I have used it on my Hornet loads with excellent success. Anyone else use it for other cartridges?

Everything I can can get it in. Even in my single shots. For reasons too long to type, I like a consistent bullet release on ignition. The two ways to get that are jamming the bullet in the lands which works well with moly-coated bullets or using optimal bullet jump to the lands and crimping consistently.

The only problem with jamming bullets is when you don't pull the trigger and eject the round leaving the bullet jammed in the throat and all the loose powder down in the trigger mechanism.

I use it on my 375 and my 22.250 and have had great results with them.

I got my first one for loading .308 in my L1A1 and love it for reliable feed.

Don't leave home without it!
Pete

quote:

have used it on my Hornet loads with excellent success. Anyone else use it for other cartridges?

yes, most all of mine.

i use it for my 308Win and the difference between crimped and not crimped in most of my loads is about 0.5-1MOA accuracy.

The necks on my 358 Norma hold Nosler,Barnes and Sierras just fine but Swifts seem too be a little slippery and a crimp would be a good idea. Lee doesn't list the Norma does anyone have any suggestions? Jim

Use one on my Hornet, really like it plus it improved accuracy with my cast loads. Also use it on my 6.5 Swede, and, am goin to get one for my 243
John

I use them for my 223,308,762/39 and 06 for auto loading rifles and all my hevier recoiling rifles.

johnch

I use Lee factory crimp dies in every cartridge that I reload for.

Me too.

I use the Lee Crimp Die on my .375 H&H reloads.

The loads are with 300 gr. PMP Round Nose bullets with a cannelure. The resulting ammunition looks good, shoots very consitantly, has great accuracy and I feel adds an increased level of field reliability!

I just bought one and plan to use it the next time I work on some loads.

I use them on just about every cart. I reload for besides 7mm & 270 Weatherby and 300 WSM but, that is just because I haven't bought those yet.

I believe they provide more consistentcy and they certainly don't hurt accuracy, they help accuracy in some rifles.

Good Luck!

Reloader

I use the Lee Crimp dies on my .416 Rem and Rigby, as well as my .257 Wby. I plan to buy more dies because they seem to give better accuracy. Good shooting.

I use the factory crimp on .375 H&H and .416 Rigby. It is the best way to get a good crimp on the Rigby cartridge with little or no case bulge at the shoulder.

I use one for levergun rounds like .375 WCF and .30 WCF.

RSY

I'm new to this. To date I have successfully reloaded and shot 9 .300 win mag rounds. Just what does this die do? Is this helpful for centering the bullet, or is it a neck grip pressure deal? Thanks Chain

I use mine for every caliber I can get them in. It's my most favorite reloading tool!

quote:

Originally posted by chain:
I'm new to this. To date I have successfully reloaded and shot 9 .300 win mag rounds. Just what does this die do? Is this helpful for centering the bullet, or is it a neck grip pressure deal? Thanks Chain

It's "a neck grip pressure deal."

RSY

Is it worth running right out and buying some? Or should one get used to his RCBS dies prior to complicating the issue? Chain

If you need or choose to crimp, it'll actually simplify things for you. In that respect, it's worth having.

RSY

chain,

Chill out and watch this thread......as a novice reloader I think you ought to take a "wait & see" attitude before you run down to the nearest mail order house.....I think you oght to attempt to fully utilize your RCBS Dies initially. The Lee FCD while not a particularly expensive item, can wait.

The Lee Factory Crimp Die is a very efficient and inexpensive Lee die innovation but not applicable in ALL loading situations.

They are made to crimp the catridge case into the bullet. This works with a bullet that is made to be crimped, normally by means of a cannelure or a ridge/groove in the bullet. If you attempt to crimp bullets that are not made for this purpose you'll be headed down the wrong path.....net, not all bullets are made the same, not all bullets require crimping.

Secondly and even more important is case length. If you are trimming cases (Lee also has a neat innovative tool for each specific cartridge to assist) and have standardized case lengths then crimping results will be reflected in cases & bullets in a catridge of equal and consistant length - critical to solid performing self-loaded ammo.

As you can see from the thread some really swear by crimping, therefore the positive responses and the others who probably don't crimp haven't even bothered to respond.

I load 28 differnet catridges and crimp only three, two of which are revolver cartridges, which are a differnt kettle of fish altogether and the 3rd - the .375 H&H performs under pretty extreme hunting conditions in a rifle that produces above average recoil, therefore the crimp.

quote:

Originally posted by chain:
Is it worth running right out and buying some? Or should one get used to his RCBS dies prior to complicating the issue? Chain

IMO, Yes it is worth running out and buying one.

