I did a search here and still would like more info...

I have a Kudu and Oryx Shoulder-Mount that I want to hang on to Sheetrock...

Has anyone done it before with satisfactory results?

What type of anchor did you use!

Thanks!

I am still waiting for my Kudu and Gemsbok so I have no first hand experience with them. I think the best thing would be to hit a stud. The next would be to use two of the heavy duty hollow wall anchors. The type that spreads out behind the sheetrock as you tighten them down.

There was another discussion here.
http://forums.accuratereloadin.../1821043/m/841101309

My advice is the same.

Get a studfinder and drive a fairly heavy screw into a stud.

I would not trust one of those expanding flange type screws.

Thanks guys, I better not leave it to chance...I appreciate your replies!

If placement dictates that you can't or don't want to hang it on a stud, get a "V" shaped piece of sufficiently heavy steel, attach it to a stud with two screws/bolts, and then attach the mount to the other end of the "V".

Just an option....

An idea that I read in another post was to add a shield/plaque that is offset from the stud. Put heavy bolt in the stud, put a lag bolt in the other side, and then hang the mount on the shield.

I've got a Kudu and Gemsbok shoulder mount in a room with drywall. I found a wall stud and put 5/16" x 3" Lag bolts in to hang both of the mounts. I seriously doubt sheet rock could take the load for a long period of time.

Thanks folks I appreciate the replies!

I decided to not take a chance and find out the hard way...and ask for more problems...

So I'll just play it safe and anchor to the studs and work off that lay-out, I'm sure I can arrange something to my satisfaction with the variety we have coming...I hope...

It's real exciting to come home and find your prize nose-down in the carpet (or worse). It's lots of weight and only a stud-anchored approach will work long-term. Also get a yardstick out and point it out into the room to see what else you need to consider spatially around intended "hanging zones". Part of the fun! (Broken off ears are the pits, I'm told...)

Late-B.,

1/4 inch lag bolt 3 inches long and screw it into a wall stud. All my bigger mounts are hung this way and it works super!!! Don't chance getting a trophy ruined by having it fall.

Hawkeye47

quote:

Originally posted by BNagel:
It's real exciting to come home and find your prize nose-down in the carpet (or worse). It's lots of weight and only a stud-anchored approach will work long-term. Also get a yardstick out and point it out into the room to see what else you need to consider spatially around intended "hanging zones". Part of the fun! (Broken off ears are the pits, I'm told...)

I hear ya...

Thanks again brother!

quote:

Originally posted by Hawkeye47:
Late-B.,

1/4 inch lag bolt 3 inches long and screw it into a wall stud. All my bigger mounts are hung this way and it works super!!! Don't chance getting a trophy ruined by having it fall.

Hawkeye47

Yep, buddy that sounds like the size...

I want'em up and staying up...

I appreciate you sharing what's worked for you...

I used lag bolts similar to Hawkeye except on my Eland I used a 3/8 x 3 1/2 lag bolt. Another thing I did was to weld washers to the heads of the bolts so they would not move when trying to set the animal in place. The washers give a larger diameter inside the plate. No problems so far.

Greg

3/8 lag bolts are the best size, you can hang everything but and Elephant head on them.

Thanks folks...

3/8" lag for insurance...

If you're gonna use a 3/8 lag bolts, pre drill the stud about a 1/16" small so you don't split the stud. The best solution would be to mount a wooden plaque across two studs and place the mount on it. Hopefully you have heavy horns. a 1/4" lag bolt by itself will hold 150 lbs in sheer if you live in quake country. 3/8" is 250-300 lbs.

John

quote:

Originally posted by Big Bore Boar Hunter:The best solution would be to mount a wooden plaque across two studs and place the mount on it.

I'm facing the same dilemma; my kudu will be back soon and I've been wondering how I am going to hang it. The approach above is what I was considering doing...

well, my kudu is not that heavy and the way the mounting hook is located most of the load is verical. that being said toggle bolts should work fine; if, however, you have a concern take a 1x12, rout the edges, stain it a span between two studs, screw this board into both studs with #8 3" drywall screws and you will never have a problem

I have a similar dilemma. I just got my cape buffalo should mount back from the taxidermist. After negotiations with my wife, we have decided on the wall where it will reside. There is no stud in that area (it is between a corner and a window and the mounting area is about 2 inches from the nearest stud). I am planning to cut the drywall out, mount a 2X4 as a cross brace between the two studs, remount the drywall, patch it, and then use a 3/8 inches lag bolt method. Does that sound reasonable?

