Before I spend half a day in frustration making one, does anyone have a make or part number for a router to make this detail?

Got a photo or drawing? Some of us may know it by a different local name.

Mike,
By widows peek I am referring to the 3/8 or so double radius cut from the ebony for the forend tip and sticking into the forearm proper. I will see if I can come up with a pic that looks ok online, if not I will draw one. Thanks, Earl.

As viewed from the underside.

Porno huh!
Butch

When I first read the orginal post I thought maybe you meant a "Widow's Peak." Now that I see the drawing maybe it is something a widow would like to "peek" at!

These aren't all that hard to do...don't over-mechanize. Locate your dowel(s) as if it were a straight 90 degree tip. the ebony pat (male) can be easliy shaped on a mill with about a 5/9" end mill...now spray the ebony male part with lacquer, a couple coats. The spotting compound you use will not soak in to later compromise the joint

Just "spot and chisle", using the dowel(s) as a 'positioning device" When you get 100%, clean off the lacquer you sprayed,...laquer thinner works! glue and clamp

quote:

Originally posted by Duane Wiebe:
the ebony pat (male) can be easliy shaped on a mill with about a 5/9" end mill...

Where does one get a 5/9" end mill. Can a person use a 1/2 and open the rest by hand with a chain saw file?

HA! Well...maybe you could lap it in with a 30-09 case????

quote:

Originally posted by Big Earl:
Before I spend half a day in frustration making one, does anyone have a make or part number for a router to make this detail?

Earl

Google up "Amana Router bit 54192" There are several other makers for "leaf edge beading" bits. This one has just a 1/4 inch radius, so a 1/2 inch end mill to square off the ebony tip and form the peak matches nicely. No hand fitting needed. The increased surface area for gluing is significant. I think others use small dowels, just gluing it in with epoxy seems to be strong enough to me.

Roger

quote:

Google up "Amana Router bit 54192" There are several other makers for "leaf edge beading" bits.

That looks like it would work perfect. I had always thought of making my own cutter for this but this would be easier.
Thanks for the tip Roger.
Steve

Pete Grisel showed me how to form the male ebony part with an end mill, I'll have to check my notes but I think it was 5/16" radius and using the same technique form the matching radius on a shop made 'D' type cutter, which can be used to cut the female part on the fore end.

We then used a simple jig to bore the two dowel pin holes for the stock and tip. Glued it with waterproof carpenters glue, used the tail stock on the lathe to press things into place.

No hand fitting required for an air tight fit.

Duane: Thanks for the advice but, if I did it by spotting in then I wouldnt get to use my new dream mill. I am challenged with hand tools more demanding then fingernail clippers.
Rodger: Thanks a bunch, the proper nomenclature you gave led me to find the perfect router bit. Made by Freud since theirs is shank it might save me an R8 change. Also went with a 3/8 radius since I have a bunch of cutters. Yep, I think just glue would work as well but I am so accustomed to using dowels I will just keep doing that.


New Garage Toy:

There's nothing better than power on all 3 axis, especially the knee.
Butch

quote:

Originally posted by butchlambert:
There's nothing better than power on all 3 axis, especially the knee.
Butch

+1
especially the knee

The old machinist joke goes: The young apprentice ask the old timer “why do they call it a knee mill†The old timer tells the the newbee to stand over it and engage the power feed. The newbee does so and has the handle whack him in the privates. “That’s why they call it a knee mill†says the old timer looking down at his apprentice.

I use a cutter I bought at the Woodworker's Store a few years ago. It is called a 1/2" Pointed roundover. It is a carbide tipped tool the cuts a 1/4" female radius in the forend. I mount the stock vertically on an angle plate and hang it over the edge of the mill table, swing the head around, cut the tip flat and perpendicular to the top of the stock and run the cutter to a bit less (.010") than the .250 radius depth. It is then a simple matter to mill the end of the ebony block to the peak. after a bit of trial and error I can usually get it to fit without seeing any daylight between the parts.

This is the address of the tool company that made it, sorry, no phone number.

Whiteside Machine Co
4506 Shook Rd
Claremont NC 28610

Whiteside Machine Co
www.whitesiderouterbits.com

4506 Shook Rd
Claremont, NC 28610
(828) 459-2141

Well I got the router bit online and finaly gave it a whirl. Worked fine without any daylight showing thru. I went 3/8” and tested it on a couple pieces of scrap first. If anyone is interested the link for the bit is:
http://routerbitworld.com/Freu...p/freud%2099-023.htm
Thanks everyone for the advice and help.

Big Earl

I just mix up a small amount of lamp black (or a dab or inletting black) with some epoxy to stick that on. With a tight fit like you have, it may not be needed, but it sure does hide the joint nicely!

The Amana cutter I mentioned has a sharp tip so you don't get the blunted peak. Nothing wrong with either, just a matter of preference.

Roger

5/9" thats right between 2.5/4 and 11/18"
Wait can you mix fractions and decimals.
Or if you want to tick of someone overseas tell them it's 5/8 of a millimeter they hate that. IT"S .625mm
oh and just for GP 5/9" = .55555" or an 11/16" that's being resharpened

Roger,
Yes, I found the little flat to be discouraging at first but now I think it looks pretty cool. It’s only .095 so it’s not as bad as it looks. I have been gluing with acraglass mixed with black dye for ten years now and am happy with it but still looking for something new and improved.