Any recommendations for 6.5 creedmoor and 375 Ruger and maybe 7.5x55 Swiss dies ?

I had no replies on the reloading forum. Seems like are members are a bunch of factory ammo buyers

Thanks

Mike

Are starting to hand-load?

quote:

Originally posted by ledvm:
Are starting to hand-load?

I have a rcbs rock chucker kit. I am shooting too much 6.5 creedmoor so I need to start reloading.

https://www.midwayusa.com/prod...ngle-stage-press-kit

Mike

RCBS dies are good. I use Lee dies and have good results with them as well. I have a few specialty dies but mainly RCBS and Lee. Never had any better results with the more expensive brands. Use a few special seater dies for some target rifles...but stuff like that you will decide on later. Buy either of the above and start off.

I would buy this set for the Creedmoor.

I'd get a Redding set with a competition seating die for the 6.5. You will likely want to fiddle around with seating depth on that one. I think the Redding stuff is the best, but you pay for it...

The Lee dies work and are a lot less expensive, but are kind of touchy about set up IMO.

I think RCBS is probably the best quality for the money.

I tend to stay away from Hornady dies due to the decapping stem always moving out.

The 7.5 swiss is going to be an odd one no matter where you get it...

Mike
From your posts I see you are like me - a guy who sees and appreciates the fine qualities of Blasers.
Therefore, like me, you might consider setting up with Redding dies. As Mr. Butler says you pay to enjoy this brand but I believe the quality is tops. Evidently you are capable of obtaining the finer things. Again Mr. Butler is correct in stating the Redding Competition Seating Die is a premium quality device. I have used RCBS and Hornady but now use Redding dies exclusively. Hand loading is all about producing the straightest rounds with the least variation possible for best accuracy. My experience is Redding does this best for me.
As for AR members being factory ammo users this member has hardly used any for maybe 20 plus years. However have probably spent a small fortune on ammo components. Handloading can have that affect.

this is political why?

The Lee side against the anti-Lee side. Almost as bad as D vs. R.

For heavy recoiling hunting rifles I got into Lee Factory Crimp dies. For target rifles...I got into Lee Collet dies.

For some very sensitive target rifles I do use Redding seating dies.

Every hunting rifle I use regularly though has a Lee Factory Crimp die....even the ones I use a RCBS die set for like my .500 NE. Lee made me a custom LFC die for it.

I would argue for the Creedmoor...the best value is the Ultimate set above. If for ultimate benchrest accuracy you find your rifle extremely seating-depth sensitive...then add a Redding Competition seating die.

I'm a Redding fan for all accuracy stuff!

And yes, I do like we factory crimp does for the big bores.

A cool thing about Redding dies, if you go cheap to start with you can add a micrometer too to their seating dies, relatively cheap.

quote:

Originally posted by bluefish:
this is political why?

It’s not but it’s better info than the 10,000 useless political post and no one in the reloading forum gave me an answer.


Thanks for all the info.

Mike

quote:

Originally posted by crbutler:
I'd get a Redding set with a competition seating die for the 6.5. You will likely want to fiddle around with seating depth on that one. I think the Redding stuff is the best, but you pay for it...

The Lee dies work and are a lot less expensive, but are kind of touchy about set up IMO.

I think RCBS is probably the best quality for the money.

I tend to stay away from Hornady dies due to the decapping stem always moving out.

The 7.5 swiss is going to be an odd one no matter where you get it...

10/4 on the above, with the caveat that the Hornady new dimension dies now have a threaded decapping stem which pretty much solves the problem mentioned above.

And here is a thought.

If you are going to get started reloading in order to save money you might count the cost first. If you are reloading, because you want to fiddle with different powders and bullets and most of all for enjoyment then by all means learn to reload.

I have loaded for over 80 different chamberings in the last thirty years on an RCBS Rock-Chucker single stage press.

So the RCBS kit from the link,$350 plus tax.

$225 at Midway for the Redding Competition Die Set
https://www.midwayusa.com/prod...3-die-neck-sizer-set

Most likely you'll get a vibratory hopper to polish brass after several firings

Prolly want to invest in an annealing torch or apparatus for annealing your work hardened brass.

