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Nickel Plating Brass
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While it's still available, I've purchased some brass for a rifle I plan to order in the near future. I would like to have some of it nickel plated. Has anybody had this done or knows of a business that does this? Is there a particular plating process that is used for cartridge brass? Electroless? Something else? Please help me with this if you have any experience having this done. Thank you for any advice you can provide.

wave


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Posts: 771 | Location: Missouri | Registered: 09 January 2011Reply With Quote
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Go to Brownells, they have electroless nickle for brass in their catalog.
 
Posts: 8 | Registered: 10 February 2012Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by Twicepop:
Go to Brownells, they have electroless nickle for brass in their catalog.


I appreciate the response, but I don't know for sure that electroless is the correct method for cartridge brass, and I'd really rather have somebody who knows what they're doing do it for me. This will be used in a dangerous game rifle and mistakes could be unpleasant.


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DRSS; NRA; Illinois State Rifle Association; Missouri Sport Shooting Association

“One of the sad signs of our times is that we have demonized those who produce, subsidized those who refuse to produce, and canonized those who complain.”
– Thomas Sowell, “The Vision Of The Anointed: Self-Congratulation As A Basis For Social Policy”


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Posts: 771 | Location: Missouri | Registered: 09 January 2011Reply With Quote
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When I was at the Shot Show a few years ago there was plating company from the Milw. Wis area that was doing that.
Don't rmember the name maybe a google search wel turn them up
 
Posts: 19703 | Location: wis | Registered: 21 April 2001Reply With Quote
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Picture of eagle27
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by scojac:
quote:
Originally posted by Twicepop:
Go to Brownells, they have electroless nickle for brass in their catalog.


I appreciate the response, but I don't know for sure that electroless is the correct method for cartridge brass, and I'd really rather have somebody who knows what they're doing do it for me. This will be used in a dangerous game rifle and mistakes could be unpleasant.


Not quite sure what you want to achieve with using nickel plated brass. You say you want to purchase some brass while still available, intimating that it maybe hard to get brass in the future for the particular new rifle you are ordering. If you research a bit e.g. visit Remington site FAQ, nickel plated brass does not have quite the life of plain brass because of the etching process required to get the nickel to stick and stay (according to Remington anyway).

In your post you asked quite a few questions including Electroless? but then discarded Twicepop's reply indicating Brownells sell an electroless nickelling product without any other information to support your contention that you don't know that electroless is the correct method. Why ask the question if you already know the answer? Maybe I'm just reading it wrong.

Brownells sell some good stuff and I'm sure there would be instructions with the product. I would have thought it was worth a go, just on any old brass to see how it worked out if you really want or need to nickle plated DG brass.
 
Posts: 3924 | Location: Rolleston, Christchurch, New Zealand | Registered: 03 August 2009Reply With Quote
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posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by eagle27:
quote:
Originally posted by scojac:
quote:
Originally posted by Twicepop:
Go to Brownells, they have electroless nickle for brass in their catalog.


I appreciate the response, but I don't know for sure that electroless is the correct method for cartridge brass, and I'd really rather have somebody who knows what they're doing do it for me. This will be used in a dangerous game rifle and mistakes could be unpleasant.


Not quite sure what you want to achieve with using nickel plated brass. You say you want to purchase some brass while still available, intimating that it maybe hard to get brass in the future for the particular new rifle you are ordering. If you research a bit e.g. visit Remington site FAQ, nickel plated brass does not have quite the life of plain brass because of the etching process required to get the nickel to stick and stay (according to Remington anyway).

In your post you asked quite a few questions including Electroless? but then discarded Twicepop's reply indicating Brownells sell an electroless nickelling product without any other information to support your contention that you don't know that electroless is the correct method. Why ask the question if you already know the answer? Maybe I'm just reading it wrong.

Brownells sell some good stuff and I'm sure there would be instructions with the product. I would have thought it was worth a go, just on any old brass to see how it worked out if you really want or need to nickle plated DG brass.


Eagle27,

You raise several irrelevant questions related to my initial inquiry, but I'll answer anyway. As far as brass availability, the future of this brass maker is in doubt so I got some while it is still available. I'm not too concerned about the life of the nickel plated brass, I need it to be visually different from unplated brass to quickly distinguish loads in the field; ie. solids in plated brass vs. softs in unplated brass.

