I got to shoot some AR types today. One was a Bushmaster & the other was an Anderson. The Anderson had a very nice trigger. I was impressed!! Hitting pop cans at 100 yds with iron sights. Off a bench with NO rest or sandbags. There are so many AR's out there. For a newbie, what kind to choose? Are there certain "Uppers" that one should mate with certain "Lowers"?? What do you guys like or prefer? You comments would be valuable to me. Thanks Jake

this is a VERY short course on this
generally, uppers and lowers are fully interchangeable - billet sets are machined from a chunk and a SET just MIGHT fit better.

common thought is that the lower isn't important for accuracy - i don't agree, but that's common wisdom

triggers are a black art and a science - i strongly suggest just buying a CMC or Timney for your first one -- 3.5-4.5 lb .. single stage or double is up to you - if you are used to commercial rifles, a single stage would be better

there's 2 pin sizes -- unless you have an actual colt, its always small pins

BCG -- short answer - buy a decent one, doesn't matter if its m16, ar, full or semi auto -- IT DOESN'T MATTER -- i like the nickel boron BCG due to its easier to SEE if it's clean or not

gas systems -- well, here's the thing, the longer the system the "softer" the recoil, but its tough to get anything shorter than 18" to run a rifle length -- there's NOTHING wrong with a mid, and many people like carbine (i don't, but that's just my choice)

barrels - i like stainless - many people dont -- don't get the radical fast twist and expect it to shoot light or even some milsup accurately - i generally go 8 twist, 9 is fine. i also like soda straws for a carry around/hunting rifle -- h-HBAR is great for carry and shoot - "giant" bull barrels are a friggin hassle to do anything but target shooting with

gas block diameter -- doesn't matter -- write down what yours is and buy that gas block

flatop vs carry -- a3 vs a2 -- want a scope? flatop -- only ever irons? A2 -- backup sights? there's a religion founded on these choices -

m4 feedramps, buffer tube diameter, stocks, grips, -- well, it matters, and it doesn't -- just buy a consistent size and go with it

forearms - i like free float forearms, but that's 100% choice - pick what looks cool, as all that matters is that you aren't pushing the barrel around and it suits you

muzzle end devices -- this is where i get away from most people -- i like linear compensators - all the holes pointing FORWARD as it really reduces the sound pressure back at me and to the sides -- sure it "increases" recoil.. who cares, it's more pleasant to shoot -- but get a threaded barrel for your choice

i like forward assist - it weighs more, though, your call

charging handles - go stock first, really

lastly -- chamber-- get the wlyde -- let me say that again -- NO OTHER CHOICES, get the wlyde -- match 223 chambers have problems with milsurp /import ammo, a perfect 5.56 chamber is SLOPPY

in short - get a cmc/timney trigger, no faster than 8 twist, wlyde chamber -- oh, yeah, surplus arms (with is the same as) Palmetto arms make good uppers and lowers....

parting thought - anything one off is going to cost 5 times the mass produced --

All depends on what your intended use is going to be.

If one is looking for just a general use rifle self-defense basic range use.

I would buy a mid priced Ruger or S@W both are very reliable and work well.

If one is looking to wack varmints out pass 300 yards a longer barrel and a up graded trigger would be useful.

3 gun rifles on the top end are another story but until you reach up that high a standard rifle well give you a lot of use.

There are dozens of manufactures/assemblers out there very few make there own receivers or other parts.

The last AR I bought was a standard Ruger but then I buy AR mainly for defensive purposes.

When it comes to shooting tiny groups and varmints I have bolts guns that work better.

I don't like chasing brass.

I use the semi autos for shooting coyotes run by the hounds.

But then most of the time my Ruger mini 14 ranch rifle gets that job.

Again it is all about what you intended use is going to be.

hi jake,
the other posters gave you some good advice. let me give you my take. its free so you know what it is really worth.
I now have 63 AR-15 style carbines to maintain for the police department I used to work for. being a gov't entity when it is time to purchase -- low bid wins, therefore they are from an assortment of makers. colt, bushmaster, dpms, Olympic arms, rock river, and probably a few others I cannot remember right now. the original 10 have been in service since 2000 and still in service.
all of them have been more than accurate enough to fulfill their intended mission of being minute of man out to 300 yards. they all function well with good magazines and good ammo. they ALL break with no maker taking a lead in that category. they have been shot enough that almost half have had barrels replaced as it was impossible to qualify with the gun due to the barrel wear. the rock rivers and the dpms guns have been the most consistant overall for accuracy but the colt barrels seem to last longer. they all get treated like a carpenter treats his eastwing hammer, they are tools that need to work when called upon.

quote:

I now have 63 AR-15 style carbines to maintain for the police department I used to work for. being a gov't entity when it is time to purchase

I fully agree having been the armorer for a 500 man dept.

For 90 percent of the people on the Dept. Their weapons are just another tool.

We ran all colts rifles so parts and maintenance was a lot simpler then having to deal with a bunch of different manufactures.

But with any thing stuff wears out.

The biggest need for armorer services was cased by careless handling and vehicle crashes. More guns were destroyed in crashes then any thing else.

been pretty fortunate in that regards. only lost 1 AR and 1 Rem 870 to car wrecks.

Thanks ALL for the information!!!

All the above was good information from a site where guys actually shoot their rifles not doll them up like Barbie.

For a first time buyer I'd suggest a factory rifle from Bushmaster if you''re not going to shoot much. Then Colt, Bravo Company, FN, Daniel Defense if you think you're going to get serious about it. There are even more expensive sources that make great stuff but those listed would be fairly affordable and reliable. Putting a different brand upper and lower together means you have to sort out any problems yourself where a complete rifle goes back to the manufacturer if it's a jamamatic or not accurate.

Remember that there are different grades of ammo and "mil-spec" means it's the minimum the government will accept. Genuine "match" ammo will show you what your rifle will do, ball is for blasting.

Finally don't scrimp on optics if you go that route. Those $69 red dot sights are NOT as good as a $600 Aimpoint. You get what you pay for.