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"Pressure Signs"
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<Charliebuck>
posted
I have read many topics in this forum that deal with "pressure signs". Being fairly new to reloading, and wanting to learn as much as I can about it, I was wondering what kind of pressure signs you look for, and if there is a formula that you can use to determine pressure from a given load. Thanks in advance.....Charliebuck
 
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Charliebuck,

That is a perfectly reasonable question. When it blows up in your face, DO NOT blame yourself.

OK, guys . . . have at it!

 
Posts: 2272 | Location: PDR of Massachusetts | Registered: 23 January 2001Reply With Quote
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If you have read many messages in this forum (or any other forum) dealing with pressure, then you should already have the answer. If you don't, then I suggest you do a search on "pressure" or open a few reloading manuals...all of which deal with that topic in detail.

If you don't know what pressure is, and/or don't know what to look for, I would suggest you take up paint-by-numbers instead of reloading...

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Posts: 3282 | Location: Saint Marie, Montana | Registered: 22 May 2002Reply With Quote
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The term is a potentially dangerous one, especially since many folks have their own ideas about what it means, how hot they can load, and yet have no scientific measurement or basis for using "pressure signs" to determine a safe load.

Most reloading manuals have a section on "pressure signs". A huge caveat must be stated before referring to them though, and that is, the term is generally applied only to modern bolt action rifles, not handguns, not leverguns, and not to many other older lock systems.

The term should more correctly be described as OVER PRESSURE signs, as that is exactly what they are, indications that you have loaded beyond safe pressure levels. Back to the caveat about not applying to action types other then modern bolt actions, you can load to unsafe levels in other actions and have no indications, other then the eventual failure of the gun.

For a new reloader I highly recomend reading several reloading manuals thoroughly, and disregarding the majority of things you read on the internet regarding safe loading practices. Only once you have a firm understanding of the basics, can you sort the wheat from the chaff on internet reloading sites.

 
Posts: 7213 | Location: Alaska | Registered: 27 February 2001Reply With Quote
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One of the easiest and earliest signs of high pressure is a bright ring near the base of the cartridge. It actually looks shinier then the rest of the case and you can actually feel a difference with your finger when you run it down the side of the case. The next step up is a blown primer, hat includes holes in the primer, the primer being unseated, and otherwise noticably different from a normally struck primer.

When you pull out a peice of brass and you see any pressure signs on the primer, it's time to load up and go home and turn down your measure a few grains.

 
Posts: 593 | Location: My computer. | Registered: 28 November 2001Reply With Quote
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While not mandatory, I would HIGHLY recommend you purchase even a basic chronograph so that you can compare some of your loads with some of the "baseline" loads as listed in any one of many good reloading manuals available. Sometimes your initiation into a "too hot" load can be damaging to your health. Good luck. Gary.
 
Posts: 1970 | Location: NE Georgia, USA | Registered: 21 March 2002Reply With Quote
<.>
posted
Sticky extraction, hesitant bolt lift, primer flowing around the fireing pin . . .

Visual signs on the web are evident, but sometimes a micrometer on the case shows you stuff you don't see visually.

But the most important aspect of all this is working up the load. You can't play safe when you're jumping into the midst of excess pressure. You need to sneak up on the limits a half grain at a time.

Revolvers show pressure signs. Sticky extraction is one, cratering or flowing of the primer is another.

Stick with published data (PUBLISHED as in a book by a mfg.) Stay away from the online data in forums until you have an idea what you're working with and what is standard for a particular load.

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<Charliebuck>
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Thank you to most. Recono, and Ricciadelli, thank you as well for your intelligent responce!!!!!!
 
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Charliebuck, you are wise to ask the question if you don't know. I don't know why some members think it cool to kick someone who doesn't know everything. I guess they have forgotten what it was like when they didn't know it all. (Or think they do.)

As for an answer to your question, I think Genghis gave it to you in a nutshell. His responses have always served me well.

However, I would differ with the suggestion that you need to go buy a chronograph to know where you are with pressure. The chronograph measures velocity...period. And your velocities may or may not have much to do with your pressures. This is a dangerous and non-existant correlation in my book. As a couple suggested, load UP towards maximum. Don't start at maximum and this is true when you change components or make major adjustment in reloading as well. (Example - Bullet seating depth)

Do your homework and ask again if you need to. For sure there will be some guys on here who know the answer and won't be hairlipped for sharing it.

Happy trails!


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A well placed bullet is worth 1,000 ft/lbs of energy.

[This message has been edited by Pecos45 (edited 04-23-2002).]

 
Posts: 19677 | Location: New Mexico | Registered: 23 May 2002Reply With Quote
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