I feel briliant...

Yes, until someone elbows the ctg. box over and they all dump out on the bench (don't ask how this was discovered).

I really like marking numbers or colors on the primers with a fine sharpie, with cooresponding data in my notebook.

The writeing is on the case not the box....I do it the same way only I write a lot smaller and just above the case head.

Are you using permanent magic marker or a washable kind? How easily do the markings tumble off the brass?

I do this all the time, for load dev .. mine say things like "109gr h335" though
not a misprint .. some of my stuff eats that much powder!

Yep, after knocking a boxo of test loads over, I went to marking them w/ a Sharpie too. Brilliant minds do think alike.

quote:

Originally posted by Mort Canard:
Are you using permanent magic marker or a washable kind? How easily do the markings tumble off the brass?

Sharpie markers are what I use and no it doesn't tumble of all that good. I wipe the marker off with thinner before I toss them in the tumbler.

I write on mine even after I have a well worked load. Some of my boxes have run-out writen on the bottom in one didget numbers depicting thousands TIR....0,1,2,3,4,5, ect.

I write on the case with a small Sharpie. I'll put 65SC to tell me a year from now it's loaded with 65 grains of H4831SC. 65RL22 tells me it's 65 grains of RL-22. I always use the same bullet-- the 180-grain Sierra Matchking so there is no confusion, there. The only other bullet I ever use for target shootin' is the 178-grain Hornady A-max, which is visually different from the Sierra offering...

I've been using an ultra fine sharpie to write on my cases for years. Works great. I use a small dab of Hoppes #9 on a rag to wipe it off before I drop them in the tumbler to polish. Hoppes takes it off very well with no problems.

quote:

Originally posted by Slowpoke Slim:
I've been using an ultra fine sharpie to write on my cases for years. Works great. I use a small dab of Hoppes #9 on a rag to wipe it off before I drop them in the tumbler to polish. Hoppes takes it off very well with no problems.

Exactly the same marking system and cleaner I have used for almost 40 years.

When doing load development, I use a sharpie to put a colored dot on the primer, and a 3x5 card in the ammo box which translates color to the appropriate recipe.

Decapping removes the "markings" so the brass is "clean" for the next use. And yes, I suppose I'm in trouble if I lose the card at the range, but that has yet to happen, and the same notes on the card are recorded in my notebook back home on my reloading bench.

I've used a fine point Sharpie to mark the primers for my load development for many years. Marks that I use include: a single line, "X" lines, a dot, blacken 1/2 of the primer, blacken all the primer, and no mark. I then draw a circle on the line of that load in my loading notebook, and make the same mark in the circle. If you need more marks, use colors.

Simple and no clean-up needed.

this group of loads is all "51.xgr of 4064"

the number on the case = X

For individual or pairs, I use blue painter's tape and write the load on the excess with a sharpie marker. The tape is sticky enough to stay on, but easy to peal off when I'm ready to shoot. I write the results as soon as I shoot. Nothing is fool-proof to a sufficiently talented fool, but my system really does work quite well.

I'm also needing to carefully watch pressure signs on these, so I want to be able to go back over the cases later and see what I find.

Well, if great minds think alike.....
Like some other reloaders, I marked the powder type and charge on my cases, when applicable. I was really surprised with how well the marking stayed on.

quote:

Originally posted by AZ Pete:
Yes, until someone elbows the ctg. box over and they all dump out on the bench (don't ask how this was discovered).

I really like marking numbers or colors on the primers with a fine sharpie, with cooresponding data in my notebook.

I use a sharpie as well to mark the primers, not the case head or any other part of the case, one small dot for initial charge, two small dots for the next step charge, three small dots for the next etc etc. I'm always sure to make a reference card as to what charge each amount of dots represents. Then at the end of the range session, if the three dots shoots the best, that's my load!

If I'm testing more than one powder, I use a different coloured marker for each type of powder.

I use a sharpie on mine all the time except I mark the primers with dots or Xs to keep the loads seperate. 1 dot, 2 dots, 3 dots, and X, a dash etc etc good ways to keep em seperate and they punch out and leave the case clean.

I have marked the cases in the past and the ink will remove easily with 4/0 steel wool. I use 4/0 to polish my cases all the time. Much faster than tumbling if your not doing a large batch.

Reloader