My 16yo son wants to start reloading. He is a water fouling fool. I reload for many rifles but know zero about reloading for a shotgun.

I am looking for a recommendation on a setup. Any advice would be appreciated. I assume he mainly wants to reload bismuth.

let me know what press, wads hulls etc.

thanks

Get him a copy of the Lyman manual first.

Then he needs to decide what gauge and shell length.

In my experience, the Ponsness/Warren 375 is the easiest one to figure out and make good shells with. It’s also the most expensive and has no option for a variable charge bar.

The Lee load all is the cheapest.

The MEC steelmaster is probably the best value if you are taking possible steel shot loads and other shot types.

The hornady falls between the MEC and the PW.

The acceptable variance in shotshells compared to metallic will drive you nuts, though…. They are a very different game.

I do my 12 ga 3.5 on a steelmaster and the rest of the 12 ga hunting stuff on a PW. Target I use a progressive PW for 12 ga.

20 and 16, the PW. (I have a MEC also for 20, but use the PW)

28 is a progressive MEC 9000… I only load target for 28.

.410 is a hornady, and likewise is skeet loads only.

Bismuth loading is essentially like lead shells, but measuring is different due to density.

Steel and the various tungsten shots are very labor intensive compared to lead.

Right now, finding shotshell primers and hunting shotshell powder can be a bit difficult. The shot is just money. Wads are probably the least trouble, but nothing is easy now.

My preferred bismuth load is using Blue dot powder, federal 209 primers, RP12 wads (or BP multi metal for 3.5”), and PSB buffer. Your son would be best off looking at the manual, what hulls he has, and buy components for his desired load, realizing he will need to experiment to find what he likes best.

I’d recommend having him learn by loading Target shells until he gets the hang of it.

Thanks for the information. I will purchase the Lyman manual. I have no doubt it will be a learning experience, but my son really likes to hunt waterfowl and with the rise in the cost of ammo he motivated. I think he will enjoy it also.

Not knowing anything about shot shell reloading, does the hulls one uses really that important? Assuming they are in good shape.

Thanks again.

Very good advice above.

May I add, if possible, go to a shop that sells these and see them while some explains their operation.

I have used Lee, MEC and Ponsness Warren.

PW wins hands down for me.

These people will have everything that you will need.
https://www.ballisticproducts.com/

There is a lot of high quality used reloading gear available at great prices. I guess the old guys are leaving a lot faster than the young guys are starting up.

As you will find in the manual, the recipes all depend on the hull.

Stack height (to get a good crimp), and pressure vary a lot based on that.

One issue that you will find is that you have lots of brands using the same hull, and some brands use different hulls in very similar loads.

Figuring out what you have to start with is the biggest challenge.

You can safely load most everything, but at the top end (which is most hunting loads for ducks) the specifics can be touchy.

The second step on the long road to political incorrectness

quote:

Originally posted by slim buttes:
Thanks for the information. I will purchase the Lyman manual. I have no doubt it will be a learning experience, but my son really likes to hunt waterfowl and with the rise in the cost of ammo he motivated. I think he will enjoy it also.

Not knowing anything about shot shell reloading, does the hulls one uses really that important? Assuming they are in good shape.


Thanks again.

Yes the type of case absolutely makes a difference. Buy a Lyman Loading manual and read the section on matching wads to cases. Using the wrong type wad can cause pressure issues.

I have the Lyman manual on the way. My main job now is to slow my son down, he is overly excited. He is getting 7 lbs of bismuth shot for xmas from his grandparents I just found out.

Thanks again for all the advice. I want him to have a safe and positive experience with reloading.

quote:

Originally posted by slim buttes:
I have the Lyman manual on the way. My main job now is to slow my son down, he is overly excited. He is getting 7 lbs of bismuth shot for xmas from his grandparents I just found out.

Thanks again for all the advice. I want him to have a safe and positive experience with reloading.

Buy him a Lee Loader and let him learn how to load one shell at a time then buy him a MEC Sizemaster once he is making good reliable shells with the Lee Loader.

Geez, the boy wants to load, let him load.
If you want to spring for the shipping, I've got an extra mec 600 jr I'll give him.

40 Thanks for the offer. I just sent my info.

Lots of great advice given in the above posts.

I reload thousands of shotshells in 4 gauges every year but I have NEVER loaded any steel shot for waterfowl. I hunt them sporadically through the year and just use factory ammo. It's the only factory ammo I've used in 55 years!

The steel-loading operation is VERY specialized so make sure he has the correct components. It's way different than lead shot loading IMHO.

Zeke

quote:

Originally posted by ZekeShikar:
Lots of great advice given in the above posts.

The steel-loading operation is VERY specialized so make sure he has the correct components. It's way different than lead shot loading IMHO.
Zeke

Tell him NOT to mess with Steel and Tungsten type waterfowl loads, it is just too specialized.

quote:

Originally posted by Terry Blauwkamp:

quote:

Originally posted by ZekeShikar:
Lots of great advice given in the above posts.

The steel-loading operation is VERY specialized so make sure he has the correct components. It's way different than lead shot loading IMHO.
Zeke

Tell him NOT to mess with Steel and Tungsten type waterfowl loads, it is just too specialized.

I’d disagree re steel and tungsten as the kid is a waterfowler primarily per the post.

I agree it’s specialized and touchy in that you can break guns and such, and I would not start out there, but if you can follow directions, and already understand the basics, it is safe and effective.

You can make loads that you cannot find.

You can experiment and do things like make some cripple stopper loads.

It isn’t necessarily financially beneficial but if he wants to, I’d say go for it.

If you take up theback40's offer of a MEC 600 Junior loading press you will need the kit featured in the link below. Most other loading presses also need various accessories such as special shot charging bars etc., for loading steel shot.

https://www.ballisticproducts....productinfo/1308433/

I have loaded thousands of rounds of lead shot cartridges over several decades for clay target and gamebird shooting however I have no inclination to load steel or other non-toxic shot. Lead shot is still permitted for clay target and land based game bird shooting and for the amount of cartridges I use in a year for shooting waterfowl over or near open water, steel factory ammo is not expensive, performs well, and I have piece of mind using it.

I used to get a lot of enjoyment from loading my own shotshells but as others have posted, steel loading is much more specialized and if not done correctly each and every-time there is potential for things to go south fairly quickly.

Its good that you are getting a copy of the Lyman manual. But the best way to learn to reload shotgun, in my opinion, is to find somebody local who is doing it and go watch them, That is how I learned, very quickly.

I don't think reloading steel is all that tough. Basically its having the right set of components.

Up date on the quest to load shot gun shells. Short story, waiting for components. We found a recipe and are going to make that so we have a successful start.

Thanks to all for the info and please keep it coming and thanks to theback40 for the great little press to get started with.I'm buying a universal charging bar.