Whats the best size Conibear Trap for "cat"?
The baited live trap won't work anymore because after the treatment the cat got last time, it won't go anywhere near it. Still comes in the shop about twice a week and craps on the floor, right where I work. I think it's one of those "catch me if you can" things. The worst part is you don't see the turds till you run over them and it sticks to the tires. Then you have to work around the smell all day. The furry bastard is going to die, one way or another. I like the idea of the "bug eyes" when the trap catches them. 200? 220? Whats the best size? Extra strong springs? I would think more on the line of "hollow point" or "soft point" but the decision on a special trap size has me wondering. Need some input guys. And tell PITA to "Bite Me"! Mike.

quote:

Still comes in the shop about twice a week and craps on the floor, right where I work.

Are you sure it is a crat and not one of your co-workers?

Regards,
Marterius

Why not poison it? I believe it was stated on this very forum that Tylenol is poison to cats. Sprinkle a little on some cat food, sardines, or whatever.

Does it always go in the same spot? If so then perhaps a "Maylay Gate"(sic) is the answer? derf

I think the 200 or especially the 220 would work well. I do remember warning you that this would happen the first time though.

NEVER, under any circumstances should a cat be released alive from a trap..The reason we use live traps is for skunks, to control their spraying..KILL all cats, they would do the same to us.

One thing I have done is to take a clean trap and coat it with cat food and leave it outside for a day or so. This masks the fresh steel unfriendly smell. Does you trap have teeth? If so, make sure they are sharp. I have seen a tunnel of sorts formed with crates with several traps lined up in the tunnel with tempting cat food at the end in a trap. The tunnel must have a roof so the cat can't hop over all the traps. One guy covered the bottom of a large tub with traps and cat food. When the cat jumped into the tub the only option he had was to step into a trap. When he flopped around he got into more of the traps.

OK! Ne ner Ne ner Ne ner. I told you so.( I knew that was coming) I know "now" I never should have turned it loose. But thats history! Everybody is entitled to "One" mistake! Ya think?
The cat craps in the same place every time. Small cracks in the cement. Right in the middle of the floor. Still can't figure out why. Maybe it's "payback"?
Poison is "not" a option! (maybe later if I can't catch the furry shit) I want to see it's eyes bugged out! There's cat food in the trap now but a can of tuna might attract it better.
And there is one turd that we work with but I doubt he would crap on the floor. But maybe??? The steel traps might be an option. The tuna is the next step. Patience and perseverance shall prevail! In other words, I'll get the bastard! One way or another!

A 110 is all you would need in a conibear trap,,There might be too much tension on the trigger for a crat to spring a 220,,which I've tryed for crat with no success,,does rather well for chucks though.a tough piece of beef spoiked through the trigger hairs,,then bend so the bait can't be easily be pulled off should do the trick,,Clay

Figure 4 deadfalls work very nicely in the situation you describe. Use meathead's linch for bait.

I think the two part epoxy put in the cat food would help "stop" the problem, provided it is a veeery slow setting epoxy.

The reason it always goes in the same spot is because it left it's own smell there. You can eliminate the smell or use that info to eliminate said Crat. Obviously the latter option would be the one preferred by this rather jaded group of judges! derf

I don't remember the size # on my Conibears but they are the single spring type with square jaws that are about 8" or 9" long on each side of the square. Tie the trap down as there is about a 1% chance that you could catch the cat by a non vital piece of pu$$y.

I use fishing line and tie a chicken neck or a dead sparrow to the trigger. Great trap. I loaned one trap to a man who had never set a trap before. Gave him a 5 minute training session and he caught 6 cats in two weeks with one trap.

James,,The single springer's are the #110's,,sounds like you have the method down to a "t",,,Happy Cratting,,.Clay

James, I didn't know they allowed such contraptions in the City of Angels?

Dan

POTYHC

www.AndWelcome.AboardToo

DD,

I think you're right about "not allowed". You do have to "run silent, run deep". I live in a rural area and have about 1.2 acres of land so I can conceal the traps I set.

My friend who borrowed a trap likes to live dangerously. He lives in a very fine (but small lots) neighborhood in Orange County.

BTW, I did not know what types of traps were needed until I had a problem. I called a man in Minnesota who advertised in Fish Fur and Game magazine and bought the Conibears at his recomendation.

Jim

Well, it's good there is a resistance movement out there in California! It may be a long battle, but don't ever give up. Right will win out in the end!

Dan

POTYHC

www.GoodCrats.InTheCityOfAngels

Years ago my buddy used a cniber for a crat trap. I think it was a 220. It was about the size of the mouth of a 5 gallon bucke. He wired the trap to the mouth of the bucket, put some meat scraps or a can of tuna in the bucket, lay it on its side, then set the trap. When the crat walked through the opening to get the bait.........
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