Find a stud -- a Kudu is far too heavy for just sheetrock.

jcfitzhugh: sure that will work fine; just a bit more effort, however you might use a 2x10 to give you more area iwith which to adjust the height of the mount

I'll go a bit further, why don't you mount 2 studs in there, stacked, so that you have a bit more strength and can have a bit more flexibility in where you put that lag bolt. When you have the wall opened, it is hardly anymore trouble to put an extra stud in there, and you might be glad you did afterward.

We have more than our share of earthquakes so I wanted a system that might stand a chance at holding the mount through a quake.

I ended up using a 3/8" diameter lag bolt hook that I rebent to curve up inside of the mounting plate on the back of the heavy mounts. I make sure they're in a stud. Its a bit of a pain to rebend the hook correctly and to hang the mount but I've seen too many mounts at the local taxidermist getting repaired after a quake.

Maybe it wouldn't help in a big shaker but the mount has to come up and out at the same time to come completely off the hook. Just rattling side to side or slightly up shouldn't knock it off.

Kyler

Find a stud, or if you must use a specific spot... span the two studs with a brace in the wall and re rock over it. They are normally only 16" on center, so the maximum offset would be what 8" from where you are thinking...

Thanks....great info here.

No stud needed, i have an entire trophy room hung off of the following assembly and have never had anyting come down from an eland to bushbuck.
Materials needed: 1/4x4" toggle bolt w/ spring loaded toggle.
1/4" fender washer
1/4" hex nut
1) assemble your bolt as follows, spin hex nut on bolt all the way to the head, next put on fender washer, next put on toggle.
2) poke necessary hole in sheetrock for toggle, insert toggle (on bolt) through hole.
3) pull on the bolt applying pressure to the toggle on the back of the sheetrock, tighten the bolt until the assembly is snug on the wall.
4) use a wrench to tighten the nut which will sandwich the sheetrock between the toggle and fender washer.
5) use a balance of screwdriver and wrench to adjust where the assembly is tight and you have about 1/4" of bolt sticking out past the nut.
6) use a hammer to hit the bottom of the bolt bending it upwards (this pulls the trophy tight to the wall).

Hasn't failed me yet, the only disadvantage is you have to make sure you have the mount where you want as the toggle leaves an usightly hole in your sheetrock if you move the animal.

hell, i just backed my whole trophy room's sheetrock with 1 inch plywood when i built my house. i just hang anything i want anywhere i want. makes spacing, stud finding, etc. a non-issue. nothing, including a nice eland has moved in 4 years.

Just to follow up on my own post on this subject, I got my kudu mount back this past Friday. The only high ceiling in my house is the one above the front door, so that's where he had to go.

The studs were not positioned in a way that were conducive to hanging the kudu from them, but I did find that I had two 12" headers above the door. The back panel on the mount is 24", so we ended up making a brace out of a 1x6 and screwing that into the top header. We raised the top of the brace 4" above the top header, giving us 4 inches from the bottom of the kudu shoulder to the top of the door.

Looks great.

I have almost the same situation. The only place tall enough for my Kudu is the entryway. I have a balcony that overlooks the entryway. I plan to mount it facing the door.

For anyone building a trophy room use 3/4 inch plywood before drywalling.

Slam is correct, if you're building you should sheet the entire room - all walls, in 3/4" plywood. That way, you can hang mounts anywhere you wish with no concerns. I have 13' high walls in my room, with dozens of animals hung and have never had a problemw with any falling off the wall, though I did once have a problem with my then 2 year old daugher tipping a kodial bear over onto her. It is a life size mount standing on the floor.Fortunately, the only one hurt was the bear, who got a broken nose out of the deal. It did teach my daughter to stay away from the animals!

When using lag bolts, I always suggest the "L" shaped type of sufficient size.

the advantage of the Africa-shaped wood plates behind the mount are to be able to hit two or even three studs and a couple rows, up and down.
That's the way my Buffalo (almost done!!! Yee-Haw!!) is going.

Rich