One of Us
| I usually start from 25-06 if I have too much time on hand |
| | |
One of Us
| If you lube the neck inside and out, it ought to work with one pass of the die. I don't even know if it would fit, but if there is a chance of a redone 30-06 cartridge being loaded into a .270, I don't think I'd do it.
Aim for the exit hole
|
| | | Posts: 4348 | Location: middle tenn | Registered: 09 December 2009 | 
IP
|
|
One of Us
| Mark one with a Sharpie pen...no resizing required...or nail polish if you worried about the Sharpie wearing off. |
| | |
One of Us
| Beat me to the Sharpie. I color the primers of different loads to track them. They also have a paint pen now so you could fill the headstamp in with different colors of paint.
A bad day at the range is better than a good day at work.
|
| | | Posts: 1254 | Location: Norfolk, Va | Registered: 27 December 2003 |
IP
|
|
one of us
| Make sure to check your OAL the 270 starts out longer it will shorten some as you neck it up but it still might be too long. I mark a lot of loads with a Sharpie
As usual just my $.02
Paul K
|
| | |
One of Us
| I have done this before, I would anneal the necks after you are done though. |
| | |
one of us
| It is best done with a tapered expander. Some dies come with a tapered expander button, but most use a simple ball on the end which is a bit less conducive to neck-up operatons. If you have or can get an intermediate 7mm (.284") expander then you might want to do it in two steps. Sometimes a "neck-up" tends to leave the neck walls less consistent in thickness, but likely not so much as to cause a problem.
Don't worry about you or someone else chambering a .30-06 made on .270 brass in a .270 -- it simply won't go.
Nonetheless, I like the idea of painting the case head better than using reformed .270 brass -- unless you have a lot of the .270, it is cheap or free, and you have no .270 in which to use it. |
| | | Posts: 13242 | Location: Henly, TX, USA | Registered: 04 April 2001 |
IP
|
|
One of Us
| Just use a 165 partition on everything and be happy. |
| | | Posts: 13978 | Location: http://www.tarawaontheweb.org/tarawa2.jpg | Registered: 03 December 2008 |
IP
|
|
One of Us
| quote: Originally posted by londonhunter:
I usually start from 25-06 if I have too much time on hand
In that case maybe I should start with a .257 Weatherby!  |
| | | Posts: 11731 | Location: London, UK | Registered: 02 September 2007 |
IP
|
|
One of Us
| quote: Originally posted by wasbeeman:
If you lube the neck inside and out, it ought to work with one pass of the die. I don't even know if it would fit, but if there is a chance of a redone 30-06 cartridge being loaded into a .270, I don't think I'd do it.
Thank you beeman. No fear of it being chambered in a .270 as I don't have one. |
| | | Posts: 11731 | Location: London, UK | Registered: 02 September 2007 |
IP
|
|
One of Us
| quote: Originally posted by Sam:
Beat me to the Sharpie. I color the primers of different loads to track them. They also have a paint pen now so you could fill the headstamp in with different colors of paint.
quote: Originally posted by 450/400:
Mark one with a Sharpie pen...no resizing required...or nail polish if you worried about the Sharpie wearing off.
Thank you chaps, I do use the marker pen method during load development so it's a good idea. A slight problem has been that once the cases get tumbled it can rub off on a few of them but the tip about filling the headstamp is noted. |
| | | Posts: 11731 | Location: London, UK | Registered: 02 September 2007 |
IP
|
|
One of Us
| quote: Originally posted by midminnesota:
I have done this before, I would anneal the necks after you are done though.
Cheers for that, Norma is usually pretty good from the factory but I'll certainly look into it. quote: Originally posted by ramrod340:
Make sure to check your OAL the 270 starts out longer it will shorten some as you neck it up but it still might be too long.
I mark a lot of loads with a Sharpie
Thanks Paul, good stuff and I will check case length after I'm done. quote: Originally posted by Stonecreek:
It is best done with a tapered expander. Some dies come with a tapered expander button, but most use a simple ball on the end which is a bit less conducive to neck-up operatons. If you have or can get an intermediate 7mm (.284") expander then you might want to do it in two steps. Sometimes a "neck-up" tends to leave the neck walls less consistent in thickness, but likely not so much as to cause a problem.
Don't worry about you or someone else chambering a .30-06 made on .270 brass in a .270 -- it simply won't go.
Nonetheless, I like the idea of painting the case head better than using reformed .270 brass -- unless you have a lot of the .270, it is cheap or free, and you have no .270 in which to use it.
Thank you for the in-depth post Stonecreek,you nailed it in your last paragraph. I've found a source of .270 brass from a Forestry Commission ranger friend who doesn't reload. I casually asked if he kept his brass and am now due about 300 pieces. I intend to give most to a friend who has a .270 but if I can make it work for my day to day deer load in the UK, then it's a result. |
| | | Posts: 11731 | Location: London, UK | Registered: 02 September 2007 |
IP
|
|
One of Us
| quote: Originally posted by SR4759:
Just use a 165 partition on everything and be happy.
For various reasons, this would not work. |
| | | Posts: 11731 | Location: London, UK | Registered: 02 September 2007 |
IP
|
|