You will want to get a caliper,

maybe an electronic scale

or a higher quality scale that the 5-05 that comes in your kit.

You'll need to buy primers and powder.
$5 per hundred for primers and you'll need to buy at least four or 5 different brands to see which your rifle likes.

H-4350 seems has been the go to powder for the Creedmoor if I recall so +/- $30 per pound.

Invest in bullets @ $25 to 50 per box. And you'll need to try Sierra, Nosler, Hornady, Barnes just to start.

I load Hornady out of the Hornady manual, Nosler out of the Nosler Manual, Barnes out of the Barnes Manual, Sierra out of the Sierra manual. So there is the expense for all the manuals. Of course you could go online, but online I don't think the manufacturers tell you which was the best load in their test barrels as does the Nosler Manual.

A Hornady overall length gauge will be necessary to check the COAL to determine how far off the lands your bullet are seated rather than use book length.

I could go on ad nauseum.

Just sayin' that one can drop a considerable sum when bitten by the bug.

I don't shoot long range or competition. I'm not near as anal about brass prep (weight sorting, primer pocket uniforming, flash hole uniforming,brass trimming to length) and trickling each load nor marking the brass to make sure in a single shot rifle that the orientation of my case in the chamber is the same each time I fire..........

Here lately I'm shooting a lot more factory loads.

just sayin!

GWB

Glenn:


I am not reloading for cost.

I do plan to shoot my 6.5 creedmoor at the 300 meter range regularly and want to develop a load for it.

Thanks,

Mike

Then I do not think you can go wrong with the Redding Competiton bushing die set.
You may want to buy a couple different bushings in order to try different neck tensions.

Another way to go is to look at Wilson hand dies and a press.


https://www.brownells.com/relo..._content=749-018-048


https://www.brownells.com/relo..._content=749-014-584


ya!

GWB

quote:

Originally posted by Geedubya:
Then I do not think you can go wrong with the Redding Competiton bushing die set.
You may want to buy a couple different bushings in order to try different neck tensions.

Another way to go is to look at Wilson hand dies and a press.


https://www.brownells.com/relo..._content=749-018-048


https://www.brownells.com/relo..._content=749-014-584


ya!

GWB

I already have the rock chucker- academy had them on clearance for $120.

I will get a set of 6.5 dies. Subsailor74 kindly reloads for me and will teach me reloading this summer.

I am starting reloading and fly fishing - both activities with a lot of little stuff. Same time I am trying to get rid of 2/3 of stuff I have over the next 5-10 years.

I will reload only 2-3 calibers.

Now off to academy to buy some 6.5 ammo - last day of $20 of $100 purchases.

Mike

All 7.5 Swiss rifles(1889, 1911,31,57) can be reloaded with a single die. I have a Lee and RCBS. Both are good dies and make good ammo. For me the Lee has worked out well for over forty years. I got a good deal on a used RCBS a few years ago. Some believe that better ammo for the k31 is made with a specific 1931 die which works in the k31 only. Best

Happy with my RCBS .375 R 2 die set. Crimps hold.
Hornady cases stretching less than 0.005" after 3 firings/FL sizings.

GG's giving me 3/4" cloverleafs, too. Not much to complain about.

Really, we have little to gripe about with respect to loading equipment. It's all very good now.

And maybe before. Few days ago shot some of the last of Dad's '06. Loaded on his Herters press w/Herters dies. 150s and 4320. 2" at 100 yds for 5 with a 2.75x Hensoldt atop a 1934 M-54 Win. What's to complain about.

Am still using his mid-'60s Herters press and dies.

Easy to overthink this stuff.

quote:

Originally posted by Samuel_Hoggson:

Easy to overthink this stuff.

I still occasionally Lee Loaders that I've had over 50 years . They've always given excellent results.

I buy Forster-Bonanza dies whenever possible, but they are a little limited on the calibers they make. Bullet runout is much less than what I get with RCBS and a lot of other dies. Redding also makes excellent quality dies. If I can't get Forster-Bonanza or Redding, I buy Hornady dies. A lot of people say I put too much expense and effort into hunting loads but it is worth it to me. Good luck.

