Well, I got drawn for a multi-season deer permit in Washington State… That means that rather than being limited to one weapon type and its associated season (modern, muzzle loader, or bow), I can participate in all of them!

Having never shot a bow before, I started on this forum and read several of the links on bow selection. I then went to the Cabelas store near Olympia (they have an indoor range) and was fortunate to find a very helpful employee there who taught me the basics of shooting, and let me try out a few bows. I found a Parker Buck Hunter that I was able to shoot somewhat well and was reasonably priced (280 including sights and quiver). They tuned it for me, set the draw weight (63 pounds) and length (30 inches), adjusted the peep site, and helped me pick out some of the basic accessories.

I’m quite pleased with this and while I’m sure I will want to upgrade to a better system in the next couple years, this will at least get me through this year’s season.

I was really quite surprised how easy they are to shoot, and how consistently accurate compounds are.

I do have a couple questions though.
1. For broad heads, what weight is a good weight for deer? I would assume 100 grain would be sufficient. Is there a good source of data with a table or something that will match broad heads to game animals?
2. Not knowing what weight broad heads I would be using, I bought both 100 and 125 grain field tips to sight in with. If I select 100 grain broad heads, and get sighted in with 100 grain field tips, do I need to re-sight in with the broad heads? Is it safe to assume a 100 grain broad head will fly the same as a 100 grain field tip?

I guess I need to think about muzzleloaders next…

Welcome to the wonderful world of bowhunting! Be careful it's very addictive

You will want to use the same weight broadheads as your fieldpoints. I shoot 1oo grain and does the job well on deer. You will have to see if your broadheads will shoot to the same point of impact as your field points. But before you resite your bow you may want to try turning the broadheads to match your fletchings. It works for me.

Your real challenge will be learning to estimate distance and compensating with you sites for different distances.

Have fun!

100 grains should be plenty but like oops says you will have to tune the broadheads as they will no doubt fly different from field points. That is unless you choose an expandable head which have their fair share of pros & cons. Not that this site does not offer some good info - check out archerytalk.com for everything and anything about bows & archery from tuning to hunting and all about products

Welcome aboard Rob,

One of the most comprehensive sites that I know of, with links to just about everything archery/bowhunting related is Bow Jackson some of the links are dated, but it is a great reference.

Years ago - got started in archery just about the same way - found myself invited on a bowhunt - rest is history.

Your setup will get the job done on Whitetails. As far as tuning your bow - go to the Bow Jackson web page and put your cursor on arrow shaft charts in the upper left hand corner and you will see a link to the Easton Tuning Guide. This may seem a bit overwhelming at first, but as you learn more about bows and arrow flight, it will come in handy.

Great sport - the blessing/curse is that everybody will try to help you.

Best of luck in the field Rob. You'll find bow hunting to be the apex of our sport.
David

Rob,
You gotta watch the regs here in our, not so bright Game Dept., state.
Mechanical heads are illegal!
Also there is not the clearest reg on how much arrow weight per pound of draw. The way I interpet the reg is for every pound of draw you must have 6 grains of arrow weight. I have been told I am right and that I am wrong. (including by the WDFW)

You can tune the bow, if you have the correct arrow, to put feild points and broadheads in the same hole +/- a little.

The best site I found for ALL archery related is: Archery Talk

Let me warn you though, make sure you have time cause once you open the link, you can spend HOURS there just reading!

Hope I don't start a pissing contest. Broadhead weight doesn't matter. It's not like choosing a rifle bullet and thinking that more weight means more hitting power.

For a given animal you decide on total arrow weight and a head weight that flies well. The different arrow weights allow you to adjust for FOC.

the chef

PS.

I just reread this post and realized that I just reiterated everything that everyone else has already said. I was really tired last night and should have been sleeping instead.

Next time I'll post something of earth shattering inportance!!!

the chef