I have done a search on this with no luck. I have heard that if you shoot moly coated bullets, you cannot go back to regular bullets. Is there any truth behind this?

No.

it's not true but cleaning moly from a bore is a chore. It does not clean well.

Originally posted by Doc:

quote:

it's not true but cleaning moly from a bore is a chore. It does not clean well.

You got that right. The only way I have found to get the bore moly free is to use JB's compound.

I don't think the benefits of using moly are worth the pain it is to clean it.

I love the stuff and just can't get enough of it.Moly=Money in your pocket!

quote:

Originally posted by shootaway:
I love the stuff and just can't get enough of it.Moly=Money in your pocket!

Maybe, but cleaning moly=lots of elbow work=lateral epicondylitis.

I would like to say that most shooters are not bright enough to use a moly regime, but....

There is a really bright engineer on the East coast that sent me all his moly bullets when he went non moly.

He said he struggled to get the moly out of his bores.

Just use Kroil and Flitz at the same time on a patch. That gets the moly out.

Lyman Moly bore creme burnishing will put the moly back in the bore.

Nothing will get the moly off you fingers

thank you everyone for your input. I think I will just tumble the ones I have.

I'll second using Kroil, I was told about using by a guy at Sierra bullets.

You don't need to get all the molly out of your bore.Traces of molly will not adversely effect shooting "naked" bullets. Been there done that.
But if you want to get out the molly, use soapy water on a bore mop. Follow that with acetone or alcohol to get the water out, then run a couple patches with gun oil on them. Done.

muck

Just curious for those of you have shot moly bullets and cleaned.....anyone follow up with a scope to verify?

Doc, I have. I cleaned 2 rifles that I had shot with 'moly's' one with the CT 'lubalox' coated bullets, and the other with bullets I coated with actual Moly from Lyman.

Both barrels were really dark inside before starting the cleanup. The actual moly was more of a grey color, and more evenly distributed through the barrel. The lubalox stuff was very black, and distributed through the barrel in more of a streaky pattern. I did not have wipeout in my arsenal when I cleaned the stuff out of these barrels, so....

Barrel 1, with the CT lubalox stuff, I went after with the BoreTech eliminator, and it got damn near all of it, routine was two patches stroked up and down the bore 3 or 4 times while pretty sopping with the eliminator, followed by 5 or 6 patches, then inspect the bore. A few patches of the stuff still in the barrel.

Next went through the barrel with a nylon brush soaked in the eliminator, 25-30 strokes back and forth, and then a wet patch of the eliminator, and then dry patches--3 or 4. Looked at barrel with borescope and all clean then. Ran a patch with Tetra or Essox through and put her up.

Lyman 'real' moly was a lot harder to get out. The eliminator thing like previous didn't come close. I then did the same procedure with Moly Magic from Bore Tech, and didn't check until after I had repeated that whole process with the Moly Magic. The bore was clean as a whistle then. I don't know if I had gone with the Moly Magic to start with if just one session would have done it, and I haven't cleaned a rifle that I shoot the Lyman stuff in since.

One 270 I have, I shoot 110 gr Lyman coated pills, and I'm north of 250 shots, with no reduction in accuracy or velocity. I think there is some benefit in moly for this gun. I know I would have had to do a thorough cleaning at least 3 or 4 times on this rig if I was shooting regular copper covered pills.

I'm not a huge fan of Moly, it's a PITA, but I don't hate it either like a lot of folks....it seems to do real well in this rifle, and I have several rigs that all I shoot in them is the CT stuff, and they are way up there in shot count without any accuracy degredation either.....heck, I seem to like a little of everything!

I don't hate moly either, but I've been at the range a few times watching guys do their cleaning after a 2 hour stint of shooting them.

I was always under the impression that if you are to use a moly coated bullet, it is best to have a bullet MADE for moly, i.e. it should be slightly smaller in diameter: if the regular bullet is .277, then a bullet made for moly should be .2765 or .2768.

Any thoughts on that?

