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I think I am in the same boat as a lot of hunters. I hunt in fairly open contry in a "shotgun only" zone. Like many states this now includes muzzleloaders and handguns (non-rifle calibers). The only restrictions on the muzzleloaders is no use of smokeless powder, can't use the Savage. The setup would be used only for whitetail deer, so versitility can be ignored. It would also be used in a blind so jump shooting and quick handling attributes are low priority. This brings to mind many questions: Are the longer barrels really doing anything for range? Is it better to sabot down in caliber or just start out with a small caliber? What ever happened to the .45 craze? Does any of the long range stuff the manufacturers are offering work as advertised? Are the magnums accurate enough at full power? There are likely to be 2 ways of looking at this which may give 2 very different setups: The gun with the maximum "point blank" range and the one with a maximum "sufficient remaining energy" range. The second would require better range estimation and aim adjustment. Obviously more of a pain but maybe worth it if the added range is significant. I would also like to state that I learn the effective range of my firearms and myself and stay within them. I also do what I can to get closer and have taken deer from this property on a regular basis. Just looking for options to increase my effective range. I prefer first or second hand information which is not just recited from the marketing hype, or better yet, warns me of products which don't live up to the marketing hype. One last request is that the equipment be availible, i.e. something I could find or order over the internet or at a local gun store. Thank you for your opinions. | ||
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I would work more on ground blinds and less on trying to shoot farther. We started hunting in a more open area in the last couple of years. It has been a learning experience to say the least. It takes some extra work and a lot more scouting, so you can set up in the right place. We have things down pat now, but it is different though. Good luck. | |||
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i would also look at perfecting your ground hunting but with a goof high end tc like there omega or there encore or a kight muzzel loader effective accurae rages of 250 yards is a reality i have a tc encore that i use as my version of a varmint rifle i use 3 triple 7 pellets and a 300 grain hornady sst bullet. groups at 100 yards are under 1 " and buy the way the bullets are .451 dia in a sabot the closer you get to bore size usuallly the more accurate the bullet sabot combo becomes. but do not go cheap remember you get what you pay for as long as you stick with knight or thompson center you will be fine. and tc backs there guns up with a full life time warrenty. | |||
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Quote: Longer barrels will allow more powder to burn prior to the bullet exiting the barrel. But will it make it more accurate? Since sabots are made from plastic, they are at their firmest (therefore most accurate) during cool weather. 40 degrees F. is a lot better temp to do your groups than 70 degrees. The greater the thickness of the sabot, the more higher temps effect the possible slippage of the sabot in the rifling. Therefore, "bigger is better" and a thin sabot around a .45 projecticle in a .50 rifle seems to be more accurate. Bearing surface also comes into play, and a bullet with more bearing surface is more stabilized when it exits the barrel. A friend of mine shot a wounded deer this fall with the T/C 250gr ShockWave at 260 yards. He was using 150gr of Pyrodex. The deer went down in less than 20 feet. What happened to the .45 craze? Mainly bullet selection and wrong twist rifling from manufacturers. The 1/20" twist is just not accurate for anything but very heavy bullets. Some then went to 1/28 & 1/24 twist, but the bullet selection is still very small compared to the .50. And the .50 is so much more versatile with a wide range of loads and caliber bullets it can shoot, i.e., it can shoot anything the .45 can shoot, and much more. There's a limit to what a ML can do. More than anything else, bullet construction has made the "200 yard hype" a reality. Bullets with the best BC, such as PR Bullets and Hornady SST's (same as T/C Shockwaves) are naturally going to outshoot/outkill at longer ranges better than anything else less aerodynamically constructed. All rifle barrels have their own little quirks. Seems like this is most noticeable on the ML's. Very good accuracy is attained in my friends Encore with a full load of pyrodex, while it isn't for diddly in mine. However, I use Goex Clear Shot in mine with 30gr less powder for accuracy and get about the same trajectory as he does. Go figure. Whatever rifle ya get, you will have to play with different load/ bullet combinations to find its highest accuracy potential. Again, it's the bullet - not the gun which will give you the most energy at longer range distances. The higher the BC, the more speed and energy a bullet will have at long ranges, even though a low BC bullet will exit the muzzle at the same speed. | |||
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A strange thing for me to read, looking to extend range! I have been doing the opposite for years. Since I have been an archer forever, I want to hunt the same with guns. I have many deer with muzzle loaders, shotguns, bows and rifles. (around 320 since I lost count.) I gave up rifles real quick and will not tote one into the woods. I only use revolvers now and even want a muzzle loading pistol for that season. If I don't get a shot, I figure so what! Less butchering. I got six this season. Two with the bow and four with revolvers. Never went out in muzzle loader season because it is too easy. I don't know why I feel this way because killing a deer with a revolver is just as easy as using a rifle. Maybe I am to old and lazy to carry anything heavy! I have to agree with some of the posters that you should hunt, not shoot. I never got a thrill from busting a deer out past 200 yds. or 100 for that matter. I like them under 50 yds. I did drop a deer in it's tracks at 100 yds with my .45 Vaquero, now that was exciting! I can't tell you much about the inlines and sabots because I don't like them other then for targets. They are deadly, perhaps too deadly for muzzle loader season, but in shotgun season, they will let you reach out. I'm from Ohio and never found a need to shoot farther then a round ball would travel. I was nasty to Ohio and PA deer with a little .45 flinter. I won't even carry it here in WV because deer are so easy. | |||
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Quote: I put the above paragraph in to try and limit the "bait store" advice. If I had asked how to get closer to deer would I have gotten responces of how to shoot farther? Sorry to sound rude, but in a way it's kind of an insult to me. Thank's Danno and Nitro. Sounds like the technology can compete with the 30-30! | |||
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mms, You might look at buying a book - an old book. Ned Robert's "Caplock Muzzleloading Rifles" will tell you more about shooting long range with muzzleloaders than any other book around. The technology was at its finest in about 1880 but we have forgotten most of it, and are just now reinventing this particular wheel. A .45 is a great caliber for a long range muzzleloader but it will not require, nor even be optimized, with the use of sabots. Mine is an underhammer action but any action will work. Even a flint lock. The trick is in the barrel and the bullet. There are entire competions, news groups, and rifle component sets built around these techniques. But Robert's book is a good place to start. My own .45 long range rifle is a .45 with an 18" twist barrel. While it's easily good to 300 and longer, I managed to shoot my deer this week at 40 and 20 yds, although I live in a shotgun/muzzleloader only location that is quite open as well. Big deer do not come out in the open reliably. So, into the thick stuff I go. Brent | |||
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