I have to admit that I am in the anti-Lee crowd. I have been loading since 1970 using Lyman,RCBS,Redding,etc. I just have a personal thought that you can not get quality for nothing.Lee might make a wonderful product;I would'nt know because I would'nt buy any.I firmly believe that a cheaper price' 'might' equal a bargain;But as the old adage goes,"You get what you pay for".I prefer to buy quality the 1st time + never look back.

I'll also vote for the Redding s-type bushing sizer die and the comp seater. It's more money that the "regular" dies but way more precise and loads of fun to have that kind of control.

Zeke

PS: my 6.5 Creedmoor (along with over a half dozen other chamberings) LOVES the Redding dies as much as I do. hehe

Redding makes two sets for the 7.5x55, one for the GP11 and earlier chamber, and one for the K31 chamber which is slightly larger. Most companies only make a single set for the early chamber. Use the early chamber dies on a K31 fired case and the brass is going to be worked quite a bit as it gets sized back down to fit the smaller chamber. Brass fired in a K31 is going to last longer if you use the K31 die set, if you have one of the earlier rifles you need the GP11 die set or the brass won't chamber.

quote:

Originally posted by crbutler:
I'd get a Redding set with a competition seating die for the 6.5. You will likely want to fiddle around with seating depth on that one. I think the Redding stuff is the best, but you pay for it...

The Lee dies work and are a lot less expensive, but are kind of touchy about set up IMO.

I think RCBS is probably the best quality for the money.

I tend to stay away from Hornady dies due to the decapping stem always moving out.

The 7.5 swiss is going to be an odd one no matter where you get it...

Spot on post. Redding is the best and you will want to adjust seating depth. If you have two rifles of the same caliber, a micrometer seating die is the only way to do as you can easily adjust seating depth.

I agree about the Hornady decapping stem; I crank down hard on the nut and it prevents it, but not a great design. Seating dies are okay as are their pistol dies.

Wilson is also an option, esp if you want to measure seating/neck tension (but guessing that is not a high priority).

I no longer load shotgun ammo and sometimes debate giving up .45 ACP but can't imagine being a serious rifle shooter and not handloading.

I’m not sure I can add a lot to what’s been recommended, with crbutler’s post being especially good, IMO. But I will free associate, and my opinions are worth just what you paid for them.

1) Good for you that you’ll be learning the ropes from an experienced loader. Your guy will have his own way of doing things and until you gain self-confidence do what he tells you to. You want to be safe. And peace of mind is a wonderful thing.

2) Read the introductions of handloading books on the “whats, hows and whys” of reloading. Then read them again. You should know what and why you're doing things and what to expect once you’ve done them

3) The Rockchucker is a great first press. I have used mine for the past 40-50 years with no problems. When I die, I want it and my truck to be buried with me.

4) Most of my resizing dies are RCBS. I also have Forester, Hornady, Redding and Lee dies. I can’t see a difference in the performance of ammo produced by one brand over another, but that could be me or the quality of my rifles. I don’t particularly like the RCBS lock rings or the Lee rings, and prefer Hornady or forester.

5) I use the Redding competition seating dies for my accuracy calibers (.204, .223, .225 and .243).

6) Get a good set of calipers. You should not allow your brass to grow in length beyond the maximum stated in your “trim to” dimensions.

7) You may need a case trimmer.

8) I have an inexpensive electronic scale and an excellent beam scale. I use them both, but I love the beam scale for its simplicity, linearity, reproducibility and accuracy. But it is a little slower to use than the electronic scale. If you get a beam scale, get a set of check-weights to ensure that it is spot on before each reloading session and verify its accuracy a few times during a session. Adjust it accordingly if it is not where it should be.

9) I use the RCBS hand primer for all my rifle reloading. Actually, I have two of them with one set up for small rifle primers and the other set up for large rifle primers.

10) Setting up your FL dies properly is important. The instructions that come with the dies are okay, but suboptimal (they will generally shrink your brass too much which can affect the life of the brass and accuracy). Your guy will explain how to tailor your dies for the specific chamber the cartridge will be fired in.

11) ADDITION 1. For FL sizing, you'll need to lubricate your cases or else they will stick in your die. I use the RCBS pad with the RCBS lubricant. Don't over-lube them.

As I say . . . free associations.