With the cost of ammo skyrocketing and availablity going the other way I'm thinking of starting to reload. I shoot a 300 wm and a 270 wsm. What is the real cost in getting started?? I don't shoot huge amounts but if the cost was more reasonable I would love to shoot more. Keep in mind I know slightly less than nothing about reloading. Thanks.

You'll get a lot of opinions here. I'll go first.

Reloading may save money, accurate hand loads may not. I've probably recovered my costs for equipment on handgun loads by now, it is possible to save money and pay for your equiment if components don't get as expensive as ammo. The more you shoot the more you save.

For accurate handloads in rifles your looking for better quality and lower speed (rounds per hour). You may spend less for components but your initial costs will be more and you'll have more time involved. The plus side is you may think that Federal Gold Medal Match or some other brand was great when you averaged three inches at 200 yards then you work up a consistant inch and a half to two inch group.

As far as equipment recomendations, I'd recommend either a RCBS Rock Chucker (low price good quality) or Redding T-7 (higher price, better quality, turrets rotate and have your dies adjusted already). I'd pick the Redding. For dies I'd go with Redding.

It makes a lot of sense to reload for hunting rilfes. You can tailor your ammo & get the best accuracy & you save a ton of money per round. Fortunately, you don't need a high production rate for hunting rifles, so a single stage press will do nicely. You can go cheap w/ the Lee Classic cast, good scale, like the Dillon beam, dies, shell holder, calipers, loading block & maybe a hand priming tool (just easier than press priming). You can get all that for less than $300 for one caliber. You can see that doesn't take many rounds to pay the equip. costs. The RCBS RC kit is a great way to go. DO NOT buy the Lee kit, the scale is crap & the powder measure just slightly better than crap.
I recommend The ABCs of Reloading to read before you buy anything else. Then you'll have an idea of what you need vs what you want.

The first thing I would advise is that you get several reloading manuals including the Lyman and read them thru several times just to get a basic understanding of the procedure. I'd also personally recommend the Sierra manual as well.
As to equipment, I'd get the RCBS starters kit and a Rock Chucker press if the kit doesn't come with it. I highly recommend that you buy quality equipment 1 time and be done with it. There's no point in going "cheap" then having to buy equipment a second time. It's initially more expensive and if you're short on money save until you can buy quality.
For dies, I personally like Forster's but I'll also use RCBS or Redding. RCBS customer service is second to none should you have a problem withtheir stuff. One other item you'll want/need is a quality vernier caliper. I would not get nor use the cheap plastic styles here.
The bottom line "danger " here is that it's highly likely that you'll start shooting more and end up spending as much or more on ammo than if you bought it. Such fun!!!
Bear in Fairbanks

I have a problem with the wholesale recommendation for the RCBS RockChucker kit. On the surface, it is the best buy on a kit walking away. The caveat is this: there must an application for the supplied powder measure, and with rifle loads, that is an exception. Further, to use the PM another $30 has to be spent on a stand. What I see with that kit is three usable tools. The scale and hand-priming tool are first class. The press is not what its predecessor was; this one has a reputation for loose fit of the ram. The assortment of accessories is mediocre and can be replaced.

In the end, you have $250 of equipment for which you paid $280 - $300, depending on where and when you buy it. The three pieces can be substituted for under $200 with a Redding Boss press, Dillon beam measure, and Lee AutoPrime tool and shellholder. I didn't give any credit for the Speer Manual, but that would only count if the purchaser were to acquire it singly.

What I have described here constitutes a setup for weighing individual charges, and the Lee powder dippers and a Redding trickler round out the necessary equipment.

All of this needs a dial caliper (cheap is okay), Imperial sizing wax, Redding standard dies (unless better is preferred), a trimmer, VLD chamfer, and some accessories. The Sinclair catalog lists good ones. Caliber-specific loading blocks and funnels will make life easier.

Depending on what you buy, you will have spent somewhere in the $400 dollar range, but you can do the math for yourself at this point. Do your homework, and then plan your purchases. I approach the purchase of cheap equipment with trepidation, although I do find the Lee primer-pocket cleaning tool to be quite satisfactory.

Buy and read at least a couple of the load books before you buy any of your reloading tools. Before you buy any of the tools to reload with, I would suggest that you go to a sports shop and ask to look at a Lee Loader. Spread the sparse items on the counter and understand that is ALL you need to reload a cartridge. And Bench Rest shooters were setting records with basically the same tools not too long ago. Use that information to temper the looong laundry list of "got to have" items that some folks will say you need to reload.

