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MAN! Just got back from the gun shop. > Winchester 209 primers/1000 - $41.00 #8 shot, 25lb bag - $40.00 RXP20 7/8th-oz wads/500 - $9.50 Unique or 20/28 powder/lb - $21.50 > For my normal skeet shooting load that works out to around $4.90 a box.......... > I can buy new shells for around $5.00 a box.... > Now, just why am I doing this again?! > Think I'll set my press back up for 16 gauge and leave it - for good! A1 | ||
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Shot is $10/bag cheaper and I buy powder by the 8 pound jug. It does make a bit of difference. Plus Claybuster wads seem to be doing well on the doves I've managed to hit ad are a tad less expensive. I agree that by and large not a lot of $$'s to be saved but I know that my 28 gauge sure gets more rounds fired because I reload for it. That factory stuff is outrageous!! Maybe Phoenix is an oddity on pricing. I was lucky enough to load up on primers and shot years ago and have enough to last me through the next five years or so if I continue to go at this rate. We were buying shot by the ton between a few of us and primers 50,000 at a time. Greg | |||
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I'd look for another gun shop from which to buy my supplies. However, even though the prices you quote are somewhat above the general market, it is true (at least for 12 and 20 gauge) that shotshell reloading generally saves little, if any, money so long as you are speaking of run-of-the-mill field loads. It costs a negligible amount more to reload a high-velocity or "magnum" load for pheasant, turkey, etc., but those loads in a factory version are closer to $15 instead of $5, so loading heavy hunting loads does pay. Due to the curious pricing structure, reloading 28 gauge and .410 bore shells also yields a handsome price savings. | |||
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I'm buying primers at $28.00 per thousand, Clays at $14.50 a pound (8 pound container), shot at $29.00 a bag and claybusters at $6.50 a bag of 500. Why reload shotshells? Easy .410's are $15.00 a box of 25. 16's are $17.00 a box of 25 and 10's are $23.00 a box of 10!! 12's I buy on sale with a 250 round case at $48.00 and tax. | |||
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Your costs will always be high picking up a pound of powder, a bag of wads etc. In addition the Brand name components have priced themselves out of the market. Look at using Down Range or Duster clone wads, Nobel Sport or Fiocchi primers, all of which are quality products without the big company mentality price tag. Purchase in lots of 5,000 or 8# jugs of powder. On line stores can often compete with your local shops if your orders are large enough, can't use it all, go 50 - 50% with a buddy. Check out Recobs Target Shop or Connie's Components for good on line pricing. Another option is to hit some local clubs or regional shoots and pick up components at the vendors tents for better pricing. | |||
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Thanks for the replies guys. I started into this again because I used to do it with my Dad. That was 30 years ago. Used to be like it is with pistol stuff - you could reload for 1/3 the price. (I still load pistol rounds.) But I'm finding out that it just isn't that way with the shotshells. I don't shoot the volume that some of you shoot - so buying large quantity may be out of my comfort zone at this point. Just trying to enjoy a bit of fun with the kids and show them “how we did it in the old days.” We shoot skeet here on the farm – throwing them with a couple of old manual machines. It’s going to be hard for a marginal user like me (less than 50 boxes a year) to save any money loading anything in 20 gauge skeet rounds. (The 16 is a different story!) I also wanted to be able to produce my own ammo in case the SHTF and the availability of ammo is gone. Can check that off the list – I CAN make functional ammo now. Never hurts to be able to "roll your own" when there is none at the store! It’s true that that there may be some places around to purchase components at a lower price – the gentleman’s place that I frequent is just a nice old feller and I enjoy talking with him when I go. His place is too small to pass on the economy of scale that would allow his prices to be competitive I guess. And the stupid “Hazard Fee” for online shipping makes primers/powder ridiculous at small quantities too! But it’s time to consider that… … . Tough being a novice and trying to get started on something in today’s world! It’s a dog eat dog world with no meat lose –and I’m wearing “milk-bone underwear” as they say! Thanks for the info to all as always – and happy shooting! A1 | |||
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Axton, I agree with everything you have observed about components, prices, and the relative economy of loading your own. There's something even screwier in the pricing of shotshells vs. components when you realize that there is an 11 percent excise tax (Pittman-Robertson) on loaded shotshells that is NOT included on components. I also agree that it's worth a couple of extra bucks to keep the old guy in the little shop in business a while longer. Try taking your shotgun's broken firing pin to MegaMart Internet Reloading Warehouse to get it repaired! | |||
