Apparently, while mounting my scope the other day I got distracted, I think the the phone rang or a dog wanted outside or something.

So I go to sight it in and there were a couple "odd" results at first, but after a couple adjustments it shot about a 1.25" group which is disappointing for this gun. But, its on target, shoots where I want, lets go hunt.

Then I discovered the loose back mount. I didn't tighten the back ring at all. It was completely loose and you could wiggle it up and down. I laughed about it thinking the front was completely tight. Nope, just barely snug.

So, all you have to do is barely snug down the front and you are good to go.

Just thought I would share this with all you guys who think the back ring is all that important. Apparently, it's just there because the scope just needs a place to rest.

Earlier that day I pulled mounts off a gun I bought used from a guy here on AR. This is a solid 1" gun. The mounts were clearly attached with loctite. I could see it on the threads and on the end of the screws, but I swear, you probably could have loosened every single one of the screws that were holding the mounts to the action, with a stick in the field.

And I swear I am not exaggerating. I have shot this gun for a few years and killed a fair number of pigs with it and was extremely pleased with the accuracy.

For my next trick, I am going to try duct taping a scope on and see what kind of group I can get.

Wendell
After you graduate from the duct tape it will be time to try out the paper towel roll with horse hair crosshairs.

And if you are a true marksman you can move up to the hand molded duct tape front sight.

Badger mounts advises : screws finger tight + 90° (= 1/2 a turn). Never more. If Locktite desired, opt for the blue one, not the red variety.

For a long time I used "barely snug" on all my scope mounts. For the hell of it I got a Weaver torque wrench, and some of the torques in the manual are:

Scope ring cap screws - 20 in-lb for steel rings, 15 in-lb for alum rings

Windage screws on bases - 30 in-lb for steel or alum rings

Which is nice to know...but for many years, "just snug" seemed to work as long as I checked the screws now and then.

The best gunsmith I've known in regard to rifles appeared to only give a gentle tightening with a normal screwdriver - and that was with grease over a steel scope in Redfield mounts. The rifle was a 338 WM and I never noticed the scope move in more than 20 years before I removed it.

Could I suggest you do likewise and then measure the distance from bell to mount? If it has changed after shooting for some time, tweak it a bit more.

I used to tighten scopes down like a Gorilla, but have slacked off over the years and now use oil on the screws, no loctite, and a FAT wrench. Now when I change out scopes I don't have stripped out or busted screws.

Forget the Duct Tape, you should try just a couple of zip ties

quote:

Originally posted by Dom:
I used to tighten scopes down like a Gorilla, but have slacked off over the years and now use oil on the screws, no loctite, and a FAT wrench. Now when I change out scopes I don't have stripped out or busted screws.

Forget the Duct Tape, you should try just a couple of zip ties

I started skipping the Loctite as well but in the last few months the Picatinny rails on my .338 Edge and Lapua have both come loose - and groups suffered big time. Remounting my NXS right now on my Stiller Edge.

I have and use two torque drivers made for the task. The one for the ring screws/bolts is 15 in/lbs. The other is for tightening the rings on the base. I'm not sure what that one is, maybe 30 in/lbs. They are turned until they reach the proper torque after which they just ratchet around without tightening any more. They make it a no-brainer.

I have a Weaver torque wrench that is set for 25 inch/pounds which I now always for the rings.

I have in the past for sure been guilty of making the base screws 'farmer tight' (meaning tightened until just before (hopefully) the point of failure). It's an art.

I believe the general recommendation by most optics manufacturers is 20-25 inch/pounds for base screws and 20 inch/pounds for ring screws. Certainly, using one of the many available torque drivers for this purpose is good not only for proper specs, but consistency across all the screws. I think you can get away with a LITTLE over-torque so long as it's the same across everything.