You need a press. You do not need an automatic one nor one that does anything except one function at a time. A simple single stage press. A good medium priced one will last you a lifetime. You don't need a monster press. I've reloaded for almost 50 years without a need for one.
A good balance beam scale. I use a Ohaus 10/10 but there are others that are good but cheaper. I'd get a balance beam scale first because the electricity never goes off nor the batteries wear out on them. Later you can "upgrade" to a digital if you'd like, but keep the balance beam scale handy.
Powder measure. They're handy and you can get a good one without a second mortage. One favored technique is to set your measure where it throws a close amount of powder into the scale pan and then trickle a little more into it until the exact amount is achieved. A bowl of powder and a set of Lee scoops works good too as does a bowl of powder and a plastic spoon for real cost effectiveness. As long as you have a good balance beam scale.
Don't let anybody bullshit you. Everybody that makes reloading dies, makes good ones. They wouldn't stay in business if they didn't. I've used most kinds and some are easier to use than others because of certain features but I have yet to be able to say one brand makes more accurate ammo than another. I use a lot of RCBS because they probably make and sell more than anybody else and they are the most readidly available. To begin with, you don't need any specialty dies, neck dies, or such, just simple full length dies. Set them up exactly like the instructions say that come with them.
Not a lot of folks prime their cartridges with their presses anymore as it lacks the "feel". But rather, they use hand operated tools so they can feel the primer seat to the bottom of the primer pocket. I use the Lee Auto Prime. RCBS makes a unit that is well thought of be it's users also.
A set of calipers are handy. Cheap ones are okay. I reloaded for years using a little plastic set from Hornady (I think).
Sooner of later, you are gonna need a case trimmer to trim your brass to a uniform length or when they grow over long. With your calipers, you can keep track of the length of your cases and any that grow over long, you can put them aside until you get one.
You need some odds and ends of hands tools. As well as a means to lube your brass. I started out with RCBS case lube and a stamp pad and that's what I still use. Other products have come along since that are well thought of by their users and I'm sure you can find out about them here on the net. You need a little tool (I don't know what to call it) that is used to chamfer (bevel) the inside of the case mouth so's the bullet won't catch on the sharp edge, and to smooth any rough edges on the outside edge of the case mouth.
And that's pretty much it. To begin with, you don't need to weight cases, you don't need to uniform primer pockets, nor flash holes, nor turn necks. You don't need a comparitor nor any of the other gizzies that some folks will say you must have. Make your cartridges to a length that matches the store bought ones until you get good at it and then you can start trying some of the other stuff.
In other words, don't try to short cut the learning curve.
It's a great hobby. I don't know if you'll save any money but you'll get more bangs for you bucks. I was successful in selling my wife the bill of goods that I was saving money --I even worked up some figures-- and so, over the years, I've bought several rifles with ALL the money I've saved by reloading.

Reloading can definatly save a bundle of $$ over time. The amount you shoot is what dictates how much time. If you only shoot 100 rds a year at game you`re better off not not looking for a savings. If you shoot 100 rds a month you will recoupe the cost of you`re start up and start saving fairly quick, depending on the cartridge.
As the others have said, get a manual or two and read the 1st 100 pages. That will explain what you need and how to use it. Once you have an idea of what is out there, decide on how much the budget can handle. There kits save money but E-Bay and garage sales can offer some very good deals.

get a hornady LnL AP press
dies
an extra 10 pack of bushings
and go to it.

I WISH i could have afforded this as my first setup

quote:

Originally posted by jeffeosso:
get a hornady LnL AP press
dies
an extra 10 pack of bushings
and go to it.

I WISH i could have afforded this as my first setup

+ 1 plus you get free bullets till the end of december

I can reload a 300WSM shell for about $0.70 using a Sierra MatchKing bullet and RL-22 powder. That's fourteen bucks a 20-count box, or less than half the price of a factory box. Makes every bit of sense in the world to reload, plus you get the satisfaction of knowing what's in the case that shot that small group or dropped that big buck. I must warn you: Once you start reloading, you'll become addicted to it...

quote:

Originally posted by bc300winguy:
With the cost of ammo skyrocketing and availablity going the other way I'm thinking of starting to reload. I shoot a 300 wm and a 270 wsm. What is the real cost in getting started?? I don't shoot huge amounts but if the cost was more reasonable I would love to shoot more. Keep in mind I know slightly less than nothing about reloading. Thanks.

300 bucks for starters.

I've been reloading for about 30 years. When I started, I had one rifle, in 30-06. I used an RCBS starter kit, and added and changed equipment as my reloading practice grew. $300-$400 will get you started pretty well.

The thing is, you will be totally in touch with your rifle if you develop and make your own rounds. It becomes an extension of yourself mentally, as well as physically. You won't save any money, but you'll shoot a lot more, and enjoy it a lot more.

My favorite reloading tool by the way, is the internet. Can't believe we ever got along without it. AR is a great resource, and if you pony up a few bucks and join Barnes' "Copper Club," they offer a pretty good online loading course.

Where you save some serious scratch is loading for big bores. Check out the cost of factory 470NE and other safari calibers. Who can afford to practice with a double if he doesn't reload?