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First off, how much you "save" reloading is determined by how much you pay for your components, and how much time you spend doing it. You have to factor in your time because it is worth something as well. Most dedicated Trap & Skeet shooters buy their components in bulk. For example several years back I purchased a ton of shot, (80, 25 pound bags). My wife and I made the drive up to St. George, Utah and purchased it direct from Larry Scott, owner of Scot Shot. We paid $12.00 a bag and loaded and hauled it ourselves. We're still shooting it. I usually buy a minimum of 10,000 primers at a time, and will look for the best price. As for powder I shoot nothing but 17.5 Gr. of Hodgdon Clays under 1-1/8 ounce of #8's with a WW AA-12 wad, or Claybuster equivilant. We usually purchase powder in minimum of 48 pound lots. Again, we look for the best bulk price. You need to buy in these quanitiies if you expect to "save" anything. It also spreads out the Haz-Mat fee over more components at once. Buying a pound of powder and a hundred primers at places like Cabela's assures only that you'll pay more than it costs to buy factory ammo. Yes, it takes a lot of money to lay out these kind of purchases, but it is the only way you will make out. Most people don't shoot enough to do so. It is not at all uncommon for my wife and I to go through 800 shells in an afternoon shooting in an ATA Tournament. Especially if we both shoot the doubles events. The prices on this stuff will only keep going higher. By having a very large supply you are able to spread this cost out over a much longer period of time. Reloading components don't "go bad" if they are properly stored and cared for. Bill T. | |||
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I reload 28g specifically for the cost savings, but 20s and 12s--for dove hunting---used to be a wash. This seems to have now changed as remington dove loads are now $6.29 a box, on sale. Even the cheap winchchester "lite" dove loads are $4.99 a box. If I buy my components right, I can easily beat these prices and not have to deal with goreons and opromises supporters. | |||
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Look for 12 Ga. target and light field loads to take a big price hike soon. Much like .45 ACP FMJ did a couple of years back. 3 or 4 years ago I was buying CCI Blazer Brass in .45 ACP for $9.95 a box of 50 at Wal-Mart. At the same time 9 MM Luger was $7.97 for the same. Now, 9 MM Luger is $9.47 a box of 50 for Federal Champion 115 gr. FMJ, while .45 ACP FMJ has gone to over $20.00 a box. Mark my words, 12 ga. target and field loads won't be far behind for long. If you can in fact find cheap 12 ga. BUY IT! Bill T. | |||
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thanks for the suggestion! I'll buy a few more cases. | |||
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Don't forget to enjoy the reloading itself. That's worth a bunch on it's own. Political correctness offends me. | |||
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Here is nuber one reason......Because handloaded shotgun shells offer more variety than what is available on the market. I waterfowl hunt with my 16s. Steel sucks! Bismuth not much better. Hevi Rules! The only Hevi 16s available is Classic Doubles. A wimpy 1oz #6 at 1160fps. I bought the 5th edition of The Sixteen Gauge Manual from Ballistic Products Inc for $9.95. In this manual are Hevi shot loads 1oz@1300, 1-1/8oz@1330, and 1-1/4oz@1295. These are the loads that make my sixteens really hammer the waterfowl. I am shooting over deeks, not much pass shooting. I do not own the equipment but have used it in the past to make fantastic loads. Andy We Band of Bubbas N.R.A Life Member TDR Cummins Power All The Way Certified member of the Whompers Club | |||
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Drew, How are these non lead, hard shot loads in soldered barreled doubles? Are they safe? I've got a Churchill Windsor 10 Ga. side by side that I'm afraid to shoot only lead in because it's got 32" barrels choked full and full. | |||
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Bill T, I have no idea. Might try contacting Briley. They are very helpful and knowledgeable concerning older shotguns. My understanding is the Classic Doubles are buffered and a different shot material from regular Hevi-shot. Is your chamber 2-7/8? I do not know if the softer variety is even available for reloaders. I would imagine you could safely shoot bismuth, but it is really expensive. Try www.ballisticproducts.com I bet they have a 10ga manual that will brighten your day! Andy We Band of Bubbas N.R.A Life Member TDR Cummins Power All The Way Certified member of the Whompers Club | |||
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No, the gun is chambered in 10 Ga. 3 1/2" Magnum. | |||
