I also chuck up a primer hole deburring tool which makes it a little easier for batches of 100+ brass.

Some day I may even invest in a Gracey trimmer although the Wilson case trimmer works very well. As you can no doubt tell, my fondness for gadgets in immense.

Big Foot 15-4E

If you are reloading hunting rounds for factory rifles just buy the Lee Primer pocket cleaner. Dirt cheap and removes the crud from the previous primer.

If you start on the 'most accurate round I can possibly make'route spend your money on a flash hole deburer from Sinclairs then a primer pocket unifier if you want to go the whole hog.

Regards

Ray

I uniform the pocket by hand. I like the idea of a "hand-processed" handload. Wrapped the handle from RCBS tools with tape to make it larger and smoother, also a bit softer. This helps with the hands getting fatigued.

The RCBS and Lyman tool handles are the same threads as cleaning rods. I put one of the handles on a stainless rod extension and use it for cleaning pistol barrels.

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