I have at my disposal a MEC Jr. set up for 12 and I need to figure out how to modify the press to load 2 1/2" black powder shells. Anyone done this or is there a better way?

You might want to get a roll crimp tool.

The big advantage with roll crimping is increased case capacity over the fold crimp in the short cases.

If your Mec single stage press is anything like my 700 VersaMec, then there is an adjustment at the bottom of the mast where it fastens to the base; different mounting holes for different case heights. But don't ask me which is which. I change from 2.75" 16ga, to 3" 12ga, to 3.5" 10ga.

I don't think MEC puts a hole in their setup for 2.5" shells. I did some 10 ga 2.5" shells on my sizemaster by making a spacer that I put under the shell at the crimp stations. I set up the machine for 2.75" shells and all the other stations worked ok.
C.G.B.

MEC sells a spacer for loading 2 1/2. Easy to install. I tried it using 2 3/4 hulls cut down.
Couldn't get a good crimp. Then I bought the roll crimp tool but never got around to trying it. A friend of mine makes great roll crimp 2 1/2 so it can be done.
I sent my gun back to England to be opened to 2 3/4 and new London proof.

With black powder in 2.5", you'll have to go roll crimp. With the bulk of black, there isn't enough length for a star/fold crimp. But roll works well for me. I just scrounge low base wad [for greatest internal volume] hulls from the trap grounds, trim to length, and use them once. Ballistic Products http://www.ballisticproducts.com have the roll crimp heads and card/cushion wads you'll need. BTW, plastic wads don't work for black powder loads - they tend to melt, and leave plastic stuck to the bore.

So the press operations will be limited to depriming/priming, wad seating and shot charging.
These can all be done without any adjustment to the press.

NB: Black powder charging should *not* be done with the press charge bar. Dip measure, or one of the black powder type measures are best.

You'll find you need a loading block; easily made from a piece of timber, with a spade bit and drill press.

I have been wanting to use slugs in a 16 ga. 2.5" chamber.......have alot of 2.5" birding shells .....FINALLY found 16 ga. 1oz. slugs at Midway.....gonna pull the shot and replace with slugs. .....this seems to be only quick way to the desired end result.
Has anyone out there done the same???

Get some new Fiocchi unfired hulls and trim down to 2-1/2".

http://www.ballisticproducts.c...-hulls/products/104/

Then buy an old roll crimper such as this one

http://www.gunbroker.com/Aucti....aspx?Item=205163927

or a new roll crimper tool by Ballistic Products, like this

http://www.ballisticproducts.c.../productinfo/ROLL12/

and go to work. Roll crimp loads are super neat, very workable and can produce wonderful patterns.

I took my 1896 W&S Screw Grip BLE to Alaska two years back so I could pop some Ptarmigan while hunting Grizzly.


Alan

Been there, seen it, done it. Didn't get the T-Shirt however.

Essentially if you use NEW cases, either plastic or paper, you don't need the MEC. Just do it as it "used to be done" with either scoops or a set of scales.

Measure out the amount of black powder either by volume or weight. Say 2 1/2 drams which is in weight 68 grains.

Tip it into the case. Put in the overpowder wad then the driving wad. Then the undershot wad.

You can use white felt or one of the modern fibreboard wads. Use a peice of dowel to press the wads down on the powder.

Then put in the shot. See how much space you have left above the shot load and if it is what you want either fold crimp or roll crimp.

If you roll crimp you will need an overshot wad, of course. If the space left above the shot load is too much tip out the shot and put in another undershot wad.

Crimp and use. A roll crimp is simpler but I would strongly advise using a MODERN roll crimp tool.

Why?

Because the modern ones grip ALL of the case rim whereas the old ones have two fingers that leave a mark on the case rim.

I have no experience of the roll crimp tools that you use in a drill BTW.

Hey Alan / GSSP...

quote:

I took my 1896 W&S Screw Grip BLE to Alaska two years back so I could pop some Ptarmigan while hunting Grizzly.

It looks like all went well-

Just put a 1/4" spacer under the shell holder and adjust the press. The only shotgun shell I currently reload is 16 gauge 2.5" on a 600 Jr.

quote:

Originally posted by Hawkeye Mountaineer:
Hey Alan / GSSP...

quote:

I took my 1896 W&S Screw Grip BLE to Alaska two years back so I could pop some Ptarmigan while hunting Grizzly.

It looks like all went well-

Hawkeye,

This.....


was icing.....



on the cake.....


Alan

quote:

Originally posted by msp:
I have at my disposal a MEC Jr. set up for 12 and I need to figure out how to modify the press to load 2 1/2" black powder shells. Anyone done this or is there a better way?

See my posting on 16ga 2.5in shells. VFR

quote:

This... was icing..... on the cake.....

-Darn sweet icing, I might add!

-Well done, Sir!

Some of the fellows over on the DoubleGun BBS a while back were using a process called a Harten Crimp to simplify loading 2 1/2" shells.
Do search on 'harten shotshell crimp' and you should get some hits and info.

...I've never used this with paper shells,,only plastic,,so I can't say if it'd work out (hold a firm crimp) with that little of paper material remaining.
A few test rounds would quickly tell.


Since the shortening process on a 2 3/4" case does not remove quite all of the crimp fold material from that case, the remaining short portion is still used in a standard star crimp. When completed, the abreviated star/harten crimp extends outward a bit further than a roll crimp accross the face of the round.

The empty area over the shot exposed by the removed/shortened hull material is contained by a standard overshot wad.

A combination of a star crimp and an overshot wad makes the system work.

What is the real benefit of the thing is that the standard reloading setup can be used as-is,,no spacers or adjustments to do.

The small additional step of placing the overshot wad on the shot before pre-crimp station is necessary though.

As to the BP melting plastic shells and plastic wads, that is true and will create a mess.

However, one combination I have found that will work is the Remington Black one piece hull will not melt with the use of American Pioneer BP sub powder.

I use those once and toss them as they looked pretty well spent even after one loading and they are easy to find anyway. I've never loaded real BP in the Remingtons so I can't say how they'd hold up to it.
I know some take offense to the use of a BPsub but it works nicely and for cleanup and lack of fouling mess in the action it's a great powder.


Fiber wads all the way though. I've not found a plastic wad that won't melt,,even the steel shot rated ones. Maybe there's one out there, but my supply of old stock card and fiber is good for now.

I have been loading 2 5/8 rounds in my 1889. I take a 3 inch Federal plastic shell and cut it down. Then I use a 600 Mec unadjusted for 2 3/4. I spoon the shot in, then use the Mec to put a felt wad and a lubed wad and just the cup of a plastic wad over top, drop the shot and use the standard star crimp. Works very well. However I am going to try a roll crimp.

Correction. Should have said I spoon the powder in.