Doc, as usual you are more sophisticated than me. I just moly'd them up cause I knew this rifle would be a high round count rig. Varmints and paper etc.

I didn't read anything about this (smaller prior to moly coating) in Zedikers stuff, or at least remember so, and have had really good results. Just take the regular 100 gr pills and rumble them around with the moly and the ceramic pellets--works great.....

My cleanup on these rifles, both the Nosler C/T shooting ones, and the one with the Lyman stuff is the same, push a patch through, maybe with a squirt of Tetra, but usually just a dry patch or two, and then shoot it next time I go out....that's my lazy man moly program, it works accuracy wise so far though.

quote:

Originally posted by Doc:
...I was always under the impression that if you are to use a moly coated bullet, it is best to have a bullet MADE for moly, i.e. it should be slightly smaller in diameter: if the regular bullet is .277, then a bullet made for moly should be .2765 or .2768.

Any thoughts on that?

Hey Doc, At the Pressure a Lead Core Bullet is subjected to in any normal high power rifle, the Bullet Obturates to fill the contact patch within the Bore as it moves along, which I'd imagine you know. Due to that, I doubt that having an intentionally undersize Bullet of a few ten-thousandths would make any difference. Our regular production bullets vary in diameter if we measure them with instruments capable of extremely high precision.

As to the monometal Bullets, I'd "guess" the same effect happens with some of them, but not all sizes in all calibers. That is one of the reasons why having the two-diameter design of the Ringed monometal Bullets shoot better "in most rifles" than the old slightly larger than Groove Diameter Designs. That larger diameter increased Pressure, but was necessary.
---

quote:

Originally posted by 1 shot 1 kill:
I heard that if you shoot moly coated bullets, you cannot go back to regular bullets. Is there any truth behind this?

Once you have used a rifle with uncoated bullets and then go to Moly Coated Bullets, it is highly unlikely you will "want" to go back to uncoated.

Just "Burnish" the Bore as "Fish" described to get a good Moly Base in the Bore before you start using them, and follow with a couple of dry patches to remove any excess grease. It is important to do this because excess grease in "some" Bores will actually act as an obstruction.

And you will still need to clean your rifle everytime you take it outdoors, whether it gets shot or not. Then reBurnish the Moly Grease into the Bore and follow with a couple of dry patches.

If you want to use uncoated bullets after using Moly Coated ones, just begin using them and go through your normal cleaning routine. The Moly will not hurt anything and will slowly go away. It will just take awhile for the Bore to look like a "Hall of Mirrors" as they do in barrles without Moly.

Best of luck to you.

Seems like I had a discussion about this with a gentleman at the range a couple of years back. I noticed he had a couple of "bench" rifles, and a few hunting rifles. Had lots of loads with him, and lots of "shooting" decals on his truck.....sparked my interest so I decided to chat with him awhile.

He stated that with the rifles he shoots using moly coated bullets, the bullet diameter is slightly smaller by 1-3 thousandths (he made his own bullets or shot moly Bergers), and the reason was because if he moly coated a regular bullet, most of the effective moly would be shed in the first couple of bullet lengths in the bore on the lands. "Comes right off in the first 2" if it is a standard bullet. The moly that isn't shed by the lands helps in the grooves but that's it."

I don't know. Don't shoot moly bullets, just what I've heard- but it made sense to me. I'll drop a line to Berger and see what they do. I was always under the impression that moly bullets from a manufacturer are slightly undersized in diameter just so the addition of moly brought them up to standard non moly diameter.

quote:

Originally posted by Doc:
...I'll drop a line to Berger and see what they do. ...

Hey Doc, Good idea. What did they say?

Always good to have someone like Walt Berger agree with me.

They said that the moly adds about a "tenth" or "half a tenth" to the overall diameter. But the bare bullets are the same, then moly is added.

The guy at the range makes his own bullets (and I don't know if he makes his own dies or not), but he said he prefered to undersize the bullet, so when moly was added, it was standard size.

Thanks Doc.