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one of us |
You forgot one important detail: EVERY THIRD ITEM ON THE LIST SHOULD READ: sorry couldn't help it. looks pretty thourough ------------------ | |||
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<goneballistic> |
quote: Now, you were going good, real good, then you lost me, right about there. The flash hole size is critical, it should not be enlarged. If you are looking for uniformity they make a tool for that, it's called a flash hole uniforming tool. After the tool has been used correctly, the flash hole should appear clean and uniform in appearance, the inside edge should have a very, very small chamfer. There should not be a funnel type depression around the flash hole, (case interior) after using above tool. This would mean that the tool is adjusted incorrectly. Also, as you get some usage from your brass, do you check for brass flow in the neck area? On occasion, after a few reloadings/firings, bottle necked brass should be checked for proper neck dimensions, after assembling the round. After a couple trimmings, the necks can thicken, causing pinching during chambering, increasing pressures. Not very common, but not unheard of either. [This message has been edited by David M (edited 12-01-2001).] | ||
<George Capriola> |
TG, Just a couple differences... The first thing I do with new brass (or factory brass on it's first reloading) is uniform the primer pockets and de-burr the flash holes. The de-burring is a one-time-only procedure. I use a cordless screwdriver and uniformers from Sinclair International for the primer pockets. I also use the uniformers to clean the primer pockets after decapping the case. First step for me is dump the brass out of the field boxes into the tumbler. I use untreated walnut shell media, because I don't want to blast polishing media down the barrels. Then, I wipe down, decap, inspect, and re-size. Another thing I try to do with my .17 Remington and .22 Hornet brass is sort the cases by weight, since the cases are relativley small. I'm certain it helps with the Hornet brass, and I'm sure it doesn't hurt with any other brass. It's fast & easy with an electronic scale. Regards, George. | ||
one of us |
TG, regarding the thickening of the necks of your brass. A quick and easy way to check that is make sure that a bullet of the proper size will slide into the neck of the fired case. If it will, then you don't have to worry about the neck "pinching" in the chamber. Hint: insert the check bullet into the neck base first. That leaves you the point of the bullet to hold onto. I sure wisht I had a 'puter when I started reloading. (they didn't have them back when I started :-) ) | |||
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<Fat Bastard> |
Every so often, you'll want to anneal your case necks. I'd put it between steps 4 and 5 or 5 and 6. Opinions? | ||
<TGWoody> |
quote: What process would you go through for annealing your cases? Plus, ,,is there a proven technique to tell when to anneal the brass? TGW | ||
<TGWoody> |
quote: You mean "Crown Royal" Right :~? | ||
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