There is no substitute for knowledge. If you know a highly experienced handloader you would do well to benefit from his knowledge. You can get an effective start with a Lee Loader dipping powder charges.
I have several sets of extra equipment that would probably not bring more than $100. If you are a good scrounger you could duplicate one of these sets with some patience. Yeah you might buy better equipment later but the main barrier is just getting started with anything. Many people get hung up justifying the initial $300 expenditure and never get started.
If you make wise choices starting with used equipment you can always re-coop your money as you move on to better equipment.

Winchester, sounds like the RCBS kit has changed since I bought mine (10 years or more). Mine came from Midway with the measure and stand. It's a shame they are having ram problems I started out on mine.

Sam, RCBS is out-sourcing much of their production these days; they just won't say exactly what. We know that the castings are from China, and many insist that the machining is done here. I can't see their paying the same shipping costs for raw castings as they would pay for the same parts machined, especially when the machining can be done so much more cheaply over there. But we can't say that foreign production is the cause for the ill-fitting parts: in the end, it's RCBS's problem, and there's been no indication of their remedying anything. It's a sellers market now, and other mfr's are taking the same disinterest.

Be comforted that you got a good press when they were still available. I studied the designs and looked at construction quality, when possible, for a long time before I made a decision. I liked the idea of a tilted press like the old C-frame designs and considered the construction rigidity of the CH Champion press that retains that feature. Never realized that the tilt required supporting the brass when operating the press. The RockChucker's massive construction and large ram looked good to me, but I finally decided that a twisted design was more ergonomic. All of the newer designs are larger to accommodate the long magnums following Remington's introduction of the Ultra Magnums. I guess we still haven't come to grips with idea that a press any larger than needed means more work with the longer ram travel. I decided on a smaller-framed, twisted O-frame design and have been delighted with it.

I believe the RockChucker kit currently furnishes a bench bracket for the powder measure. Thing is, unless you're loading for handguns (or BR with spherical powders), the powder measure simply provides a bulk load that gets trickled up. I use the Lee dippers, and I can't see where the powder measure would be more convenient, just more expensive. I considered the RC kit to be a best buy until I learned of the quality problems with the press. But looking beyond that issue, I still think that buying individual pieces is a better option.

quote:

Originally posted by homebrewer:
I can reload a 300WSM shell for about $0.70 using a Sierra MatchKing bullet and RL-22 powder. That's fourteen bucks a 20-count box, or less than half the price of a factory box. Makes every bit of sense in the world to reload, plus you get the satisfaction of knowing what's in the case that shot that small group or dropped that big buck. I must warn you: Once you start reloading, you'll become addicted to it...

the addiction is true then you will start seeing all the neat tools for check bullet runout and trimming and measuring and cleaning . if you only load for the money savings then you can save money but when you go for accuracy good never seems good enough but it is alot of fun trying .

the addiction has really set in when you start to buy rifles so's you'll have something new to reload for. And, of course, new dies, bullets, and such.

$300 WOW, now I know the desire to make sure a rookie has the right stuff but come on guys. Get this:
Lee single stage

And buy 2 sets of dies (I would recomend lee because the book will make sense and those dippers do work) and take the other $200 and buy components.

I am assuming that you are loading for bolt rifles with this idea.

This is how I started years ago and I still have that little press and book.

quote:

Originally posted by idahoelk101:
This is how I started years ago and I still have that little press and book.

What are you using today?

Lee challenger and a Classic cast. A few other items, tumber (Frankford I think),couple of balance scales, etc. All I need for my reloading. Kind of use the 3 presses as an assembly line.

Actually, IMO, a case could be made for starting out with a Lee Loader (if they make them in your calibre) and a balance beam scale to give your more versatility in your powder options.
I was lucky in that I never had to buy a kit but had a buddy that was going through a ugly divorce and needed some quick get out of town money so I not only got the basic items, I got a lot of the nice to have stuff too.
I have a couple of RCBS presses and a Lee Challenger press. I can't see anything wrong with the Challenger.
Remember the $300 worth of stuff will last you a long, long time. The RCBS Jr press that I got in the deal used from my buddy, I have used for 45 years and it is still cooking. I gave it to a newbie that was just starting out last year.

quote:

Originally posted by wasbeeman:
the addiction has really set in when you start to buy rifles so's you'll have something new to reload for. And, of course, new dies, bullets, and such.

this is true just got a 300 wsm already had a 308 and 30.06 and 3030 also just got an ar15 in 223 fun lil rifle

I started reloading for my 270WSM - it was the only way to get choice of ammo in our area.

I went with the rock chucker kit from RCBS - all I need and happy with it.

I would buy a Lee Anniversery Kit and add from there. I loaded a bunch with just the Kit and did farily well. I then put a universal decapping die on my little Lee press and bought a Lee Classic Turret press (love it) and a RCBS Charge master (love it too).

I use mostly Lee dies and load some very good "handloads" with them. I have compared Lee dies to borrowed other brands and can't make my loads any better with them.

I mostly use Lee's trimmer system although am going to buy a universal trimmer of some sort for specialty things like when I need to over-trim for special applications with certain bullets.