Very interesting, informative and exciting read. Thanks for the post. I am eagerly waiting the next installment.

Bill

Excellent reporting Frederik! I hope you make a DVD available for sale?? Keep up the good work, David

Report No. 6
First of all let me give you a birds eye view of where we were and the distances.



This is the overall map that shows Ruacana all the way to Foz de Cunene. Even if it shows 260km as the crow flies from the border to Foz the total road length was 400km.



The setup at Foz de Cunene, everything quite explanatory, see the old pump house that use to pump water all the way up to Bias dos Tigres and the fishing factory. All the buildings are still there and there’s, a couple of policemen stationed on the island itself against people who would plunder the place. The big brass clock from the Capela/Church was stolen a while ago. You must also remember that the island was connected to the main land until the sea decided to change it’s way and the island was cut off from the mainland and that was the reason for the closure of the fish factory as well as the pump house and so the border post and the pontoons. Quite a chain reaction !






From Foz to Bias dos Tigres would be a drive along the shoreline for around 40 km if you are after shark and rays this is the place for you. Apparently Spyker said that it would not too difficult to hook a 200kg + ray but to get it out would be another story on it’s own so you would have to bring some serious gear for those.

Some pics of rays that he caught there before.



So of we go further up north to Bias dos Tigres. On the way we see springbuck in the surf and some more, tame jackal. The further north we go the tamer they look and I suppose the less human interaction they have. Even though it’s only 40 km away it still takes us a while to finally arrive. We were hoping that the water colour would be different but here as well the water is clear and clean for Cob child. So we move to another spot where Spyker said we can target some sharks untill we wait for the tide to turn.



Sunrise over the desert in the east always a beautiful site.

Angola82








We decide on a spot and get the lines in Jaco moves up a bit onto a bit more rocky area and playing with light tackle tries to see what he can find. Captain gets a nice spotted grunter on that spot and Jaco enjoying himself and in a short time lands over 8 fish in succession. While Jaco is busy on the other spot the reels start to scream on the shark rods and Ace lands the first Bronzie (Bronze whaler shark) for the day.



Next up is, Marco and Marina posing for a nice double with sharks on the go. The lines don’t even have time to settle for more than 10 minutes before they run.





In between some small hound sharks are also coming out but no one hooked into a ray thus far. Some was hoping to, but now that the sharks were on a roll I got a chance to bag my first ever shark and with a weight of 40kg my biggest fish ever as well. These sharks know how to fight and it was very exiting to see the fin sticking out the water in the shallows. 20 Minutes of good fighting and I landed him after all I told my son I was going away to catch sharks so I had at least to catch one for him. He calls them ‘Sharkies†and was very chuffed with me when I showed him the photo.





It is a custom that when you catch your first bronzie that you have to release it with a kiss and so I did.



It was a day filled with first for many of us and for other it has been a while since they have caught bronzies. Zahir with a bronzie, the first in 3 years.


Jaco with another bronzie also around 40kg.


Captain was after big Cob but ended up catching is first ever spotted gulley shark and a nice big one too of around 25kg. That is one specie I would definitely like to catch next time.

The fishing at Tigres is awesome and I would have loved to spend more time there we landed 6 bronzies in a short time. But as the tides changed we moved back a bit south to see if we could get some decent Cob. But the sharks kept us busy and since we where targeting Cob we didn’t use any steel traces and so we lost a couple sharks right in front of us in the surf. This was to become known to us as the day of the sharks. But it always works like this if you are not looking out for sharks you will find them and then when you are looking to target sharks specifically they just do a vanishing act on you.

With driving on loose sand most of the time the vehicles was burning up fuel like no mans business and 6 km before Foz the mazda ran out of diesel and we were towed in by the patrol over the rough terrain which took us sometime.

In the end of the day all of us had a great day and it definitely was one of the highlights of the trip.



Tired hungry and happy we ate and went to bed as soon as we could.

Part 7 is the drive north up to Flamingo lodge trough Tombua.

Those are some big rays. Thanks for the updated report and photos.

Frederik,

Thanks for the great report and marvellous pictures!
Allow me to make a small correction to a tiny detail on your photos and report:: the place you call “Bias dos Tigres†is in fact “Baía dos Tigres†(“Baía†is the portuguese word for Bay: Baía dos Tigres = Tigers Bay)

B.Martins

b.martins,

Thank you for the correction. I have been getting mixed spelling from maps as well so I'm not always sure what the correct spelling is. So if I mispel something again please do not hesitate to tell me. Thank you.