The RCBS die will not crimp as well (at least I've never really been able to adjust one correctly to provide a satisfactory crimp.)

Save yourself some time, energy and some wasted brass and buy the Lee Crip die.

They are much simpler to use.

I use it on all of my cart. from 7.62x39 to 300WSM. Going to get one for my 9.3 X 62 next. They only cost about $8, give one a try.
I find the LFCD far easier to use then the crimp on my RCBS Dies, Very little chance of crushing the case due to inconsistant case length.

The beauty of the Lee die is that uniform case length is not really critical to its proper use AND bullets do NOT need cannelures for it to be used.

It is much more forgiving and also does a better job of crimping than your typical seating die. That's a rare combination.

RSY

I use them in every caliber that I can get them in. RSY is right, no cannellure needed. Fact is, on bullets with a cannellure, they hardly ever line up with my seating depth. If you follow directions, they are extremely easy to use and case length has no bearing on their use.

I use a Lee Collet Die

http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=329661

and a Redding Body Die if I need to

http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=418978

and then a Lee Factory Crimp Die

http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=143214

on all my reloadings. I don't apply a lot of pressure with the Collet Die which is not supposed to put as much pressure on the bullet when seated, therefore I put a light crimp with the LFCD just in case.

Easy to use and damn near idiot proof (which helps me out).



Without guns we are subjects, with guns we are citizens

I currently use the factory crimp in 44 cal and 30-06. I will be getting the crimp die for my 22-250, 243, and my 270.

i have used a lee factory crimp die for my .357 .38 spl loads for a long time..... i got a lee speed die and two speed die bodies and reload from two single stage presses because i had to get a custom seater from lee for swc bullets as to not ruin the flat nose on the bullet.......it all works out pretty good ...........i like factory crimp die real well......

LCD are great. Some time before they were avaiable in 260 Rem I cut back a 6.5x55 it worked well. I do not buy Lee dies but use the LCD in all calibres I own except for the 9.3x57.

Chain,
Gerry gave some good advice and he is probably correct in stating that those who don't crimp aren't responding. For instance, I previously posted that use the Factory crimp in 375 H&H and 416 Rigby. These are both relatively heavy recoilers and I use them for hunting primarily. I do not crimp my loads in .300 WinMag. One, because I get sufficient neck tension without crimping with my dies, two because I tend to use bullets with no crimping groove and lastly because my accuracy is just fine without crimping in this caliber.

Thanks guys. I can see that this is going to be a never ending process. I did get a three shot 1" group out of my last reloads so I'm probably good. Chain

quote:

Originally posted by chain:
Thanks guys. I can see that this is going to be a never ending process. I did get a three shot 1" group out of my last reloads so I'm probably good. Chain

OMG! That's hilarious! The reloading disease gradually turns into handloading which then manifests into "Precision handloading". Pretty soon you'll get to thinking "If I just change this, I can get a 10% improvement" or "I wonder if varying the neck tension will do this" Then you start buying different components and more equipment and before you know it you're shooting a heavy gun in benchrest competition or F class.

Give it up, you're already lost!

quote:

I did get a three shot 1" group out of my last reloads so I'm probably good. Chain

Chain......

You're the guy whose said he has loaded 9 .300 Win. Mags. - and you're already geting these kind of results - Fantastic, keep up the good work! Looks like you are on track!



Fjold,

Give it up, you're already lost!

Good One!

Wink......spot-on!

I think I got lucky , especially by bumping into this forum. I just followed all the answers I got here, from questions I asked. I weighed every charge paying real close attention to detail. The load, by the way, was a 180 gr Sierra Game King, Federal #215 large rifle primer, and 72.5 grains of RL 22. All information I got from this forum. So Thanks Guys. Chain

Here is some very interesting reading on the Lee Factory Crimp Die. Be interesting to see what Saeed finds out with "further testing".


http://www.accuratereloading.com/crimping.html

Steve4102,

Good tip, hadn't seen this, I'll be looking for the "final" results also.

quote:

Originally posted by Fjold:
...Pretty soon you'll get to thinking "If I just change this, I can get a 10% improvement" or "I wonder if ...

10%? 10%!! I've been doing this so long, I'm now working on 5% improvements.

It's WAY too late for me...