Hi-

I need some assistance adjusting the crimp stage of my 2 3/4" 12 ga. loads on a P&W 375C. I think pictures will help illustrate my troubles.

I tried following the instructions in the manual and made some progress in adjusting the final crimp (going from left to right), but I am afraid they still have a large hole in the center that can leak shot. Also, the finished shells are both tall and lack a taper crimp. (red shell factory AA shell for comparison)



Close up of reload on left and a factory round for comparison on the right.


Lastly, is this sizing die too tall? I thought there was a chance it is a 3” die instead of a 2 ¾” since none of the finished shotshell protrudes above the die.


I suspect my problem lies in the spring loaded taper crimp adjustment, but I'm not willing to ruin anymore shells trying just yet. I'd rather hear your advice first.

I appreciate any help you can give me.

Thanks!

Screenshot from instruction manual:

I hate to speculate since it's been so long since I loaded on my 800B, which basically uses the same dies, but I'm thinking your shot column, which means your wad, is too long. It also looks like you're crunching one side of the crimp in the pics. I'm not sure what would cause that, unless it is again that your shot column is too long, or unless your crimp ram is bent which is unlikely but not impossible. The hull being even with the top of the die is normal. Believe me, just because a certain combination of powder, shot, and wad is listed doesn't necessarily mean that it will load a good shell. Most do, but some certainly don't.

BTW those shells aren't ruined, just shoot them and reload again.

The old 800Bs wouldn't taper at all, and looking at that set up, I'm not sure how much taper you can get out of it, but again, I haven't used one of those machines in 25 years.

Taper is not really essential except for some semi-autos. Some feed non-taper fine, some don't.

Thanks for your input, Fat Cat.

I too noticed the one-sided crunch on some of the hulls I first crimped. I was over-pressing them and fixed that by backing off the die a little.

After a little research, I found that you are correct about the "B" style dies not having the taper crimp feature, which is fine by me since these will be used in an over-under.

However, the shells are a little proud and sticking out of the top of the seater more than I would like. They are suppose to be flush with the top and you are suppose to be able to place a straight edge on top of the die and not have it touch the shell. This is definitely note the case an I can't seem to figure out how to get it below the rim despite many different adjustments.

Any other suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks again!

Again for comparison, I pressed a loaded factory round into the die (red shell). You clearly see that it is significantly lower than my attempts. I cannot seem to get the crimp below the rim of the sizing die.

I know this load combination works and can produce great looking shells because I have used it for years with a Hornady/Pacific 366 Auto (flooded and ruined).

All I can say, if you know the load works, change one thing at a time and see what happens. First thing I'd do is make the crimp ram longer, that is crimp deeper a bit at a time. Other than than, I don't know, again, unless your shot column is too long. I read what you said, but perhaps the newer hulls have less capacity for powder, which would move the column higher. I dunno, just speculating.

Something else I don't understand, in your pics above it "looks" like the factory load is as long or longer than the reloads. But put in the die, the factory would have to be shorter but does not appear so in your pics. Obviously it is hard to judge from pics but that's how it looks to me.

I just measured the OAL of the shells. The factory is 0.030" to 0.045" shorter than my better looking crimp attempts.

I'll give a call to the guys at Ponsness Warren tomorrow I guess.

Thanks again!

I'd be interested to hear what they say, never too old to learn a new trick....or, at least, I hope not.

BINGO!!

I made a jig and carefully ground the sizing die down using the fine stone on a bench grinder. I beveled the top edge to mimic the factory finish. The overall length of the modified sizing die was 2.255".

Without making any further adjustments, I got about 100 nearly perfect loads ready for this weekend's hunt and the rest of the season. Oh, and I didn't have to spend the $70 plus shipping as recommended by the tech at Ponsness & Warren today.

Thanks for your help!

-Kenati

P.S. I still miss my progressive though. I'm sure the question about the P&W "800+ vs. 2000" has been asked a thousand times before, so I'll do an archive search to gather opinions. I paid about half of what the 366 Auto is selling for today and I refuse to pay what Hornady is asking for a machine that is inferior to P&W's quality.

I don't see them all the time, but I see 800Bs for $200 to $300 now and then. Just keep you eyes open and maybe ask around the gun club.