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I have been reloading ammo for my hunting rifles for many years but my knowledge is rudimentary at best. I can assemble a safe and fairly accurate load but it takes me ages to load just 20 rounds as I do it too seldom to ever get good at it. Mostly reloading for my .375HH and .458 Lott when going on a hunt and buy factory stuff for my 30-06 for practice, so no large volumes of reloading so far. I use a Hornady single stage press, RCBS hand priming tool and recently bought a RCBS charge master for throwing powder charges (it works great). Other than that I have no additional equipment. Now I am about to build my self a nice reloading bench in my basement and plan on trying to do some more frequent reloading after that. I'd like to have some advice on what tools to incorporate on my bench to both speed up my reloading a bit and to be able to produce highly accurate and consistent ammo (bench rest quality not being nessesary). I want good stuff, cost is not a big problem, but I only what things I actually need and use. I understand some use a separate press with a universal depriming die, good idea? What type of case cleaning system should I invest in, standard tumbler,stainless steel tumbler, ultra sound cleaner? What other equipment is useful when it comes to case prep? (I have been using either nice looking once fired cases or new unfired cases so far, to avoid case prep all together, and I guess that is not a good/economical solution in the long run). Yes, I do own a chronograph as I feel it is nessesary to make sure your loads are safe in your rifle. But I'd also like to know what is considered a high quality chrony these days as mine is about 15 years old. Any input and suggestions are very much appreciated! | ||
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One of Us |
If you load larger batches it will speed up your loading.Save your 3006 brass and load then you have enuogh for 1-2years. I use a ultrasonic cleaner and it works well for normal dirty cases (you can also use it for other small machine parts,jewels). A tumbler works better for really dirty cases. | |||
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One of Us |
That Ohler (I think its called) is supposebly the best out there, $500-600. I have a CED and happy enough with it. They all are dependent on the sun & shadows I believe. I had to make a blast board for mine also, magnum caliber would set it into default. | |||
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Moderator |
The Hornady LnL ap is an excellent press. I have used mine for the Lott. Get a new 100ish $ shooting Chrony with remote. Go slow. Measure and weigh. On the LnL you can remove the powder thrower and weigh each charge and drop with a funnel. 200 rounds am hour is very easy. If you can, find a dillon BRASS primer flipper. Very easy to load tubes with. Search YouTube for how tos on the press opinions vary band of bubbas and STC hunting Club Information on Ammoguide about the416AR, 458AR, 470AR, 500AR What is an AR round? Case Drawings 416-458-470AR and 500AR. 476AR, http://www.weaponsmith.com | |||
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One of Us |
As long as I've been reloading, speed has never been a consideration. I think as you reload more your productivity will increase. I would stay with what you've got and add "stuff" only as the need became apparent. And then, I'd add thingies only one at a time so you can correctly gauge if they do indeed help your process. Aim for the exit hole | |||
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one of us |
I think Beeman is right. Unless you are shooting competition a single stage should be adequate. The key to speed is to prep larger batches of brass. If you are running 50-100 pieces at a time the set up time isn't a problem. Do sizing/decapping one session, then trimming, then tumbling, then priming, then charging, then seating. If you do 1 step a night, you can shoot 50-100 rounds a week and never spend more than an hour a night at the loading bench. Any of the brand name stuff form RCBS, Hornady, Lee, etc should be fine and you can find a lot of it on ebay. Have gun- Will travel The value of a trophy is computed directly in terms of personal investment in its acquisition. Robert Ruark | |||
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One of Us |
I don't know what you are using for case trimming but I would highly recommend the Lee Case Length gages and the Lee 3-Jaw chuck along with a good cordless drill motor. There is nothing better that I have seen. Unless you are trying to clean several hundred cases at once (with 375 HH and the Lott I would think not), the best thing I have found to clean cases is a rag and rubbing alcohol AND some steel wool. The rag/alcohol gets rid of the bulk of grime and the steel wool removes the carbon buildup, etc. that the even tumblers won't remove. You should be wiping off the cases before you lube and resize them so that is where the rag and alcohol come in. Then before or after you resize just rotate the cases back and forth in the steel wool to remove the carbon buildup. You can also do this during the case trimming process with a drill motor and the Lee 3-Jaw chuck to really speed things up. Unless you just feel compelled to spend money, there is no reason to have more than one press. If you are loading pistol, then yes a turret or progressive press is nice but not necessary. As you already have, a good steel "O" type press like a RCBS, Lyman or Hornady is all that is needed. "The right to bear arms" insures your right to freedom, free speech, religion, your choice of doctors, etc. ....etc. ....etc.... -----------------------------------one trillion seconds = 31,709 years------------------- | |||
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one of us |
Wilson hand dies, you can use them at the range or anywhere. The best scale and powder trickler you can afford. Sinclair makes the best case trimmer out there with a micrometer adjustment. A good set of micrometers and calipers. A concentricity guage. That is probably more than you need but will do it all for precision reloading. If you reach a point you want to crank out some real volume a Dillon or Hornady progressive cant be beat. Still the most accurate loads are done the old way one at a time by hand. Happiness is a warm gun | |||
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One of Us |
I would tend to think you would find a scale a necessity for good, safe loads. Along with that and a decent manual and the kit you're about where I was two years ago. The secret as a number of people have said, is to load in big batches and spread it over a day or two. -- Promise me, when I die, don't let my wife sell my guns for what I told I her I paid for them. | |||
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One of Us |
Wilson Trimmer. Can't recommend it highly enough. Talk to the good folks at Sinclair. Brass prep makes a difference.. and can take the most time, but it's worth it. | |||
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One of Us |
Agreed. Wilson trimmer with Sinclair base and mic is the best. If you every get into high volume loading of bottleneck cases then a Giruard can't be beat in my opinion. But I have not spent much time around a Wilson trimmer. (Wanted a trimmer to do 50BMG as well so went with the Giruard) Mac | |||
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One of Us |
Your post is a little strange. The loading process is primarily case prep and that is what you have been skipping buy using new brass. You can reduce a lot of the speed issues by processing your brass in batches ahead of the time the ammo is needed. 1. Decap and clean all cases - set aside for the next operation 2. Size all cases 3. Trim all cases 4. Deburr and remove shavings - wash and rinse and dry 5. Prime and set aside 6. Charge all cases 7. Verify powder charge height in all cases. 8. Seat bullets.
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One of Us |
Thanks every one for your input! I'll look in to the things you have suggested and I guess studying some books and/or videos on the subject might be good to. Lots to learn... Once again, thanks! | |||
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