Or, is there some out-of-production basic Mauser I should look for?

I know that there's a big prejudice here in favor of the Mauser and Mauser-style (e.g. Winchester Model 70) actions, but I don't share that view. I think the Remington 700 is a great rifle.

Also, the 700 classics have a great stock design, and the .375 has open sights, for those who think they need them.

[This message has been edited by LE270 (edited 06-08-2001).]

Check around to see what a gunsmith might charge to build one for you.

Next, I'll have to learn how to reload!

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~Ann

Every day spent outdoors is the best day of my life.

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Ray Atkinson

ray@atkinsonhunting.com
atkinsonhunting.com

If you want a nice rifle and the "right rifle" in 375, then as Ray has suggested the Pre 64 is it. The only problem with a Pre 64 in 375 is that you will then have to get its little brother, the 300 H&H.

If accuracy at the upper end is a big thing for you, I would get the M70 Stainless as the starting point.

You will have enough left over for a Jewell trigger and a match grade barrel.

By the way, a Jewell will let you go all the way from a 2 ounce pull up into the pounds.

Mike

[This message has been edited by Mike375 (edited 06-07-2001).]

My '06 is such a rifle and is manageable now that I've learned where on my jaw the stock should land--but I'm concerned that with a .375 the learning curve would be a bit more painful.

Or would you restock the pre-'64 anyway? Finn Aagaard once wrote that he'd never seen a regularly used pre-'64 .375 that didn't split its stock eventually.

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RC

[This message has been edited by John Ricks (edited 06-07-2001).]

However, I know nothing about the different types of set triggers and was wondering about that when I looked at CZ's website. How exactly are the CZ triggers operated, (set vs. single stage) and can they be readily disabled or replaced by those of us who are accustomed to normal American triggers? (E.g., can they be replaced with a Timney?)

To partially answer your question about the CZ550 Magnum set trigger: I just got a 550 in .416 Rigby, haven't fired it yet (got cases yesterday, no dies yet), but I have played with it a little. The same trigger that is used in what we Americans would call the normal way can also be "set" by pushing it forward. It is then supposed to be in a much less safe condition, with, presumably, a lighter pull. I couldn't tell the difference, partly because it had a lot of takeup, and partly because I didn't mess with it much because I didn't figure I was going to get into the habit of using it, anyway. I have not yet measured the pull either way, but the conventional pull seems fine to me for a hunting gun. According to the instruction book, the parts for the set-trigger feature can be removed from the trigger assembly entirely. If you're interested in more info, let me know & I'll check it out as best I can. I'm sure I'll get around to measurements sooner or later for my own curiosity, anyway.

Hope this helps.

Thanks for the info on the safety, it sounds like I might want to get that modified if possible as it isn't the same as any of my other rifles. That, or get a CZ rifle in a "light" caliber to go with it. Where did you get a .375 with a straight stock? --the website seems to show it only with the humpback.

Recono--

Thanks for the trigger info. Weight aside, is the trigger crisp? My .270 VZ-24 has a 3.25 pound Timney that I love, and my Model 70 is 5 pounds but very crisp so I deal with it.

John

I would call the 550 Mag trigger a lot of things, including quite satisfactory, but I don't think I would call it crisp without some qualification. Most people wouldn't call it crisp at all. Before I tell you what the trigger is like, let me warn you that this is out of the box. I have not had the action out of the rifle, and I haven't even blown compressed air into the trigger assembly (and probably won't for a while - I'm plenty happy with the trigger, but maybe that's because I'm odd). This trigger is adjustable, and comes with an explanation of which screw adjusts what. I am quite sure that its performance could be significantly changed just by disassembling it and reassembling lubed with RIG Stainless Steel lube, which is a kind of magic trigger-pull reducer. However, like most trigger-pull reducers, even this one should be used only by someone who knows what he's doing. On 1911's, that's me. On rifles, it isn't, even though I'm sure there are a lot of basic similarities. I know enough about triggers to know that I don't know enough about triggers.

On to the out-of-the-box performance. In normal mode, the trigger has a lot of takeup. While taking up, one can feel the travel of one surface over another. One can take up & then let up, and the trigger will return some. Some might call the creep "gritty," but that's a little stronger than I would put it. Let's just say that the takeup is a long and interesting journey. However, the letoff is at about four pounds or so (measured), comes as a surprise, and doesn't seem to me to be followed by much overtravel. I consider it an excellent trigger for a hunting rifle, but that's because I LIKE takeup.

