Does anyone have a recipe for Case Lube.
I have several thousand casings I'll be running through my Case Master and the Hornady one shot lube is a little expensive when you consider how much will be used.
I will need to be able to spray it on due to taking too much time if I rolled them over a lube pad.
Thanks in advance....

imperial sizing wax ... or kiwi neutral boot polish ... time or money.. your call.. not being rude

Hornady "Unique" case lube
Imperial Sizing Dye Wax (the Imperial may have changed, new owner, but the SDW part is still the same)
Anhydrous Lanolin (local pharmacy) is the base ingredient in the hornady one shit spray, and Unique paste, as well as several others. Note it also makes a good hand cream.

With the ones I mentioned, rub a pea size chunk into the palms of your hands. Than taking several cases at a time, spin them between your palms. That pea size chunk will do several hundred cases.

Agree with Jeff, just buy the Imperial Sizing Wax and be done with it. The problem with Lanolin is it's greasy.

I do use the imperial lube and believe it to be the absolute best, however considering the volume of casings I need to process I want to be able to lay them out on a large cookie sheet and spray them down. In this process it is not imperative that the casing receive a 100% coverage on the case. Dillon's lube I'm told is good but requires a Hazmat fee to ship to Alaska.

Lee' s resizing lube is water soluable, maybe thin it down to a sprayable consistancy?

Go to your pharmacy and buy yourself a bottle of castor oil. You will find in the laxative isle. Soak a small piece of cloth with castor oil and tumble it with your brass in a salad bowl. Stir and tumble until each case has a light film of castor oil. One bottle of castor oil will lubricate at least 2000 5.56 NATO cases. This is about as simple as it gets.

spraying and drying I found to take more time than rolling 12 at a time on a Bardahl saturated cloth. Whatever. roger

Almost any medium viscosity oil will do fine. Automatic transmission fluid (Type A or F, doesn't matter) applied with a saturated cloth is a little less offensive in odor and mess than motor oils. Tumble after sizing to remove the oil effortlessly (although your media will need changing more often if you use it to clean the lube from the cases.)

quote:

Originally posted by Stonecreek:
Almost any medium viscosity oil will do fine. Automatic transmission fluid (Type A or F, doesn't matter) applied with a saturated cloth is a little less offensive in odor and mess than motor oils. Tumble after sizing to remove the oil effortlessly (although your media will need changing more often if you use it to clean the lube from the cases.)

Since petroleum products are death to explosives, powder, primers and such. Why does this seem like it would be a very bad idea?

If the petroleum products are removed from the cartridge cases before reloading, death will not occur.

I have ran thousand rounds on an RCBS lube pad with one bottle of RCBS case lube and still have lube left.
HOW MUCH LUBE DO YOU USE..?

quote:

Originally posted by Gojoe:

quote:

Originally posted by Stonecreek:
Almost any medium viscosity oil will do fine. Automatic transmission fluid (Type A or F, doesn't matter) applied with a saturated cloth is a little less offensive in odor and mess than motor oils. Tumble after sizing to remove the oil effortlessly (although your media will need changing more often if you use it to clean the lube from the cases.)

Since petroleum products are death to explosives, powder, primers and such. Why does this seem like it would be a very bad idea?

Tumble after sizing to remove the oil effortlessly

It seems that some of us fail to completely read before responding.

Regardless, most products sold specifically as case lubricants contain petroleum-based oils. And yes, they need to be completely removed from the brass prior to loading for best performance and dependability.

In 1957 while using Vaseline as a lube a fair quantity of it got into many of my primer pockets. How it happened I can't remember but it did. A lot of poor or no ignition. That was a while back ,I continue to use petroleum base lubes ( Bardahl) and I haven't seen the problem since. Pure luck I guess. roger

quote:

Originally posted by vines:
I have ran thousand rounds on an RCBS lube pad with one bottle of RCBS case lube and still have lube left.
HOW MUCH LUBE DO YOU USE..?

+1. years ago, I bought two little bottles of the RCBS lube. the second bottle is still unopened.

quote:

Originally posted by Stonecreek:

quote:

Originally posted by Gojoe:

quote:

Originally posted by Stonecreek:
Almost any medium viscosity oil will do fine. Automatic transmission fluid (Type A or F, doesn't matter) applied with a saturated cloth is a little less offensive in odor and mess than motor oils. Tumble after sizing to remove the oil effortlessly (although your media will need changing more often if you use it to clean the lube from the cases.)

