How important is it? I have not tried my seating die to see if it crimps. I searched and only found a Lee crimp die but it is 1 1/4X12. I do not want to buy a new press just for a few rounds! Factory is limited right, so hand loading maybe the only option. I plan on loading 350 gr Barnes TSX. With their bands it takes a lot to just seat them. Thoughts?

What dies are you using?

Can’t you crimp with them??

I’ve used both hornady and now RCBS dies for the .416 Rigby.

I usually crimp after I’ve seated all the bullets, but this is for hunting ammo and the extra peace of mind.

The bullets do seem to need pretty good force to seat and remove when there is a screw up. Crimping makes it even more difficult.

I have a few of the Lee factory crimp dies in other calibers. I don’t see them buying me much in rifle calibers, so I don’t use them much.

You don’t have to crimp them is my experience from my time when I shot the .416 as a range toy, but for hunting I do… no particular reason, just do.

Follow the instructions with the die set and they will crimp as well.

Because of the steeper shoulders on the 416 Rigby case some reloaders have experienced collapsed shoulders when crimping bullets so the crimping setup needs to be set carefully.

I don't crimp when loading 404 Jeffery cartridges as the neck tension with jacketed and cast bullets is very good. Some RWS 347gr bullets that I have loaded do not have a crimping groove or cannelure and even when seated to give the same cartridge overall length as the 400gr bullets, they do not move in the neck under firing conditions. The 404 case has a shorter neck than the 416 case so the Rigby should have better neck tension.

I have modified a Lyman 45 ACP neck expanding M-1 die for flaring 404 case mouths to aid seating of cast bullets and this works well for jacketed bullets too. I turned the 45 cal plug down to a slide fit into the neck of the 404 case where the existing taper at the top of the plug slightly flares the case mouths perfectly, the case shoulder acting as the stop on the mouth of the pistol cartridge die. The bullet base is held in the case mouth flare which aids starting the whole caboodle up into the seating die and clipping the case head into the shell holder (my Pacific C press doesn't have a large opening). My RCBS seating die irons out the neck flare as the bullet is seated so crimping is not required even for this purpose.

In summary if you find bullets do not move when using the 416 Rigby on target then I wouldn't bother crimping even for hunting ammo. You are not a professional elephant hunter where some rounds may sit in the magazine while you continually top up while slaying into the big tusker herds

quote:

1 1/4X12

spin the 7/8-14 bushing out of your press - it's like 1 1/4X12

quote:

Originally posted by jeffeosso:

quote:

1 1/4X12

spin the 7/8-14 bushing out of your press - it's like 1 1/4X12

most presses.....

i meant likely, btw

I have RCBS dies. I have not tried crimping with them, instructions are long gone! I have a Lee collet crimp for my 416 Ruger and like it. I was surprised that their die for 416 Rigby was so large. I was hoping someone else made a 7/8"-14. The only two factory I have found so far are Barnes and Hornady. If Hornady won't make 375 Ruger brass I won't buy from them! WE have a while before we get on the plane so it's just practice ammo for now! Spinning out the bushing on my press will probably be the last resort.
Thanks for the help!

The seater should also be a crimper - you can tell pretty easily.. take a resized case (deprimed of course) and turn the die into the press further than you have before -- then raise the case until you just barely feel pressure, back out, see if the neck is crimped, and to what degree -- when you think you have enough, back the die way out, put the case all the way up, turn the die back in until you feel it touch the case... back off 1/4 turn, set the locking ring, and back the seating stem out too much - then try with an resized case and preferred bullet - don't shove it ALL the way in, just till you feel it touch, and turn the stem down until it touches the bullet... then adjust until the bullet and crimp align at your designed oal ...

that was easy to type... harder to do, but once set, it's actually fairly straight forward

Good advice above.

Make sure your cases are the same length.

Seat your bullets at your desired depth.

Remove the seating stem from the seating die.

Loosen the lock nut on the seating die.

Run a loaded round into the die.

Slowly screw the die down.

You will get resistance.

Stop.

Pull the round out of the die.

Screw it a tiny bit.

Run the round through it.

You will feel slight resistance.

Check the amount of crimp.

Probably very light.

Screw the die down a bit more.

Until you get the desired crimp.

As Jeff says, takes more time to explain than to do.

Never needed a crimp with cast boolits or 400/410 grainers and H4831 SC loads because there was no room for compression under recoil. Used the set-up Saeed describes to seat 350-grainers, but always at the cannelure of Barnes, etc. Buckled a few cases learning, though. Hey, I have a bunch of related reloading stuff I'll never use again -- sold the rifle with reloads and dies back when. PM me if you'd like them shipped to you. Not much weight and the pleasure/memories would be mine.

I don’t crimp my .416 Rigby round and haven’t had any issues. I do have a .416 Rigby crimp die that I’ve never used. I think it is 7/4x14.

You have jogged my memory on crimping. Seems I did crimp with the seating die when I had the 500AR. My son wants to use the Rigby on cape buffalo next year. Right now it's practice ammo. We will see if crimping is needed. Karl what brand is your crimp die?

Not sure what brand my die is, I’ll look when we get home.

OTW, Live Oak. Enjoy!

quote:

Originally posted by Saeed:
Good advice above.

Make sure your cases are the same length.

Seat your bullets at your desired depth.

Remove the seating stem from the seating die.

Loosen the lock nut on the seating die.

Run a loaded round into the die.

Slowly screw the die down.

You will get resistance.

Stop.

Pull the round out of the die.

Screw it a tiny bit.

Run the round through it.

You will feel slight resistance.

Check the amount of crimp.

Probably very light.

Screw the die down a bit more.

Until you get the desired crimp.

As Jeff says, takes more time to explain than to do.

THIS is exactly the way I crimp my 416 Rigby loads.

The most important factor for consistent crimping is to ensure all cases are exactly the same length.
Over crimping can not only cause shoulder buckling but can also lead to an actual reduction in neck tension as the neck is expanded slightly due to the squeeze pressure between the case head and the case mouth. Something has to give as these two extremities of the case are forced together in the crimping or seating die.
Even new cases may require trimming to a consistent length before crimping is attempted.

first I use a file trim die as Its way more accurate.

The I may turn off a 1000 or two off the return button for a snug neck then add powder that nearly fills the case, then seat the bullet. Seems to work as well as a crimp. and lends itself to accuracy. works for me with big bores,and its an option that works for me with some big bores..

Crushed shoulders are the result of too much crimp and human error 99% of the time, it just doesn't take much crimp to work....