The set trigger has a little takeup, also, but it is uneventful, and ends with a one- to one-and-a-half-pound letoff. The set trigger can be set even while on safe, and can be unset while on safe. If I never lend the gun, I will probably leave the set trigger feature on. Seems to work well, and no-one is making me use it.

Hope this tells you what you need to know. I think the trigger's fine right now. If you don't like creep, I strongly believe, but don't know absolutely for sure, that a gunsmith could easily lube and adjust the trigger to your satisfaction. You could probably do it yourself, but I wouldn't advise it unless you already know more about that stuff than I do, which isn't saying much.

Good luck!

quote:

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Originally posted by Recono:
This trigger is adjustable, and comes with an explanation of which screw adjusts what.

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A far cry from most anything made in America!

Any idea whether it's replaceable with a Timney, Dayton Traister, etc.?

On this claw extractor vs push feed thing, I have spent years blindly blubbering how much I want a "controlled feed rifle". Like a automaton I have marched thru life, stary look in eye", trying to prove Im good enough to be in the "Mauser action" crowd.

A few days ago I suffered a very shocking epiphany, like a bolt of lightening actually. I suddenly realized that I have never, not once, short stroked a rifle or had a problem ejecting with a push feed, other then case related "pressure" problems that could happen with ANY! kind of bolt.

Beside's I was trained in hunting, with a Bow, by a father who thought a hunter should never NEED! more then one shot. In other words "make that first shot count or dont shoot at all".

Modern rifles are very dependable. Have we moved past this extractor arguement?.........10

The only bolt action which I have ever had an extractor problem with is the Remington 700. It's definately a weak link in an otherwise excellent action. But I agree that extraction problems are, in reality, few and far between, even with the 700. As far as feeding, I don't think there's any real difference, given the proper magazine and feed rail alignment, between a push feed and a CRF. But remember, some CRF's won't accept a single round fed straight into the chamber -- a HUGE handicap when trying to get off a quick shot after the magazine is exhausted.

I'm a great fan of Sakos, which no one has mentioned in this topic. My .375 is the TRG-S. It is wonderfully accurate, but is so light that it really gets your attention in the recoil department. I think the conventional M75 is some heavier, so you might consider it.

I've never been that big of a M70 fan, mostly because I'm one of a handful who don't like the safety arrangement, but the current production .375 in that gun looks like a good solid shooter.

Recono replies: No idea. Maybe someone else knows.

1. Buy a used pre-64 M70 .375 H&H and have some left over

2. Buy a new win M70 classic in .375 H&H for $849, buy anther one in .458 win mag, and some ammo.

3. Buy a lower end used custom rifle in .375 H&H.

quote:

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Originally posted by 500grains:
The topic seems well covered, but with a budget of $2K, you could:

1. Buy a used pre-64 M70 .375 H&H and have some left over

2. Buy a new win M70 classic in .375 H&H for $849, buy anther one in .458 win mag, and some ammo.

3. Buy a lower end used custom rifle in .375 H&H.

---

There are numerous additional possibilities, including but not limited to:

4. Buy a Remington 700 Limited Classic, either new or used.

5. Buy a .375 from Remington's custom shop.

6. Go to www.gunsamerica.com and when you get that website, choose the Custom Search option and then type 375 into the search line. Your search will turn up many 375 rifles, new and used. Most of them, except for the double rifles and expensive exotics, will be under $2000. In fact, most of them will be under $1000.

7. Have a .375 custom made for you, using off-the-shelf parts (i.e. action, barrel, and stock).

[This message has been edited by LE270 (edited 06-08-2001).]

It was bought from a friend who'd only put a box through it. It came with q/d rings and a set of dies for $700.

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It is not enough to fight for natural land and the west; it is even more important to enjoy it. While you can. While it's still there. So get out there and hunt and fish and mess around with your friends...Enjoy yourselves, keep your brain in your head and your head firmly attached to the body, the body active and alive, and I promise you this much: I promise you this one sweet victory over our enemies, over those deskbound men with their hearts in a safe-deposit box and their eyes hypnotized by desk calculators. I promise you this: you will outlive the bastards.

