30 April 2012, 00:36
GhubertNecking up .270 to 30.06
Gents a quick question if I may, can one sucessfully neck up .270 cases to .30-06?
I prefer Norma cases for my 30.06 but need to be able to distinguish two externally very similar loads (180 grain partitions and 165 gr Speers) quickly and easily.
I have read that folk use different headstamped brass for different loads but have access shed load of norma .270 brass as well as my own .30.06 stuff.
This would be for domestic consumption, so no travel issues, and I have ordinary .30-06 loading dies.
With thanks,
30 April 2012, 00:53
londonhunterI usually start from 25-06 if I have too much time on hand
30 April 2012, 01:05
wasbeemanIf you lube the neck inside and out, it ought to work with one pass of the die. I don't even know if it would fit, but if there is a chance of a redone 30-06 cartridge being loaded into a .270, I don't think I'd do it.
30 April 2012, 01:08
450/400Mark one with a Sharpie pen...no resizing required...or nail polish if you worried about the Sharpie wearing off.
Beat me to the Sharpie. I color the primers of different loads to track them. They also have a paint pen now so you could fill the headstamp in with different colors of paint.
30 April 2012, 02:58
ramrod340Make sure to check your OAL the 270 starts out longer it will shorten some as you neck it up but it still might be too long.
I mark a lot of loads with a Sharpie
30 April 2012, 03:48
midminnesotaI have done this before, I would anneal the necks after you are done though.
30 April 2012, 06:45
StonecreekIt is best done with a tapered expander. Some dies come with a tapered expander button, but most use a simple ball on the end which is a bit less conducive to neck-up operatons. If you have or can get an intermediate 7mm (.284") expander then you might want to do it in two steps. Sometimes a "neck-up" tends to leave the neck walls less consistent in thickness, but likely not so much as to cause a problem.
Don't worry about you or someone else chambering a .30-06 made on .270 brass in a .270 -- it simply won't go.
Nonetheless, I like the idea of painting the case head better than using reformed .270 brass -- unless you have a lot of the .270, it is cheap or free, and you have no .270 in which to use it.
30 April 2012, 09:16
SR4759Just use a 165 partition on everything and be happy.
30 April 2012, 11:37
Ghubertquote:
Originally posted by londonhunter:
I usually start from 25-06 if I have too much time on hand
In that case maybe I should start with a .257 Weatherby!

30 April 2012, 11:39
Ghubertquote:
Originally posted by wasbeeman:
If you lube the neck inside and out, it ought to work with one pass of the die. I don't even know if it would fit, but if there is a chance of a redone 30-06 cartridge being loaded into a .270, I don't think I'd do it.
Thank you beeman.
No fear of it being chambered in a .270 as I don't have one.
30 April 2012, 11:42
Ghubertquote:
Originally posted by Sam:
Beat me to the Sharpie. I color the primers of different loads to track them. They also have a paint pen now so you could fill the headstamp in with different colors of paint.
quote:
Originally posted by 450/400:
Mark one with a Sharpie pen...no resizing required...or nail polish if you worried about the Sharpie wearing off.
Thank you chaps, I do use the marker pen method during load development so it's a good idea.
A slight problem has been that once the cases get tumbled it can rub off on a few of them but the tip about filling the headstamp is noted.
30 April 2012, 11:48
Ghubertquote:
Originally posted by midminnesota:
I have done this before, I would anneal the necks after you are done though.
Cheers for that, Norma is usually pretty good from the factory but I'll certainly look into it.
quote:
Originally posted by ramrod340:
Make sure to check your OAL the 270 starts out longer it will shorten some as you neck it up but it still might be too long.
I mark a lot of loads with a Sharpie
Thanks Paul, good stuff and I will check case length after I'm done.
quote:
Originally posted by Stonecreek:
It is best done with a tapered expander. Some dies come with a tapered expander button, but most use a simple ball on the end which is a bit less conducive to neck-up operatons. If you have or can get an intermediate 7mm (.284") expander then you might want to do it in two steps. Sometimes a "neck-up" tends to leave the neck walls less consistent in thickness, but likely not so much as to cause a problem.
Don't worry about you or someone else chambering a .30-06 made on .270 brass in a .270 -- it simply won't go.
Nonetheless, I like the idea of painting the case head better than using reformed .270 brass -- unless you have a lot of the .270, it is cheap or free, and you have no .270 in which to use it.
Thank you for the in-depth post Stonecreek,you nailed it in your last paragraph. I've found a source of .270 brass from a Forestry Commission ranger friend who doesn't reload. I casually asked if he kept his brass and am now due about 300 pieces. I intend to give most to a friend who has a .270 but if I can make it work for my day to day deer load in the UK, then it's a result.
30 April 2012, 11:48
Ghubertquote:
Originally posted by SR4759:
Just use a 165 partition on everything and be happy.
For various reasons, this would not work.