Great report and a super adventure in a country that is finally free of it's brutal past. Thanks for sharing and lets hope others can enjoy Angola's natural wonders in the future.

Frederik

Did you come across any (information rumours or facts) on the (Giant or Royal Sable) which we believe still exists in some regional area of the country.

Cheers, Peter

Frederik,

Awesome adventure, thanks for sharing all the fun.

Frederik- What a neat trip. Keep it going!! Did you see any evidence of military mines?

John

The fishing looks like a lot of fun, but the trip itself is the adventure I would give anything to do.

Keep them comming

I posted a seperate post on the Giant sable and hunting for more info.

As for war remains most of the tanks and debris as been moved out of eyesight and on the road between Namibe and Tombua there is remains of a whole tank regiment next to the road nothing physical but trenches that was dug for the tanks. Bullet holes and graffiti is quite common with Savimbi's name.

Then south of Lunbango the area is know for mines and you will see people along the way without legs and arms. The worst sight I have seen is a young boy of around 10-11 without both his arms.

quote:

of us

Hi Guys!
I know this is not a fishing site, but for the shere enjoiment of a good safari and cameradi...
If you are interested: I'm taking a group to Angola in July of 2008. Check out the website: www.kisusuli-safaris.co.za You are welcome to join us!

Part 7 on the way to Flamingo trough Tombua.



I asked the policemen at Foz if they would mind if I take a photo of them uder the flag in uniform before we leave. They didn't like that very much. So John as he calls himself in english and Juan in portuguese got up and dressed into something unique, Angolan celebration clothes and that suited me just fine.




Marina gave him a portuguese bible which he appreciatted very much. And after the first bunch of photos they all got more relaxed and joined in.






Don or Rambo as we nicknamed him just wanted to show off with my sunglasses. He says that he only exercises when he is at home but I don't know if I should believe him that since he is home only 3 months of the year.

With some french little bit of portuguese and sign language we overcame the language barrier. Don was into communications and Juan a mechanic very helpfull to know for any vehicle problems.

So yes we are finally packed and ready to go we have a small time frame as we need to drive trough at Baía dos Tigres to get to Tombua and as you will see from the photos it is quite a adventure on its own. But first up Zahir and Captain took a different route only 20 feet or so left of the first vehicle and this is what happened.



These 2 pictures will explain the time frame we had driving trough. This part of the trip is 35km long and if youre stuck then youre stuck there is no place to go. The dune on your right hand side and the strong sea on your left.






A view to the vehicle behind us.


We made it trough without any hiccups and we stop for a bit of a drink and snack before we head up further


This was a Namimbian fishing vessel and even if it looks like it has been there for a very long time, Spyker said the wreck is about 2 years old only. Just shows you what the sea can do.




This wreck is more famous and was originally from Portugal the Vanesa. She has been stranded for the last 6 years. Just look at where she has beached the sea can sometimes come in far if it wants too.

Finally we hit Tombua our first sight of proper civilazation. We will stop for fuel and Diesel and head up further north to Flamingo Lodge about 70km away.




The newest building in town the Library.




The fuel pumps there was petrol but no diesel at all. Luckily we had enough diesel to make it to Flamingo and from there we could got to Namibe which is a bigger town for diesel.


Petrol is R4.00 per liter 100 Kwanzas is R1.00 and diesel was R2.90 per liter if there was any.

While we were filling up a policmen appeared and requested to take our passports to the police station. Now smartass me packed his passport away deep with the luggage. But luckily the policeman struggled to count 10 of us as I kept moving from vehicle to vehicle. I really didn't feel like unpacking neither did anybody else. Johan accompanied him to the police station to make sure they dont run off with the passports.

They were just wasting our time the passports never got stamped or checked properly and they took the car registration numbers. Johan joined up again and we were off to Flamingo.

I was expecting the scenery to turn a bit more green but looks like we were still deep in the deserts grip.






These looked like old bustops on route every 5-10km away from each other totally abandoned.


Finally we have arrived or so we thought again the 23km to the lodge takes 40-45 minutes.

But thats for the next update.

Today, is a bit full and hectic for me. Going to help my Brother move but as soon as I get a chance I will post part 8.

quote:

Originally posted by jetdrvr:

quote:

Originally posted by Blair338/378:
Can't wait to hear about it.............

A friend of mine hunted it when it was full of Cubans

So did a few of mine...

and a few East Germans, also...

I was there several times during the war. Was in Luanda when the Berlin wall fell. All I saw was misery. I'm glad the place is beginning to get sorted out.