- Edward Abbey

The two-position side swing safety on the bolt shroud is O.K., but of course a 3-position safety would be nicer.

I had Kevin Jenkins rechamber a .375 H&H CZ 550 to .378 Weatherby, adjust the trigger, and pillar bed it. Out of the factory barrel it shot sub 2/3 MOA with 300 grain Sierra Game King bullets (with about 111 grains of IMR 7828 if memory serves) at 2860 fps in the first try with the gun at 100 yards. Kevin also put a Kick-Eeze pad on it, and I found that European style stock to my liking. The express sights from the factory were right on for me, and the Leupold 3X-9X seemed right at home with that stock too. Just go for the lowest rings possible. I used some Warne non-QD mediums that were originally made for the BRNO ZKK 602. They require a hex head wrench to remove, but I bet they would return to zero better than any QD out there.

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Good huntin' and shootin',
RAB

[This message has been edited by R. A. Berry (edited 06-09-2001).]

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Good huntin' and shootin',
RAB

I didn't think there was anything backward about the safety. I did think the forend was rather chubby and I don't care for the undercut forend tip. The barrel channel inletting gave it a rather "generous" room to freely float.

The action was a bit rough compared to the average US gun. However, I imagine it will wear in somewhat over time.

The nicest surprise was the trigger. Even with the little bit of grit and creep it has, it is still more usable by my standards than the Ruger or even the Winchester. If the set feature is readily removable and the rest of the unit has some room for user adjustments I think it could end up quite satisfactory.

The nastiest surprise was the spray of excess oil out of the rear of the bolt when I dry-snapped it. Fortunately, I was wearing glasses.

I think one of these would be quite a nice everyday rifle. I'm torn between getting one in .375 right off the bat, or getting one in 7x57. Or, I could get one in .270 and then have my .270 M98 Mauser which is currently a bit unsatisfactory, rebarreled in either 7x57.

If I get the .375 I would probably want to replace the "European" stock with a plain, straight-combed model. Any suggestions on a source for reasonably-priced, semi-inletted stocks these days?

Before I can give you a recommendation I need you to explain what you will use the rifle for.

- Are you just going to play around with it, developing some loads, and shooting it at the range, etc.?
- Are you going to hunt non-dangerous game with it?
- Are you going to hunt dangerous game with it?

Please let us know.

Good Hunting !

I had a chance to look at the Richards listings, and I see that they still make a stock for the BRNO's, although they don't list one for the CZ 550. Neither does Boyds.

A secret: the BRNO ZKK 602 stock fits the CZ 550 if one does some fitting, requiring opening up, of the trigger well to house that bulkier new and improved CZ 550 trigger mechanism.

American Hunting Rifles was offering wood and synthetic stocks for the CZ 550.

McMillan made my BRNO ZKK 602 stock in the classic express mode with little drop at heel. This can also be used on the CZ 550, and McMillan is probably fitting them specifically for the CZ 550's now. McMillan is the best for a big bore. They can make them solid fiber glass (heavy) or with some filling to make them lighter, your specification.

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Good huntin' and shootin',
RAB

[This message has been edited by R. A. Berry (edited 06-10-2001).]

I have the set on my ZKK, .500 A-Sq and my wife's 7x57.

I have found it excellent for target practice from the standing position. I have given serious thought to hunting situations and can only say if I weren't in a hurry and I could only shoot from the standing position I would not hesitate to use it.

For the best .375? If it feeds and goes bang every time you pull the trigger...the best is whatever you want.

AD

Do you have web addresses or other contact info for the stock suppliers you mentioned?

Thanks,

John

Here are some addresses:

McMillan: www.shootingsports.com/mcmillan/home.htm

Richards Micro-fit:
www.rifle-stocks.com/catalog.htm

American Hunting Rifles:
www.hunting-rifles.com

Boyds
www.boydboys.com

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Good huntin' and shootin',
RAB

[This message has been edited by R. A. Berry (edited 06-11-2001).]

I believe I've decided to go for the CZ and replace the stock (which would give me the opportunity to plane off a cheekpiece, which I simply don't care for)--and may even get another one in .270 or 7x57 to match!