I did not discard advice, I said that I DO NOT KNOW if electroless is the appropriate process to use to nickel plate brass for rifle cartridges. If I don't know if this is the correct process, why would I proceed with a do-it-yourself project? In other words, I'm asking if somebody here has the expertise in this field to offer advice regarding the correct process.

I also asked if anybody knows of a company who does this kind of work because I DO NOT WANT TO DO IT MYSELF. There is too much at stake to risk my life or the life of my PH or his trackers due to a brass failure because I tried to do something I'm not qualified to do. It's called being responsible.

These were the questions that were the whole point of my original post: What is the correct process and who does it. I don't need opinions concerning whether or not I need it.

As far as Brownell's, I know they sell good stuff. I've been a good and steady customer for going on 25 years now.

And to finish, yes, you are reading it wrong. Still, if you have any useful advice, I'd appreciate it. I'm still looking for answers. Thanks.


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DRSS; NRA; Illinois State Rifle Association; Missouri Sport Shooting Association

“One of the sad signs of our times is that we have demonized those who produce, subsidized those who refuse to produce, and canonized those who complain.”
– Thomas Sowell, “The Vision Of The Anointed: Self-Congratulation As A Basis For Social Policy”


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Posts: 771 | Location: Missouri | Registered: 09 January 2011Reply With Quote
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Call brownells in the morning and ask them.

myself, I don't believe it to be a great idea.. and having softs and solids in different cartridge carriers is likely easier.

what caliber and who is the maker you are concerned with?


opinions vary band of bubbas and STC hunting Club

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Posts: 40016 | Location: Conroe, TX | Registered: 01 June 2002Reply With Quote
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Picture of Doc
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This post is FYI only and not a response to your question. Just thought you might be interested:

A take on nickel brass

quote:
FORGET NICKEL-PLATED BRASS.... I liked the looks and feel of nickel-plated cases, but I don't load them anymore and here is why. The cases are strong and it is easy enough to outside neck turn them. That is not the problem. The nickel-plating on the case neck ID is like sandpaper. The only way you might be able to remove this grit is with a case neck ID reamer if you have a "tight neck" chamber and enough neck wall thickness to work with. If you have a loaded nickel-plated round laying around and don't believe me, just pull the bullet. It will look like you pulled it out of a tube of 180 grit wet/dry sandpaper. If you pull the bullet out of a brass case mouth that has been carefully chamfered and polished with the steel wool process above, it will be essentially like out of the bullet box. Want copper in the barrel? Start by sanding the surface of those nice polished precision bullets. Try it with a Moly Coated bullet and it is even worse; the nickel-plated cases scrape off the Moly. The nickel-plated case neck IDs don't get any better after you reload them a few times. They are still like sandpaper. Think about a few of those nickel pieces of grit imbedding into the copper of the bullet and what they do to your rifle barrel! I have heard that the nickel is hard enough to score some reloading dies and also wear down the expander ball. Any metal that hard, should be kept away from your precision barrel. I have heard that some people have had success in removing the nickel plate from the neck IDs with a stainless steel brush and a drill motor. I haven't tried it.

MORE ABOUT NICKEL PLATING.... This is interesting about the mechanical properties of the nickel plating:
Electrolysis nickel plating is a process for chemically applying nickel-alloy deposits onto metallic substrates using an auto catalytic immersion process without the use of electrical current. ...snip....
Hardness and Wear Resistance
One of the most important properties for many applications is hardness. As deposited, the micro-hardness of electrolysis nickel coatings is about 500 to 700 HK100. That is approximately equal to 45 to 58 HRC and equivalent to many hardened alloy steels. Heat treatment causes these alloys to precipitation harden and can produce hardness values as high as 1100 HK100, equal to most commercial hard chromium coatings. ...snip...

Note that if you anneal your nickel plated necks, you are hardening the nickel plating. It can be harder than many alloyed steels before you anneal and can increase is hardness as much as 2 fold by precipitation hardening. I sure wouldn't want those tiny little hard pieces inside the neck getting embedded in the bullet's copper surface and then fire lapping my nice shiny barrel.


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