Ok, so we finally arrive at Flamingo it's dark again. Neil who manages the lodge invites us in and tells us to grab a beer. You don’t have to ask me twice.

Below is some pictures of the lodge that I took during the day.











As you can see we are still in the desert although on the way to the lodge we did get some more plant growth along te way and a couple of trees.


This lizard gave me some good time to get a couple of good mugshots of him.


And from this board it seems that Flamingo is part of some sort of reserve unless the board is not in use anymore.


We were still trying to target big cob with spoons and Spyker hooked into this nice 6 1/2kg beauty. Our hopes were raised to catch a couple more bigger Cob but it looked like this one was lost or din't have any friends.


At least we got some other species like this small ray from Jaco.


Another small ray from Marina, we called them bull rays but on closer inspection in the book they were not bul rays and I forgot the real name.


Zahir with a nice Blue ray.


Spyker had a bit of a fight trying to get this sand shark out, it would sit just behind the first bank and you needed to wait for a big enough wave to pick him up. He was around 30kg.

Back at flamingo Spyker and Marina invited us for a small drive some said no and myself, Jaco and Marco went along.









I was so happy that I did go as I would never have thought that this kind of beauty would be sitting just behind the lodge. Canyons made from Sandstone and all different layers and colours. The pictures don't do them justice. I would easily call it the 8th wonder of the world and wish I could spend more time there. Looking closely at the layers you would be able to pick out fossils with some time on your hands.


At the lodge itself we had some fun catching smaller fish of all different species like this small Rock Cob.


A nice view from a dune.

Next up will be the last report, when we head back to Namibia with pictures of the road along the way.

Great adventure. Thanks for sharing with the rest of us.

You should call that a long view from a tall dune.

Wow, Lewis and Clark would be proud of you.

Ok so finally we come to the end of our trip, it's Monday the 19th Novemeber 07 and we are heading back to Namibia.


Here is a map of the route we will roughly follow.


Before we left I had to take a picture of myself and you can actually see how big these Vilvitias is.

On our way we will travel trough Namibe and Lubango as soon as we we hit the higher inland the clouds was building up for quite a shower and unfortunately I don't have any photos of Lubango with all the rain. Below is some info on Namibe and Lubango.

Namibe

Namibe (pre-1985: Moçâmedes) is the capital city of Namibe Province in Angola. Namibe is located in southwestern Angola and was founded in 1840. It is one of Angola's 3 major ports, including Luanda and Lobito as well. The city's current population is 150,000. Namibe has a cool dry climate and desert vegetation.
Namibe is served by the Namibe Airport located about 7 km to the south of the city. The old Yuri Gagarin airport, only about 1.7 km from the city's center, is inactive.


The entrance to Namibe and a lot of construction work is being done which is great but there are no laws or regulations on how to build so you can go mad and build like you want.




Namibe looks like a nice coastal town.





Just before we headed in the pass we stopped at this old recovery tank.

We were about 100km away heading east from Namibe when everything started to turn green and we entered the Leba mountain pass. The pass was designed by an Italian woman and was named after her. She was murdered and I don't know if the war had anything to do with it. The South African forces succesfully blew up the bridges on the pass in the war.

BTW before we started on the pass our elevation was 630m and right on top where we looked down the pass it was 1700m quite a climb !









Rain started to pour and as we entered Lubango which is situated in a valley I was surprized how big Lubango is. Hopefully next year we can stop there and take some nice footage and photos. Some info on Lubango.

Lubango, city in southwestern Angola, capital of Huíla province, located 150 km (94 mi) east-northeast of the port of Namibe, and 280 km (175 mi) south of Lobito. Situated on the Huíla Plateau, the city has a relatively cool, moist climate and savanna vegetation. Lubango's economy is based on agriculture, especially meat products, grains, sisal, tobacco, fruits, and vegetables produced in the surrounding fertile region. Food processing, leather tanning, and consumer goods industries dominate the industrial sector. Lubango is connected by rail to the port of Namibe and to the regional centers of Menongue, Chiange, and Cassinga. It has a major airport and is headquarters to a fighter-bomber regiment of the Angolan air force. A campus of Agostinho Neto University, with schools of economics, law, and education, is located in the city. Lubango, known to Portuguese colonists as Sá da Bandeira, was established in 1885 by immigrants from Madeira. In the following decades, it became a major center of Portuguese settlement, and cultural and economic development. The infrastructure and economy of the city and its surroundings were greatly damaged following Angola's independence in 1975 by the departure of most Portuguese settlers, by the effects of two decades of civil war, and by bombing raids by South African planes. Agricultural and industrial production have been reduced to a small fraction of pre-1975 levels. The population has increased due to the arrival of refugees from the civil war. Population (1983 estimate) 105,000.