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Bill T You might ask GatoGordo...He is a 10ga man! I am not even certain if the "softer" Hevi is loaded in 10 or available as a componant. Andy We Band of Bubbas N.R.A Life Member TDR Cummins Power All The Way Certified member of the Whompers Club | |||
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Why reload? Specialty loads! | |||
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For older doubleguns, go to Ballistic Products and look at the shot called ITX. It's safe for most any shotgun barrel. | |||
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I have 4 machines on my bench if I have them all mounted. 2 are for shotgun. I rarely use them any more. When we went to steel. I never got set up for it. Trap, or skeet loads are somewhat cheap if you use Estates..etc. I bought a bunch of cases of 1300fps sporting clay loads in win, and rem when they were 4.97 at wally world. I did the same with the win xpert steel 1550fps rds. Prices have gone way up on everything. There are so many good choises with shotgun, and rifle ammo. To me! If I was not already set up, and I only just hunted a bit. I would not recommend someone to start reloading. Unless they think they might like the hobby. Sometimes I concider it a job. I stockpile everything if I can. The last time I bought shot it was under 10 bucks a 25lb bag. I still have plenty. If I get a new cal. for rifle shooting. Its tempting to not get the dies, but I always do. For shotgun unless you are a bigtime diehard with a mega super fast press...lol. I wouldn't do it. Unless you have too. With .410's 28's 16's and 10ga. You would save money. 12 and 20's can be had for fairly cheap if you shop around, and buy a bunch. I need to start burning my lead up. I think we will get to shoot it at the ranges. I fear we will see a end to lead in the field soon. Good luck on whatever you decide to do. | |||
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I put it all in perspective from a right wingnut. Loading 12 Gauge shells saves little if any money but by doing it now and stocking up on supplies, should the government try to take our toys/tools away from us we will have the knowledge and supplies to keep our shotguns killing pheasant and turkey for the rest of our lives. Even my spell checker wants to replace Obama, it just doesn't have any suggestions. jerry.baldwin06@comcast.net | |||
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I reload 20ga and probably don't save too much. A group of us that shoot skeet together order in bulk. It's actually kind of fun cranking out loads with a MEC 9000, especially when I have my grandson doing it. I also load 2.5in 16ga for my English doubles. I do this on a MEC JR and save a bundle. Another 9000 is set up for .410 and it has paid for itself. On specialty stuff, you save big time. When is the last time you saw 2.5in 16ga, #9shot, loaded to 6500psi, on the shelf at WallyMart? | |||
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If all you load is clay target loads the value of your time and the price of lead determine the WHY of reloading for you. On the other hand, if working out long range coyote loads, loading your own hard cast full bore slugs for rifled shotguns, or a batch of black powder #4 squirrel loads is your forte, then... | |||
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I realy enjoy reloading, even if I can only save 10 or 20 cents a box I will still reload. I have a MEC 600 Jr bought new back in 1985 for $45.00 it has surely paid for itself several times over. What other hobby can save enough money to do that. I have several other hobbies that cost me big bucks but none that save me even a single penney. | |||
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The trap club here buys by the truckload and sells to members at cost. They sell trap loads by the case (flat) too. Doesn't make it cheap, but it's less expensive than ammo over-the-counter retail. | |||
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My folks were here recently, we set in my shop and loaded more 16 gauge shells than all 3 of us will ever shoot. My Dad turned 78 in December. I'm sure you all know what I mean..... | |||
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Well for one it is a lot fun 2nd if one buy right you can shoot more for the same money. even with the high prices of shot ect if you are loading high end shells you can save a lot | |||
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Cost is really not a factor for me for shotshell reloading. My time is worth more than the little I can save. In particular if we are talking 12 and 20s. If I was shooting a modern 12 I would just buy my loads by the case or flat and be happy. However, if you shoot 16s or 28s, or older double guns it makes sense to reload. Its nice to make low-recoil, low-pressure loads for older guns that do not punish me or my guns. So I reload. Before all else, be armed. Machiavelli | |||
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