Since petroleum products are death to explosives, powder, primers and such. Why does this seem like it would be a very bad idea?

Tumble after sizing to remove the oil effortlessly

It seems that some of us fail to completely read before responding.

Regardless, most products sold specifically as case lubricants contain petroleum-based oils. And yes, they need to be completely removed from the brass prior to loading for best performance and dependability.

I do read completely, and I will not use petroleun base lubes in reloading. There is always a chance that the cases didn't get clean enough just that one time. No thanks, proper case lube is too easy to get and a bottle of RCBS lube last for years. To each his own.

i think a shop rag "soaked" with imperial, in a gallon ziplock, rubbed around with the brass, would work as good, and quicker, than spraying and waiting ... i might have to try that...

or just wipe your fingers over the wax every third case as you handle them to put them into the press...

that works for me and 223

The Lee waterbased case lube and a plastic container; one tube will lube thousands of cases.

Just dump cases in container, squirt a little lub on top and shake. Leave to dry og process at once. It is water soluble, clean finished rounds with a damp cloth, or all cases after sizing in soapy hot water.

quote:

Originally posted by Gojoe:

quote:

Originally posted by Stonecreek:

quote:

Originally posted by Gojoe:

quote:

Originally posted by Stonecreek:
Almost any medium viscosity oil will do fine. Automatic transmission fluid (Type A or F, doesn't matter) applied with a saturated cloth is a little less offensive in odor and mess than motor oils. Tumble after sizing to remove the oil effortlessly (although your media will need changing more often if you use it to clean the lube from the cases.)

Since petroleum products are death to explosives, powder, primers and such. Why does this seem like it would be a very bad idea?

Tumble after sizing to remove the oil effortlessly

It seems that some of us fail to completely read before responding.

Regardless, most products sold specifically as case lubricants contain petroleum-based oils. And yes, they need to be completely removed from the brass prior to loading for best performance and dependability.

I do read completely, and I will not use petroleun base lubes in reloading. There is always a chance that the cases didn't get clean enough just that one time. No thanks, proper case lube is too easy to get and a bottle of RCBS lube last for years. To each his own.

OK roger

Imperial lube (now sold by Redding I think). I bought a small tin and later a large one as I liked it so much. Thousands of loads out of the small can so far. It just wipes off.

If you want consistent headspace you want to lube evenly over all cases.

I have a tin of Imperial that i've had for 25 years or more and there is a lot left.
Sno Seal is sold as a waterproofing for boots and it works well for sizing cases as well. It's 100% beeswax, same as Imperial.

Stepchild

One thing thats close to free and works is dishwashingliquide; same procedure as with the Lee-stuff.

Used this back when I had a FAL which needed huge amounts of ammo:-)

Imperial Sizing Wax - works easily, non-sticky and wash off easily. I us to dip the case neck in the wax to lube the inside of the case neck, then wipe it on the outside and over the case body. Will never go back to any spray lube or other brands.

I have been trying to use up the Lee case lube I have, I just put a little on an RCBS pad. Cant seem to run myself out of the damn stuff though. I have used wd-40 on a pad with no problems. I would use lighter sewing machine type oil before something like ATF. But thats just me.

when I'm playing around and need to size one or a few more cases, I finger apply a mixture of wax and 10W30. It's a bit pasty and does not facilitate large numbers of cases. Just handy on the bench all the time. roger

While you are in Walmart wander back to the auto dept. Pick up a quart of STP. You now have a life time of case lube.
Tumble your cases when you return from the range, lube and size the cases tumble them again. Check for kernels in the flash hole, seat primers, pour in powder, seat bullets, you are done.

Jim

quote:

Originally posted by arkypete:
While you are in Walmart wander back to the auto dept. Pick up a quart of STP. You now have a life time of case lube.
Tumble your cases when you return from the range, lube and size the cases tumble them again. Check for kernels in the flash hole, seat primers, pour in powder, seat bullets, you are done.


Jim

Now you're giving Bardahl competition Arky. roger