I posted this last fall, my brother and his deer but not his arrow! It was a mechanical that had 1 blade hit the spine which pushed the arrow sideways and prevented any further cutting. It was a bad place to shoot the deer anyway IMHO and I cannot say that a broadhead would have had a different effect, but at least it would have cut and possiblly severed the spine.

If I were ever to use mechanicals on an animal I think I would limit it to turkeys, they might be pretty good on those.

That's a nice buck!

I have shot two deer in the spine. Both were with Muzzy's. The blades did not bend but the deer did. Flat out on the ground for good.

I'm a T-head man also. Well I was until I went traditional, now it woodsmans. My wife, dad, and myself all use 85, 100, and 125 gr T-head, respectively. I've had some that would not fly correctly if there was a little misalignment in the insert-to-ferrule fit. Now I match insert to shaft to broadhead for the life of the component. If the shaft gets ruined, I'll build another just to that head. Take some time but when the broadheads fly right out to 50yds its worth it.
BTW up til last year, my wife shot 2-blade expandables. She took two deer with them, both were down within 30yds. Also hit buck in the shoulder, penetrated about 1/4". No broadhead would have penetrated from her light setup.

Like was stated earlier, good heads on good, correctly spined shafts with proper alignment and enough fletching will get good flight.

scott, if alignment of the head is a little off and makes your arrows fly funny, you are out of tune. I can demonstrate that a properly tuned bow will shoot the crookedest broadhead right into the bullseye. To test, I have installed smaller inserts so that the broadhead could be really pushed off center with no change in flight or accuracy.

OMUHONA,
Maybe we can help if you tell us a bit about your set-up.
What type of bow and what draw weight and draw length? What type and spine and length of arrows? (Like an Onieda Eagle at 30 inch draw length set at 62#'s shooting Easton xx75' in 2413 cut to 31 inches - my setup using 130 grain Muzzys)
These to determine if everything looks alright

What weight fieldpoints? If you were shooting 100 grain Muzzies, I assume you were shooting 100 grain fieldpoints but 125's are the most common and if you are unsure, I would assume the 125's were what you had AND when trying to shoot the broadheads they will not fly to the same point of impact. If you are shooting 100 grain field points then the tuning is probably the issue.
Are you shooting release or fingers?
What type of rest are you using?

Thanks

bfrshooter
Say what you will but I've been shooting for many years. Tuned different ways. Shot broadheads well without doing all the extras. Doing all those little things instills confidence and increases the chances of a broadhead flying correctly even in less than optimum conditions. Slower bows aren't as critical with broadheads. Above about 250fps things get a little more critical. Personally I'm a little skeptical about the undersized inserts/crooked broadhead X-shooting. Aerodynamically they won't be stable. Just like a bullet that isn't seated correctly and has a little runout.

I was thinking of the complete arrow as the bullet. Comparing a poorly made bullet with the point a little off the centerline.

Yes, spine and fletch come into play. That is why I shoot a stiffer arrow,say an A-spine on the Easton chart (2317). A weaker arrow will fly well but the stiffer arrow consistently shoots the broadhead better. Same with fletching. Shooting 4"-5" vanes with a straight clamp may shoot well but a 5" helical shoots better consistently.

Definitely the complete arrow is more important,hence, my efforts to keep all components in alignment. The less misalignment, the less the arrow & fletching have to compensate for which will result in truer flight.

I am using a Golden Eagle/Fusion Velocity, double cam bow, 27 inch draw length set at 70 #'s.
Shooting Easton carbon Evolution/ 340 carbon composite, 28 1/2 inch cut.
Using 100 grain field points/ 100 grain Muzzies.
Shooting with release over a Mongoose Universal rest.

OM,

I'd also recommend you have someone bring you a Whisker Biscuit for an arrow rest.

OMUHONA,
I looked at the Easton site and depending on weather I used Hard or Medium cams and 28 or 29 inch arrows I got different shafts wiht 240's part of the time. I also used 125 grain and also came up with different shaft selection so I think you might be right on the edge or being under or overspined with your set-up.
Have you paper tuned both the field points and broadheads to see what is happening? They should look close to the same through paper.
Also are the broadheads flying differently than the field points or just inconsistant or are they grouping nicely just not with the fieldpoints?

Thanks


http://www.eastonarchery.com/

Scott, I do make sure my heads are aligned. I only made the tests to show that the proper arrow and tune will shoot a crooked head straight.
Lets put it this way, if the head is not pointing toward the bullseye after the arrow leaves the bow, whether with a release or after the archers paradox with fingers, the head will steer the arrow off target. This is 100% an arrow match-tune problem. Once the bow is tuned to a matched arrow, it doesn't matter what head you hang on the end or if it is perfectly in line. I can switch between broadhead weights and or arrow sizes and in 5 minutes be in perfect tune. I shoot three different sizes of arrows and two weights of heads from the same bow and can adjust for each without shooting. I shoot 3 Brownings from 76 to 82# and interchange arrows and heads between them. I also have at least 3 different makes of heads in my quiver. They all shoot to the same point of aim. After 55 years in archery and hunting deer for 22 years, I have way over 220 bow killed deer. Lost exact count years ago. I have killed deer with the NAP Splitfire and like it, but it costs too much. It is also not needed because any head will shoot. What I look for is size and strength. I like to use the same head for at least three deer by re-sharpening them. Being retired it is hard to buy expensive stuff.

Scott. you have it right with you arrow selection. Toothpicks going real fast do not have the penetration or killing power.

I am busy papertuning with the method 'bfrshooter' gave me, so I will come back with the results.

Thanks