The Accurate Reloading Forums THE ACCURATE RELOADING.COM FORUMS Guns, Politics, Gunsmithing & Reloading Optics Leupold Boone & CrockettGo | New | Find | Notify | Tools | Reply | |
| Leupold Boone & Crockett | Login/Join |
| One of Us |
Has anyone used this reticle? How well does it work for a 270-300 mag? Was the 100 yd POI acceptable, say no more than 2.5" high, when the hash marks hits at 300, 400, 500 as intended? I'm using a 7 mag, BC of .392 at 3000fps. | ||
|
| one of us |
I have two of them in 10X and 14X variables. There are two setting on the power ring: one is for higher velocity cartridges and the other for "normal" velocities. The best way to use it is to figure out which setting matches your trajectory, then zero the 400 yard crosshair at 400 yards. Check at 300 and 200, but you will be pretty much dead on. I used to whack a big Yukon moose; ranged him at 285 yards, plopped down on my butt, slid my arm in the sling, held a bit into the wind, and let her fly. I have both of mine on a .338 Win Mag. Works great. | |||
|
| One of Us |
Thanks, AZ. Your method of zeroing at 400 makes good sense. Assuming your 100 yd POI is OK, i.e. about 2" high, that should work nicely. Do you recall where your POI is at 100? | |||
|
| one of us |
The opportunity to zero at 400 yards is not available to most hunters. But if you do have 200 yards available to you then simply use the main crosshair and zero at that distance. You'll be very close with most rifles using spitzer bullets and generating velocities between 2800 and 3200 fps. I like the B&C reticle a bit better than the LR Duplex offered in the VX-1 & VX-2, but only because it uses cross LINES for hold reference rather than round dots. The round dots subtend just a bit much of the target, but this is not really a problem if you are shooting at game rather than varmints or targets. Insofar as the windage references on the B&C reticle, well, they're there, and you can use them as you see fit. But realistically, wind is so variable in speed and direction that any attempt to quantify it with a fixed hold off reference seems somewhat foolish. I'd rather have a cleaner sight picture and estimate the windage hold off based on the size of the game and the apparent stiffness of the wind. | |||
|
| One of Us |
More good info, Stone. Thanks. I'll be in rural MT for two weeks in June, so can zero at the 400 and 500 hash marks then, check against the Horizontal line at 100 and 200. You are so unfortunately correct, that ranges near big cities having 400 or 500 yd lines are damned hard to come by. Your implication that typical hunting cartridges w/spitzers at 2800-3200 produce similar paths is right on. Relatively small differences in V and BC have little effect. Elevation and temperature count for more. The biggest factor is the butt stock nut. | |||
|
| one of us |
Just my opinion of course, but anyone who doens't have access to 400 yards has no business shooting game that far. I would say it is pretty easy to shoot at 300 if you are limited to 200 for the simple reason most loads drop about 8 inches at 300, and an in or two at 300 isn't going to matter. But the unknowns at twice that distance really do make a difference. The wind issue is a real one; the problem with a B&C or any other reticle pattern is that holding over at a distance not marked (450 for example) combined with any amount of wind means you have no aiming point. You can somewhat adjust by noting where the crosshairs are aiming after holding high and off, but there are better methods... | |||
|
| one of us |
At 300 yards, elevation and temperature don't matter. When I go from Phoenix to my place in CO at 8000 feet I need to come down 1 MOA at 700 yards, which is a lot, but not a huge amount. Temperature matters a lot more when you shoot a bullet with a low BC; the lower the BC, the more it is impacted by temperature differences. But in general, you have to be shooting a long ways off in temp conditions markedly different from what you zeroed in to see a big affect. IMO the best thing shooters can do to minimize the effects of temp is not to shoot ball or spherical powders; in general they have a huge temp sensitivity (but I do think Hodgdon has at least one spherical powder that is not temp sensitive). | |||
|
| One of Us |
I use a the B&C a lot; it is my favorite subtention reticle and a pile of them. A 7mm flat-base at 3000 fps and sighted for 200 yards with the power ring set on the Large triangle is a very good match. That should place your 100 yard POI at 1.5" high. So far so good; some shooting, confirming with some possible tweaking at 400, 450 or 500 yards (with the post) will put you in the game. If you need to correct the 500 yard POI so be it, a minute at 500 matters but transferring the error back to 200 makes it of little consequence. If its a matter of a little too much drop it can also be fixed by turning the power down until the drop is correct and marking it. The wind drift lines are even a good match for a 10 mph crosswind. That's the good news. Practically as easy as falling down a well. All you have to do is shoot up a gallon or so of powder playing and learning a bit about wind. On the other hand, if one was to assume the 200 zero by extrapolating from 100 yard POI, not confirm the velocity you're getting and the actual drops and even the blind belief that the load will group at that distance it would be well advised to forget all about it. Hanging your dreams on a hope based on a belief based on an assumption is liable to bite you on the butt. That's not even considering that the only way to learn to shoot in the wind at distance is to shoot in the wind at distance. That's a deal-breaker all by itself. If you don't shoot in the wind you advance to a guess based on a hope based on a belief based on an assumption. So the answer is somewhere between "its great and easy"; and "forget all about it, it s risky and ill-advised." Which one is up to you. | |||
|
| one of us |
Could not have said it better myself. It is why I live in AZ: if you can't shoot at long range in the wind, you can't shoot at long range in the wind. | |||
|
| one of us |
I agree that everyone should check their POI at 100, 200, 300, 400 and even at further ranges if they intend to shoot beyond 400, which I do not as a rule.. Maybe you don't have access to a 400 yard range but surely you can drive to a place that does or at least test your gun when you get to your hunt..It may be a little trouble but it may make a difference in your success on an expensive hunt, and if you do not and you only have POI knowledge to 200 yards then you might be wise to work on your stalking skills... Ray Atkinson Atkinson Hunting Adventures 10 Ward Lane, Filer, Idaho, 83328 208-731-4120 rayatkinsonhunting@gmail.com | |||
|
One of Us |
I have one - works great - I use IStrelok app to get hash ranges at all power setting on the scope - not just the triangles. "Pick out two!" - Moe Howard  | |||
|
| Powered by Social Strata |
 | Please Wait. Your request is being processed... |
|
Visit our on-line store for AR Memorabilia