Next up more South was the towm of Chibia. We filled up with fuel and I took some picture of the main street as you can see there was still a lot of dark clouds around and it was late afternoon as well.










Our last sunset in Angola on the road.

The next morning after spending the night in the vehicles as were were too tired and lazy to put up camp and it could start raining anytime we stopped at this waterpump.




Have a look at the drinking trough made from an old tree trunk very nice.


The date this borehole was drilled 1972.


Public transport and we stop to ask directions.


As you can see we drove trough rain and mud. Everywhere we stopped in Namibia people were asking where we came from and where it rained. I wonder what gave them that idea ?


Our last stop at a small town where we bargained for some petrol. Giving a 20 liter jerry can the guy returned and said that we need to pay for 25 liters of petrol since he filled it up to the brim. No matter how many times we showed the sign on the can that says 20 liter he said that he filled it up with 25 liters. So we just paid and let him be.


This is it the official last photo of Angola from my side. Ahead is the Angolan border post where I had to put away the camera again.

Afterthought,

Angola is must see for any adventurer and unless you fly in to the big towns a no-no to bring your family. The country has been destroyed by a very long war but the people don't seem to hold a grudge and seem very friendly and proud.

Do not intend to go without a proper guide especially when going on old dirt tracks. Apparently official guides will be appointed to do tours in Angola in the near future and it will be illegal to take anybody else as a guide.

Hunting, with no proper infrastructure concerning documentation relevant to trophy export and firearms I don't see it happening soon. Except for that it seems that the game that is left is only found on the eastern side of the country.

Will I go again "Hell Yes !" it was an true adventure in a beautiful country where some places still looks like it was thousands of years ago. Rough and rugged and for the 4x4 enthusiast a must as well as the more serious photographer.

That mountain pass is quite unusual.

Thanks for all of the good info and photos.

I am envious of your adventure, and your confidence of youth that allowed you to make the trip. I have a couple of questions, though. If the bridges on the road through the pass were destroyed by South African forces, the fact that you drove over the pass must mean that there are public works under way. Are there others? What is the Angolan government doing for money?

Bill Quimby

Bill,

Yes there are public works on the move.
The Angolan government is actually making a lot of money and grossed I think $52 Billion US last year someone told me. Mostly out of oil and they are quickly surpassing Nigeria as Africa's biggest oil supplier.

The downfall is that only 5% of the population share in those riches with some super rich people in Angola while the other 95% of the country live on nothing. That is Africa for you.

So there is enough money but it's just very slowly trickling down into the rest of the country.

That is another reason why hunting will take sometime to start up the few that have resources and money to build a hunting industry will rather use it for oil or better money making schemes.

Thanks.

Excellent report, thanks for sharing.

WOW - fantastic adventure and thanks for taking the time and effort to share it with all of us.

Larry Sellers

Thank you very much for the detailed report and all the excellent pictures. It has been a very interesting and enjoyable read.

Brilliant report and pictures - thank-you for your time in sharing it.

Thanks for the report, I would love to do this trip.

What an adventure!

Since I've been reading your reports, I started researching the war in Angola from 1975 to 2002. Man, talk about confusing! Hard to make heads or tails out of who won. The losers, of course, as in most wars, were the civilians trying to survive in that war-torn place.

Thanks for posting about your adventure into Angola.

Keith

Frederick,

That was one hell of an adverture. I would give nearly anything to have been in your shoes. That was certainly some spice for your life. Great photos and great report. Thank you!!!


Perry

Frederik,

Thank you for the reportage and the photos.

Regards, Tim

WOW! Thank you for sharing this awesome adventure!

Monte

Yes, thanks for sharing your photos and the story of your adventure. Great write up, thanks again.

JPK

Thanx, everyone I'm glad you enjoyed it.
I'm just waiting to develop my films from the photos I took with my camera and then put them out at the Photo album section.

I cannot wait to see some of the pictures as well, I'm sure there will be some interesting one's.

Frederik,

Luckily you guys didn't visit Luanda!
You might have just hit this pothole in the middle of the city!!!

Frederik,

Thank you for a great trip, I enjoyed every minute of it! Looking forward to your next one.

SFC E7(retired)

Great trip