I was looking at a Mathews Switchback last weekend. I had one of the guys in the shop drop the weight from 60 to 50 lbs so I could try to draw it back. I injured my back years ago, but I sure like the bow. I discovered when I finally got it all the way back that it bottomed out. I used to shoot with a bare bow with a glove. He told me it was normal to bottom the bow out, I had hit what was called the wall, but I believe he is full of it and don’t know what he is talking about. The PSE I used to use had the same problem until some as*hole stole it from me.

Back to the original question how do I determine my draw length and is it normal for a bow to bottom out when I am at full draw with fingers?

I was wondering how much could you drop the weight on a 70 lb Mathews Switchback without affecting accuracy.

I sure like the looks and feel of the Mathews Switchback it is sweet.

All modern compound bows are designed to be drawn back against "the wall".

Whether you use fingers or a release you will want to be against that wall.

When I fingers (many years ago) I liked to draw to the corner of my mouth.

The 70# Switchback should not be shot below 60#.

As to what draw length is best for you, you need to try a bunch of bows to find out what feels best.

The SB is a nice bow. I have one and love it.....BUT... I have a cam problem! It ate my buss cable within about 1500 shots! Just as the cam rolls over it leans! YIECKS!
Mathews is sending another cam and buss, so all is good, but it sure is close to the season openner!!! I dusted off my LX tonight!
Anyway, back to your question. All compounds have a wall and that is where you want to shoot from.
If you are shooting a release, pick one and figure out your anchor point for that release. A recurve bow works well for this, since it does not have a wall.
You also need to consider if you will be using a loop or not, and if so, how long of one.
The SB does not have any draw length adjustments.... NONE!!!
You can however, use a loop to tweak your draw length.
I shoot 30 inches with fingers but my SB is 28.5 with a release and a loop. I touch the string with my nose and edge of my lip as an anchor point.
A 70 pound SB will drop to 60, but if you want to shoot 60, buy a 60/50.
Good luck!

I wouldn't think the Switchback would be a very good bow for a finger shooter but, you may be able to shoot it fine. Most of the short modern day bows are designed to be shot w/ a release aid.

On the Draw length note, a good way to get a close idea of your draw length is to make a fist w/ your bow hand and pretend you are holding a bow at full draw in your natural position and place that fist on a wall. While your bow arm is pretty much perpindicular to the wall have someone measure from the wall by your fist to the back corner of your mouth (Right corner for right handers).

That method will get you in the Ballpark of your draw length but, like the others stated it is important to draw bows at diff. draw lengths to see what is the most comfortable.

Good Luck

Reloader

swede,

I'm not going to brag on the sb but you can't go wrong with any of the mathews bows.

If you are wanting to get in the ballpark for draw length get a yard stick and place one end at the indentation where your neck and chest meet. then extend your arms finger extended and hold the yard stick. where your middle fingers end will give you a real close draw length. you may have to adjust a 1/2 inch for release or loop.

good luck and good shooting

Thanks guys for your replies after Muzzle-Loader season is over I am going to try to get back to the pro shop where I found the Switch Back and talk some more to the guys that work there. One of them showed me a rest that would drop down when you released the arrow, and a sight that looked like a tube about 2.5 inches dia. It was made in several sections with pins/points that were adjustable. I didn’t get the name of the sight but it was cool looking and looked like it might be a florescent?

They also showed me some carbon fiber arrows. I used to use aluminum but they would bend all the time. I had some hollow fiberglass once but they would shatter sometimes when they hit the target. It has been about 25 years since I have been into archery and things have sure changed a lot.

What do you use for a rest and sight and why do you like it? And what type of arrows do you recommend for Deer with a 60/50 lb bow?

Thanks again for your help.

The #70 should go anywhere between 60-70 lbs and yes it is supposed to have a wall/stopping point at full draw. I have seen bow shops put an extra twist in the line and reach 72-73 lbs. I have a SQ2 that I really like, but it looks like a kids bow. Good Luck!

If you havent been around archery in that long, you do have some catching up to do!
I really like Carbon Express graphite arrows. They are moderate in price and are good and durable.
The sight you mention sound like it could be a Copper John Dead Nuts, but could be one of several. The pins are all made of fiber optic material these days. Good stuff!
There are several drop away rests these days and all are basicly the same. If you are shooting fingers, look at the Wisker Biscuit. Its not a drop away but a great simple rest for hunting.
Have ya some fun and good luck!

The PSE Carbon Force Extreme 300s are the best Carbon arrows I've used. There are alot of good arrows out today, Easton, PSE, Vapor, Beeman, Carbon Express, Game Tracker, etc., etc.....

I like Truglo all metal sights w/ fiber optic pins. They are not too pricey and they are very durable. I currently have the "Lite Sight" which, has a small light that shines on the pins late in the evening. The light is kind of overbearing so, I covered it w/ black electrical tape and punched a tiny pin hole directly over the led bulb. Fiber optic pins take very little light to light up.

The NAP Drap-Aways are nice (the 2000 and the 4000 Models). The Wisper Biscuit rest is nice but, it's tough on fletching.

Good Luck w/ your rekindled Hobby.

Reloader

Carbon arrows are the way to go. Easton is the leader for sure, and I believe they make the PSE Carbon Force arrows (which, like Reloader, I like very much) under contract for PSE.

The sights which are tubular sections are very popular, and for good reason. Trophy Ridge and Montana Black gold are excellent quality. They both make high end rests as well, Trophy Ridge a few more models, their Drop-zone rests are awesome. The Muzzy 'Zero Effect' is also good.

Compound bows are most efficient and quitest when they are shot at their maximum draw weight--both limb weight bolts all the way down.

I always would prefer a bow a few pounds under my desired max draw weight that was bottomed out (at it's max draw weight adjustment) than one that was backed off quite a bit. Backing a bow way off will also alter the draw length.

In regards to increasing a bows draw weight by altering the string length, you must increase draw length (by string alteration) in order to increase draw weight. This is not a method to achieve much poundage change, as someone else mentioned he had seen a couple of pound change by tweaking the string length, (you would actually untwist (lengthen) the string to gain pounds and twist more (shorten) to reduce poundage. This is real fine tuning however.

Sorry for the rambling post, but I would strongly recommend getting a bow that is at or near it's max draw weight adjustment to achieve the weight you desire. Pick some carbon arrows that will be at about 8 grains per lb. of draw weight, and most of all, in regards to draw length, be sure you are comfortable at full draw, i.e. your personal feel is the main issue at the end of the day!

Good Luck and good shooting.