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Crimping hell
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I've had nothing but bad luck getting proper crimping on 9mm. 40mm,& 45 ACP.
I only have the problem on Auto pistols. What is the secret??
I use Rcbs carbide dies. But everything I load jams sooner or later??
Is there a crimp only die to get this??
HELP!!!! Mad
Thanks Marc


Joshua 24:15
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Posts: 1899 | Location: Alaska | Registered: 03 May 2001Reply With Quote
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Lee


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Posts: 7361 | Location: South East Missouri | Registered: 23 November 2005Reply With Quote
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+1 lee factory crimp die will make your life much more simple.
 
Posts: 300 | Location: louisiana | Registered: 04 January 2010Reply With Quote
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Actualy the crimp die in the Lee 4 die set is all you need


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Posts: 7361 | Location: South East Missouri | Registered: 23 November 2005Reply With Quote
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A taper or a roll crimp?


Joshua 24:15
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"Multitudes loose the sight of that which is, by setting their eyes on that which is not".
 
Posts: 1899 | Location: Alaska | Registered: 03 May 2001Reply With Quote
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Taper only for auto pistol rounds. They head space off the case mouth.


Larry

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Posts: 3942 | Location: Kansas USA | Registered: 04 February 2002Reply With Quote
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Do yourself a favor: bell only as much as you absolutely have to bell in order to get the bullet to go into the case, and then taper crimp. Once you have done that, take a loaded round, put the nose of the bullet against the edge of your load table, and push against the case head, trying to dislodge the bullet. If it won't move you are where you need to be. If it moves, add more crimp.

The other thing is that your cases must all be the same length. A shorter case isn't going to crimp as much and won't hold as well. That is probably what you are experiencing. So trim first... shouldn't have to do it but once, but trim first.
 
Posts: 4748 | Location: TX | Registered: 01 April 2005Reply With Quote
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I use the Lee taper crimp dies for both auto pistol and 38 Spl revolver loads.
 
Posts: 8169 | Location: humboldt | Registered: 10 April 2002Reply With Quote
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quote:
Do yourself a favor: bell only as much as you absolutely have to bell in order to get the bullet to go into the case, and then taper crimp.

I've used RCBS and Hornady and have never had an issue. Minimum bell and taper crimp


As usual just my $.02
Paul K
 
Posts: 12881 | Location: Mexico, MO | Registered: 02 April 2001Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by Doubless:
Do yourself a favor: bell only as much as you absolutely have to bell in order to get the bullet to go into the case, and then taper crimp. Once you have done that, take a loaded round, put the nose of the bullet against the edge of your load table, and push against the case head, trying to dislodge the bullet. If it won't move you are where you need to be. If it moves, add more crimp.

The other thing is that your cases must all be the same length. A shorter case isn't going to crimp as much and won't hold as well. That is probably what you are experiencing. So trim first... shouldn't have to do it but once, but trim first.


Amen, that said it all. Do as Doubless say and you would not have any problems. All new pistol dies are taper crimp.
 
Posts: 323 | Registered: 17 April 2010Reply With Quote
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I don't crimp at all; just make sure your bell is pushed back so it will chamber, for autos. You are trying too hard. For revolvers, maybe a bit of crimp. BTW, I have never trimmed a pistol case in my life and I didn't start re-loading yesterday.
 
Posts: 17441 | Location: USA | Registered: 02 August 2009Reply With Quote
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I just loaded some 9mm today and I really like the Lee Factory Crimp Die. This uses a collet that squeezes the case from the sides rather than coming from the top like a taper crimp in a seating die. It also does not require the accurate trimming that a good taper crimp needs.

It is cheap and easy.
 
Posts: 121 | Registered: 12 July 2009Reply With Quote
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