Standard Operating Procedure (SOP)

01 December 2001, 16:05

<TGWoody>

To be more consent in my reloading I'm on a new quest of developing a set of guidelines to aid in the reloading process. I believe that I perform most all the necessary steps but may have some in the wrong order or have some of the methods poorly developed.

At this time, here is most of the procedures I go through: (I generally work with 60 cases & perform each task as a group).

1. Check brass for blown primer pockets, stress, inconsistencies and anything that may consider the brass unusable.
2. Remove primer and resize case.
3. Check O.A.L , trim to size if necessary.
4. Remove rough edge of neck with hand tool.
5. Neck turn if necessary
6. Clean primer pocket.
7. Tumble brass w/ polish
8. Hand wipe down each case and clear primer hole.
9. Insert primer with Hand tool.
10. Calibrate powder thrower.
11. Take one empty sample case and re-calibrate seating die.
12. Set and calibrate calipers with bullet set to seating depth.
13. Remove bullet from sample case and re-check several times.
14. Sort and clean work area for final processes.
15. Charge cases, visually check each case and re-measure about every 10 rounds prior to seating bullet.
16. Seat first round, and check with calipers.
17. Seat a few more and check again.
18. After Seating every case, check O.A.L again.
19. Wipe down and place in Case holder box.
20. Document and tag each box.

I have been think about drilling the flash hole with my drill press, but have not set it up yet.

I have been reloading for about 1ï¿½ years and know that I need to learn a lot more.

Thanks for the help,
TWG

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Where ever you go. .. there you are.

01 December 2001, 16:35

Curtis_Lemay

You forgot one important detail:

EVERY THIRD ITEM ON THE LIST SHOULD READ:
TAKE SWIG OF SCOTCH

sorry couldn't help it. looks pretty thourough

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When in doubt, do a nuclear strike.

02 December 2001, 09:49

<goneballistic>

quote:
Originally posted by TGWoody:
Standard Operating Procedure (SOP)

I have been think about drilling the flash hole with my drill press, but have not set it up yet.
Thanks for the help,
TWG

Now, you were going good, real good, then you lost me, right about there. The flash hole size is critical, it should not be enlarged. If you are looking for uniformity they make a tool for that, it's called a flash hole uniforming tool. After the tool has been used correctly, the flash hole should appear clean and uniform in appearance, the inside edge should have a very, very small chamfer. There should not be a funnel type depression around the flash hole, (case interior) after using above tool. This would mean that the tool is adjusted incorrectly.

Also, as you get some usage from your brass, do you check for brass flow in the neck area? On occasion, after a few reloadings/firings, bottle necked brass should be checked for proper neck dimensions, after assembling the round. After a couple trimmings, the necks can thicken, causing pinching during chambering, increasing pressures. Not very common, but not unheard of either.

[This message has been edited by David M (edited 12-01-2001).]

02 December 2001, 01:39

<George Capriola>

TG,
Just a couple differences...
The first thing I do with new brass (or factory brass on it's first reloading) is uniform the primer pockets and de-burr the flash holes. The de-burring is a one-time-only procedure. I use a cordless screwdriver and uniformers from Sinclair International for the primer pockets. I also use the uniformers to clean the primer pockets after decapping the case.
First step for me is dump the brass out of the field boxes into the tumbler. I use untreated walnut shell media, because I don't want to blast polishing media down the barrels. Then, I wipe down, decap, inspect, and re-size.
Another thing I try to do with my .17 Remington and .22 Hornet brass is sort the cases by weight, since the cases are relativley small. I'm certain it helps with the Hornet brass, and I'm sure it doesn't hurt with any other brass. It's fast & easy with an electronic scale.
Regards, George.

02 December 2001, 07:36

beemanbeme

TG, regarding the thickening of the necks of your brass. A quick and easy way to check that is make sure that a bullet of the proper size will slide into the neck of the fired case. If it will, then you don't have to worry about the neck "pinching" in the chamber. Hint: insert the check bullet into the neck base first. That leaves you the point of the bullet to hold onto. I sure wisht I had a 'puter when I started reloading. (they didn't have them back when I started :-) )

02 December 2001, 08:14

<Fat Bastard>

Every so often, you'll want to anneal your case necks. I'd put it between steps 4 and 5 or 5 and 6. Opinions?

02 December 2001, 15:42

<TGWoody>

quote:
Originally posted by Fat Bastard:
Every so often, you'll want to anneal your case necks. I'd put it between steps 4 and 5 or 5 and 6. Opinions?

What process would you go through for annealing your cases?

Plus, ,,is there a proven technique to tell when to anneal the brass?

TGW

02 December 2001, 15:43

<TGWoody>

quote:
Originally posted by Curtis_Lemay:
You forgot one important detail:
EVERY THIRD ITEM ON THE LIST SHOULD READ:
TAKE SWIG OF SCOTCH
sorry couldn't help it. looks pretty thourough

You mean "Crown Royal" Right :~?