I am looking at getting a progressive press. Does anyone have any experience with the Hornady progressive. I like the price but would like to know what I would be giving up by not going with the Dillon 650. I mainly plan on using it for 45, 9mm and possibly 223.

I have the LNL AP, and got it several years ago. I was trying to decide between the Dillon and Hornady presses.....so here's my $.02:

I reload .40 S&W, .223, 257R, 25WSSM, 270, 7mm RM, 30-30, 308, 30-06, 300 Ultra Mag, 375 H&H, and 375 Ruger.

I had used the Dillon 550B a number of times with a friend. Let me list the pros and cons of each press from my experience, then and now....

Dillon:

Manually indexed. Pro for long rifle cases and long bullets, con for anything else.

4 station vs 5. Definately nice to have the extra....you can always leave it empty.

Dillon powder measure adjustment is pathetic and not repeatable--trial and error with a bolt and not even a micrometer for reference is unacceptable. There is an aftermarket part for this now...but not from Dillon, IIRC

Calibers each require their own shellplate and retainer button from Dillon. The Hornady shellplates are by case head--so 308, 243, 270, 257R, 30-06 are all the same shellplate. Dillon wants to sell you a separate set for each....

Die setup with any progressive takes some work, because everything has to be just right at the end of the stroke every time. Dillon pictures you setting up each caliber with dies mounted to a removable plate at the top of the press, ideally with a dedicated powder measure. This works, but it is expensive. Hornady has each die adjusted into a locking ring, which is a more flexible and less expensive system.

Hornady's powder measure is substantially more adjustable. The LNL inserts can be set, locked and labeled to be used for a favorite load. I also bought the micrometer rifle metering insert, which should be the standard, IMO. It is repeatable and very useful. My understanding is that the pistol insert is helpful for small cases. My preference for small cases is actually the Lee Autodisk Pro....

Hornady's LNL die system is very solid and also quite flexible. Dies lock in and out fast and positively, which can be a big plus while setting up the powder measure for different length cases.

I should say that I only use my press in a fully progressive mode for pistol reloading. With rifle cases I resize and deprime first, so that I can then trim, camfer, and inspect the cases before loading. (Dillon does actually make die sets and a power trimmer for 223 or 308, but they are quite expensive.)

Because I am usually either loading or resizing, I find the flexibility of 5 stations in the Hornady press very helpful. It lets me add a factory crimp die at the end, or case mouth belling die in the middle if needed.

There is an auto case feeder available from Hornady, if you are looking for one.....I don't remember if the Dillon 650 was the auto one.

Sorry to run on....the Hornady LNL AP has been a good thing and I'd buy one again. They stand behind it too....I chipped an indexing pawl and they sent me another fast and free.

Hope this helps,

Dan

i like my lnl AP ..i have a dillion sdb, and have used dillion 550 and 650... and rcbs piggybacks, ,if that matters.

the products to compare are the lnl AP and dillion 650 based on features..

what i would prefer to be better on my AP
primer seating -- one grain of power can lock the entire press

powder thrower -- NECK BUSHINGS

i've loading from 30 mauser to 500 accrel, with 375 hh and 458 lott for long rounds, in mine...

works great, IF YOU KEEP IT FREE OF POWDER

however, dillons also lockup from powder

Got the lnl. Loaded 200 rounds of 45acp. took about 2.5 hrs. I got a couple little quirks to work out. The primer shuttle sticks in the position where it picks up a primer. I have to manually push it back. It feels like the primer on top of the one being taken is catching in the hole, kinda like trying to pick up 2 primers. I have cleaned, degreased, dry-lubed to no avail. happens about every 3-4 times. have to reach behind the press and jiggle the shuttle, sometimes tap it lightly. Gonna try different primers. The powder measure is awesome. I checked it several times and it always poured 4.7gr. Every time!! The other little glitch is that if I slowly lower the handle the shell plate will not fully lock into the next position and have to manually rotate it about an 1/8 in. Other than those two little problems I love it. I have a couple hundred rounds of 223 im gonna do up this weekend.

I loved my Hdy. L-N-L AP. I had two problems:
1) It wouldn't feed the last primer. Solution was to get the Dillon primer rod. I have been told that Hdy. now includes this.
2) The powder measure bushing would work loose. Solution was to find a bushing with a tighter o-ring. Been told that a simply shim (from an aluminum can) also solves the problem.
Some have found that the primer can be hard to seat fully. A rigid loading press and verifying that the shellplate is not loose worked for me.
All APs have priming problems. The only way not to have a primer problem is to manually place each primer in the priming cup.
I found the Hornady L-N-L priming system to be about the same as the 650 and 1050. I personally liked the previous system where an arm swung out to pick up a primer and them swung back under the sub-plate to prime. This way you can actually see that it has picked up a primer.

Update: I switched from winchester primers to cci primers. out of 200 rounds loaded the primer shuttle only jammed 2 times and only required the slightest coaxing to get it to release. still dealing with the issue of not fully locking into the next detent when the arm is pulled. any suggestions?

Bullshooter, you may try to lube the press, which may help, or you may have to adjust the timing screws. Your press should have came with instructions for adjusting the timing. The (2) timing adjustments can be seen when the ram is in the full upward position at the most rearward part of the linkage. REMEMBER, a little screw adjustment moves it quite a bit, though there is some slack or take-up in the screw and you should feel the tension when you get to the actual movement of things. I had to adjust the timing in my LNL AP shortly after I started using it. Hope this helps you get it going.

Bullshooter, look at your manual on how to adjust the pawls on the press. I had to adjust mine right out of the box a bit and after about 300 rounds a slight bit more. It is definitely finicky about raising or lowering the arm slow though, at least mine is.

For any one with a problem with this or any other press--
call the manufacturer while you are at the press and have them walk you through the problem/solution.
I used a couple of Hornady progressives since the very first model (Pro-Gressive?), and had never needed to adjust a pawl. About 6 years ago, I cracked a pawl, and had to adjust the pawl's setting afterward. Soon after that, I bought a L-N-L and had two presses (1 large primer and 1 small primer). BHO got elected and I found myself bankrupt from my IRAs dropping 60%. I sold my old press to try and get some money.

Thanks for the advice guys. I adjusted the indexing pawls like you said and and now we are smooth sailing. She kicked out 50 rounds in about 20 minutes without a hiccup. probably could have gone faster but I like to look in each shell after the powder is dropped just to make sure its there. I also periodically weigh a charge just to insure the correct weight. The latest problem is that I can load them faster than I can get them shot up. When I bought the press there was a voucher in the box for 500 free bullets from hornady. I ordered the 45cal. 185gr XTP's. should be here tomorrow. I estimate that the next 500rds will cost less than $30 to load. Thanks again for the help guys.

I have loaded several thousand rounds of 9mm, .357 Sig, .38 sp, .45acp on my L&L and think it is a great machine. I have slicked up the primer feeder and seater a bit and built my own adjustable powder measure 'stop' (think they give you one with the new tools). Occasionally, for whatever reason, on depriming a spent primer will hang up the shell plate. If you feel this just stop, raise the ram a bit and rock the plate back and the primer will fall out. Once I didn't catch it and the sticking plate broke the key off the bushing that rotates the plate.
Also get or make a powder check die. This gives you a visual that the powder is at the proper level in the case.
C.G.B.