I JUST BOUGHT 100 .308 LAPUA CASES. WOULD LIKE SOME INFO ON FIREFORMING IE. RECOMMENDED LOADS. DO I TRIM/SQUARE CASEMOUTH, SQUARE PRIMER POCKET AND DEBURR AFTER THE CASE HAS BEEN FIREFORMED? SUGGESTIONS ANYONE?

I would just load and shoot. You already have the best 308 brass there is in my opinion.....

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I would just load and shoot. You already have the best 308 brass there is in my opinion

If you feel you really need to then simply use a normal load and go shooting then do your trim, pockets etc. I've found Lapua very consistant and wouldn't fool with it unless I was in long range competition.

If you are loading for a factory chamber just load and shoot.

If you had a competition rifle with a tight neck chamber and you trimmed the necks to fit then you may want to fireform before competition.
I turn 6BR Lapua brass into a 30BR so I have to fireform in my match rifle. Fireforming will do nothing for you in a factory rifle.

Don't know what the intended purpose of your brass is but anytime I get new brass, my first step in case prep is to load it up and shoot it.

THANKS GUYS FOR YOUR INSIGHT. I GUESS 78.00 PER 100 CASES SHOULD CUT DOWN ON PREP AND GIVE SOME DEGREE OF CONSISTANCY.

Yep, load and shoot, lapua is awesome. Now, welcome to the site, no need to yell (turn your caps lock off).

I only use Lapua for my match rifles. For hunting rifles and ammo, I use domestic. Buy a 100, fire cull it and have plenty of cases and money left over.

Has there ever been any "DOCUMENTED" comparative test data comparing or contrasting ,if you will, Lapua brass to most other brass ? I'm not thinking opinion or VAST experience. roger

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Originally posted by bartsche:
Has there ever been any "DOCUMENTED" comparative test data comparing or contrasting ,if you will, Lapua brass to most other brass ? I'm not thinking opinion or VAST experience. roger

For sure. Go hang out on Snipers Hide or 6mmbr.com.

You may also want to read the many issues of Precision Shooting magazine on this matter

I have done my own comparisons of Lapua and Rem brass for my own use. After 20 loadings of Lapua for my 30BR the primer pockets are very tight. I can't get this many loads out of my Rem brass. I also just crushed a Rem and a Lapua with pliers and the Lapua is twice as hard to crush.
I got some Lapua 260 Rems and necked them up for my 7mm08 and I loaded them hot enough to flatten primers really good and no stuck case and no loose primer pockets either. If I load a Rem that hot the case would be stuck in the chamber a little and the primer pocket would get loose.
Just my simple test to prove the quality of the Lapua to myself.

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Originally posted by bartsche:
Has there ever been any "DOCUMENTED" comparative test data comparing or contrasting ,if you will, Lapua brass to most other brass ? I'm not thinking opinion or VAST experience. roger

yep .. look up the equipment listing for the top ten at any recent benchrest matches - bet you can find a sample set as large as you'd like

Precision Shooting Magazine or no,
if the rest of the equipment and shooter is not up to the last .200 or so in group size I doubt that Lapua or any other brand means much except in the case (bad pun) of the 6 PPC. The 6 PPC benefitted from the Sako .220 Russian brass having a small primer and undersize flash hole.

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Originally posted by GUNPOWDER45:
I JUST BOUGHT 100 .308 LAPUA CASES. WOULD LIKE SOME INFO ON FIREFORMING IE. RECOMMENDED LOADS. DO I TRIM/SQUARE CASEMOUTH, SQUARE PRIMER POCKET AND DEBURR AFTER THE CASE HAS BEEN FIREFORMED? SUGGESTIONS ANYONE?

Just from the nature of his question, I don’t know if he’ll see any difference in any brand of brass he may use. Good grief, it’s just a piece of brass.

If you own a hunting rifle, Lapua brass is not going to make it a target rifle.

I've done quite a bit of work using Rem brass and Lapua for a .223 XR-100. You can either pay the extra money in cash for the Lapua, or you can pay the money in sweat equity.
After you neck turn and uniform the domestic brass and fire cull it, You've got a good bit of time and effort into it. But it ends up pretty good stuff.
I did some work for a 22-250 VS with Rem brass and Norma brass. I only bought that one batch of Norma (100 cases) and I thought it was junk. I had to do everything to the Norma that I did to the Rem. And it was soft. My standard load in the Rem brass in short order was splitting necks and opening up primer pockets. I started out a season of competition with 100 Norma cases and it didn't last the season.
IMO, if you're shooting a factory box gun, and hunting is your interest, you're wasting money if you buy Lapua.
As I posted somewhere else, to gain any advantage from buying premium brass and going through all of the anal case preps that some folks brag about, you need a competitive bench set-up and your own bench technique has got to be top notch.

The reason I posed the question is that last week using reformed nny 7.62 x 39 brass in my Stevens Mod 200, 22 PPC Shaw barrel, Tru Glo scope ETC., I shot some fantastic ( for me ) groups .
With me shooting ,all else the same, I doubt that Lapua Brass would have made a bit of difference.