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Crimping hell

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28 January 2013, 04:39
MADDOG
Crimping hell
I've had nothing but bad luck getting proper crimping on 9mm. 40mm,& 45 ACP.
I only have the problem on Auto pistols. What is the secret??
I use Rcbs carbide dies. But everything I load jams sooner or later??
Is there a crimp only die to get this??
HELP!!!! Mad
Thanks Marc


Joshua 24:15
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My granddaughter
"Multitudes loose the sight of that which is, by setting their eyes on that which is not".
28 January 2013, 04:42
ted thorn
Lee


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28 January 2013, 04:57
sksshooter
+1 lee factory crimp die will make your life much more simple.
28 January 2013, 05:39
ted thorn
Actualy the crimp die in the Lee 4 die set is all you need


________________________________________________
Maker of The Frankenstud Sling Keeper
Proudly made in the USA
Acepting all forms of payment
28 January 2013, 06:20
MADDOG
A taper or a roll crimp?


Joshua 24:15
www.teamfaithfull.net /
My granddaughter
"Multitudes loose the sight of that which is, by setting their eyes on that which is not".
28 January 2013, 06:26
larrys
Taper only for auto pistol rounds. They head space off the case mouth.


Larry

"Peace is that brief glorious moment in history, when everybody stands around reloading" -- Thomas Jefferson
28 January 2013, 06:39
Doubless
Do yourself a favor: bell only as much as you absolutely have to bell in order to get the bullet to go into the case, and then taper crimp. Once you have done that, take a loaded round, put the nose of the bullet against the edge of your load table, and push against the case head, trying to dislodge the bullet. If it won't move you are where you need to be. If it moves, add more crimp.

The other thing is that your cases must all be the same length. A shorter case isn't going to crimp as much and won't hold as well. That is probably what you are experiencing. So trim first... shouldn't have to do it but once, but trim first.
28 January 2013, 08:18
craigster
I use the Lee taper crimp dies for both auto pistol and 38 Spl revolver loads.
28 January 2013, 08:37
ramrod340
quote:
Do yourself a favor: bell only as much as you absolutely have to bell in order to get the bullet to go into the case, and then taper crimp.

I've used RCBS and Hornady and have never had an issue. Minimum bell and taper crimp


As usual just my $.02
Paul K
28 January 2013, 22:22
Reloader270
quote:
Originally posted by Doubless:
Do yourself a favor: bell only as much as you absolutely have to bell in order to get the bullet to go into the case, and then taper crimp. Once you have done that, take a loaded round, put the nose of the bullet against the edge of your load table, and push against the case head, trying to dislodge the bullet. If it won't move you are where you need to be. If it moves, add more crimp.

The other thing is that your cases must all be the same length. A shorter case isn't going to crimp as much and won't hold as well. That is probably what you are experiencing. So trim first... shouldn't have to do it but once, but trim first.


Amen, that said it all. Do as Doubless say and you would not have any problems. All new pistol dies are taper crimp.
29 January 2013, 03:23
dpcd
I don't crimp at all; just make sure your bell is pushed back so it will chamber, for autos. You are trying too hard. For revolvers, maybe a bit of crimp. BTW, I have never trimmed a pistol case in my life and I didn't start re-loading yesterday.
10 February 2013, 05:01
405wcf
I just loaded some 9mm today and I really like the Lee Factory Crimp Die. This uses a collet that squeezes the case from the sides rather than coming from the top like a taper crimp in a seating die. It also does not require the accurate trimming that a good taper crimp needs.

It is cheap and easy.