Generally, what does one look for in selecting a powder, i.e., in an 06 case?

Light-for-caliber vs heavy-for-caliber bullets

Is it basically, SLOWER POWDERS for HEAVY-for-caliber bullets?

Does one search the reloading manuals only for max velocities?

Would like to understand how this all correlates in relation to burn rates...Thanks!

I look for a powder that will fill the case to about 90% capacity with what ever weight bullet I am interested in trying. This is usually a little on the slow side, such as one of the 4350s or R19 in the 30-06.
I might experiment with a powder a step up or down in speed from there if I`m not happy with the results.
Others I`m sure like to go with faster powder and some much slower....YMMV

Hi Late Bloomer,

I am in the middle of the same dilemma myself, I suggest you have a look at the following as it has a lot of very useful information and providing you know what projectile your using an the B.C. there is even calculator to work out drop etc.

www.ammoguide.com

Cheers,

Jeff Gray

for 180 grains and down I reach for 4064... for over 180s I reach for 4831SC...

I have been reloading for about 15 years and here in New Zealand we do not get the great choice in powders you get in the US. Having said that powder technology has improved a lot & so you get the old tech powders like Winchester ball and the IMRs while you get more modern powders like Vhitavouri, Reloader & Ram Shot (not available in NZ).

Hodgedon is more modern technology than Win & IMR.

So I have arrived at the thumb rule of using Hodgedon or VV & in the 30'06 I would use Varget with 150 gr, H4350 with 165s & H4831Sc with 180 gr.

With VV I would use N150 with 150gr, N160 with 165gr & N560 with 180 or more.

I would use the same logic with Reloader powders.

quote:

Is it basically, SLOWER POWDERS for HEAVY-for-caliber bullets?

Yes.

But, in application, just use the powder(s) your manual suggests for any given bullet weight. No need for us to try to figger out if we need a "faster/slower" powder; we paid for the books so experts could tell us what works. ??

other than 180gr in a 30-06=rel22, all other bets are off...

i use h335 for everything from 223 to 550 express ...

What Jim C sez makes it easy for us all. Look at the books, one assumes you have several, and see which powder(s) will give you the top velocity --not that you necassarily want top velocity-- while filling the case full enough to preclude a double charge. The Sierra load book actually list what they found to be the most accurate load.
Look on your shelf and see if you've got that powder on hand. If not, check the powders on either side of the best one. Do you have those? If not, it looks like a trip to the powder store is in order.
After you have reloaded for a while, you'll gain an innate feeling for which powder(s) would work best for a certain sized catridge.
Basically, your premise is correct.

quote:

Originally posted by Late-Bloomer:
Generally, what does one look for in selecting a powder, i.e., in an 06 case?

Is it basically, SLOWER POWDERS for HEAVY-for-caliber bullets?

Does one search the reloading manuals only for max velocities?

Would like to understand how this all correlates in relation to burn rates...Thanks!

"Slower powders for heavy calibers" is basically true as the heavier calibers normally have larger cases and can take more (i.e. slower powders). It's always a good idea to try to find a powder that fills the case up to where the bullet will get seated (usually up to the bottom of the shoulder).

Of course, barrel length may play a part. I have a .308 w/ a 20" barrel, so I selected a fast-burning powder (IMR4198) that would burn completely in the barrel. If I had a longer barrel, I would have used a slower powder (4064, 4895, Varget).

Ballistic computer software can aid you in picking the appropriate powder based on your caliber, rifle, bullet weight, etc. The one I use (Load From a Disk) looks to fill the case to 90%. The old Homer Ballistic Computer did the same thing. I wish I could find mine.

As for using reloading manuals, they are a safety guideline only. Using a chronograph and ballistic computer software allows you to push the envelope, if that is what you are interested in doing. I look at all the manuals and try not to exceed the lowest maximum load in any of them, although I know that the rifle I use will safely take a more powerful load than what any of them state is safe.

Thanks folks!

I gotcha

If you are loading for a 30/06 M1 Garand you should use powders of medium burning rate, from IMR 3031 to no slower than IMR 4064.

Some people do make an adjustable gas plug, that will allow you to use shorter powders however.

heavier/longer bullets offer more resitance & work better w/ slower powders. Shorter/lighter bullets will work better w/ medium burners. Bore dia & case cap paly into thsi, so it's not gospel. I get great results in my 338-06 w/ 210grNP & compressed loads of H4350 or RL19.

I like a full case, but don't care much for compressing. I use alot of compressed loads, but prefer them to have just alittle space after seating. Seems some carts mandate compressed loads to get proper performance. 06,08, and shorties to name a few...

quote:

Originally posted by fredj338:
heavier/longer bullets offer more resitance & work better w/ slower powders. Shorter/lighter bullets will work better w/ medium burners. Bore dia & case cap paly into thsi, so it's not gospel. I get great results in my 338-06 w/ 210grNP & compressed loads of H4350 or RL19.

Thanks Fred...That was the kind of explanation I needed



Thanks to everyone who chimed in

In general, here are the factors that would lead you to a slower powder:

1. A sharp bottle neck.
2. Larger capacity.
3. Heavier bullet
4. Longer barrel.