to put this is proper framing, concept is tp be your favorite mods for either AR10 or AR15 type RIFLES, which in the US also means at least 16" barrels.

caliber is nice to know, but not required, as changing a piston or trigger on a AR lower isn't likely to change results ...

then again, some folks state that the triggers on an AR10 have to be harder than AR15 ..

here's what I have in mind for my r25 / ar10
pmags
CMC trigger, 3.5# single stage (wish it could be 2.5)
replacing buffer with something that isnt rattlerattle crash/spoon on a cheese grater - thinking a hydro buffer

perhaps a popup sight setup, IF there's one made for the r25 and the front site sits on the gas block rail.

might consider a magpul collapsable stock..

Jeffe,

My standard approach to ARs is the following:

1) Upper is squared and barrel is bedded with blue loctite.

2) Usually a flat top w no barrel mounted front sight. Always a free floating forearm. Many nice ones out there ... YHMs are within my financial abilities.

3) Prefer midgassed barrels 18" or shorter except on .300 BLK where I think pistol position gas block is good. The midgassed rifles are less abrupt in action function than carbine length systems.

4) Always do some sort of decent trigger, either a 2 1/2 pound Bill Springfield single stage or a 4 pound two stage match trigger. There are some lovely triggers available but I can't really afford those.

5) I like telescoping stocks on 16" rifles with light to medium barrels. Usually use a military spec buffer tube, an H1 or H2 buffer, and a SOPMOD or Magpul ACS stock. I always put in an ambi single point mount plate under the castle nut.

For 18" and longer medium heavy to heavy barreled rifles I like the Magpul PRS stock. The buffer I like the best is now expensive and difficult to find ... the original Colt LMG hydraulic buffer. Do wish I had bought a couple more when they were $35 each.

6) All of my ARs have either a Smith's Enterprises brake or a flashhider/brake mount for a can. Again this is a matter of taste and there are many choices available now.

7) Pistol grip is another place where choice abounds. Magpuls are nice but I do have some plain jane as issued ones.

I do own one billet upper/lower pair. They are pretty and can be more accurately machined that some forged pairs. However, after finding that Aero Precision uppers and lowers are very precisely machined forged parts and are really inexpensive I just can't get excited about putting more than about $140 in a pair.

timney and JG both state that their 308 triggers have to be setup with harder springs to ensure consistant strikes on milsurp ammo --

not me making it up...

I'll be looking at bill's triggr and hydraulic buffers .. i really don't like the clank rattle of the std buffer

thanks for the advice

Based on my experience owning several Rock River AR15's, I recently purchased a Rock River LAR-8 with a 20" stainless barrel their fixed operator stock and a free float tube.

The RR two stage trigger is about 4 lbs but you would not think it to be that as the second stage is about 2 lbs.

After developing loads, I can say that I prefer the 20" barrel for the .308, especially if your interested in longer targets. I like the Burris QD PEPR scope mount the best and the Nikon mount almost as much. The Hogue grip is excellent and I like the RR operator stock.

This combo shoots well with several loads. Best ones are in the 0.6 MOA range (5 shots). Less optimal loads are in the 1.5 MOA range.

You don't have to and it's a mistake to put Loctite on the barrel extension. If your barrel extension doesn't fit correctly there you have a problem. Alexander Arms is one of the only companies that uses a super hardening blue LocTite on the extension and gas blocks and believe me lots of owners are very pissed off about it.

Jeffeoso I thought you were referring to the stock triggers. You are correct about many of the after market triggers not having a hard enough hammer spring. In fact I doubt most of them would have a hard time igniting 7.62x29 military primers. There are modes to either the bolt tail or firing pin flange in that case.

I've got a few RRA National Match trigers an think for the money they are pretty decent. I prefer a 20 inch barrel on a 308 too. I use the ArmaLite longer rifle length gas tube and the impulse is even softer then a midlength or DPMS rifle length.

Blue 242 does not make it difficult to disassemble an upper for a barrel change. The diameter of barrel extensions seems to vary somewhat. Bedding an AR just makes better groups.

I also like the RR two stage trigger.

The RRA Operator's stock is OK too. I do have one in addition to the SOPMODs and the ACS. Battery tube access is well thought out.

Alexander Arms doesn't use the Blue 242, they use another Blue in the 2000 series which is much more holding then Red we know so well. LocTite and others, make a whole line of fastener lockers. I had recently called them and asked them if you could use their bearing sleeve retainer in other applications. They said yes indeed. They said you could use it on threads just like others in their line and went on to say it was much stronger then the Red. Guess what color the bearing sleeve retainer is? Blue. They don't just make the medium strength Blue 242.

RE collapsible stock castle nuts. I assemble a few now and then. I have found that the best pratice so far has been to assemble tighten twice (tighten to spec torque, back off, retighten) then go do whatever testing you desire. Come back afterwards and retighten to spec, then once certain the nut is not going to come off for any foreseeable reason, stake it in place as per ordnance manual. The two notches on the nut and the end plate. Done.

JUST MAKE SURE IT IS STAYING ON, else you'll need an new end plate and maybe a new nut too, as you'll probably have to drill out the staked metal, if you did it right....

Jeffee, before yoy S#@*can the buffer you might want to look into a new buffer spring. I bet you'll find that's where the majority of your noise is coming from. On AR-15's they make a flat wire spring that makes all the noise on that end of the rifle disappear. I've not looked for one for a AR-10 style rifle though.

thanks guys, and much thanks, Terry

looking
CMC trigger
flat spring (tubb)
buffer -- might get the spring and see...

i HATE the noise.. and its VERY loud through my custom ears and ear muffs ...

heck, i might be the only person i know that tries to never willingly take a shot without ear protection

Jeffe,

I really didn't notice the spring/buffer noise in an AR until I mounted a suppressor on a 300 BLK. Then it is the loudest sound when you pull the trigger!

Will have to look at the flat wire springs for that rifle.