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| Sounds like you've simply run out of adjustment -- or that your reticle adjustment is broken. It is possible that the mechanism has not been damaged by attempting to force it too far. You should be able to judge if your elevation adjustment is working properly by simply resting the rifle on sandbags and looking through the scope while turning the adjustment to see if the reticle moves on the target.
There should be a point at which you meet significant resistance when adjusting to the maximum of the adjustment range. Try going both directions until you hit this point, then crank it back to the approximate middle of the range. If your scope is then pointing significantly higher than where your barrel is pointing then you'll need to shim under the rear mount to place your zero nearer the center of the adjustment range. |
| | | Posts: 13274 | Location: Henly, TX, USA | Registered: 04 April 2001 | 
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| Not sure what your mount set up is, but if you're set up to use Burris Signature rings with the poly inserts, you can buy the inserts with MOA offset that will easily solve the out of adjustment problems. |
| | | Posts: 2276 | Location: West Texas | Registered: 07 December 2011 |
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| quote: Originally posted by Stonecreek:
Sounds like you've simply run out of adjustment -- or that your reticle adjustment is broken. It is possible that the mechanism has not been damaged by attempting to force it too far. You should be able to judge if your elevation adjustment is working properly by simply resting the rifle on sandbags and looking through the scope while turning the adjustment to see if the reticle moves on the target.
There should be a point at which you meet significant resistance when adjusting to the maximum of the adjustment range. Try going both directions until you hit this point, then crank it back to the approximate middle of the range. If your scope is then pointing significantly higher than where your barrel is pointing then you'll need to shim under the rear mount to place your zero nearer the center of the adjustment range.
This works good only if you do it before the rings are tightened. |
| | | Posts: 4372 | Location: NE Wisconsin | Registered: 31 March 2007 |
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| I remember having run in the same problem, decades ago. A friend revealed me a simple trick : shimming the rear base with a mating piece cut out of a coke can. 
André
DRSS
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3 shots do not make a group, they show a point of aim or impact.
5 shots are a group.
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| quote: Originally posted by Stonecreek:
Sounds like you've simply run out of adjustment -- or that your reticle adjustment is broken. It is possible that the mechanism has not been damaged by attempting to force it too far. You should be able to judge if your elevation adjustment is working properly by simply resting the rifle on sandbags and looking through the scope while turning the adjustment to see if the reticle moves on the target.
There should be a point at which you meet significant resistance when adjusting to the maximum of the adjustment range. Try going both directions until you hit this point, then crank it back to the approximate middle of the range. If your scope is then pointing significantly higher than where your barrel is pointing then you'll need to shim under the rear mount to place your zero nearer the center of the adjustment range.
If you have a boresight tool you can use this to do the check Stonecreek advises. BTW, just because the elevation knob turns doesn't mean the erector tube is moving - many scopes run out of room before the knobs stop turning. First step is to run this test. |
| | | Posts: 7583 | Location: Arizona and off grid in CO | Registered: 28 July 2004 |
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