I have a Traditions Staghorn in 50 caliber. Since it was new I have had problems getting the load down the barrel.I have tried several loads and no matter how much I clean the gun, it seems to get harder to load. Does this muzzle loader have a smaller barrel than other brands?

The straw that finally broke the camel's back was that today my son shot a six point buck and then couldn't get the next sabot down the barrel.We were using TC sabots. I have a Knight American and do not have this problem.
Any suggestions of what brand of ammo would be greatly appreciated.

For whatever it's worth, the only bullet I use for my M/L is the PowerBelt. Come in various weights, and configurations. These load EASILY in all my guns, and are more than accurate enough for anything I will ever hunt with them. I usually fire 5 shots between cleanings, and have had no problem reloading. These things just plain work. Just try a couple of different types & weights to see which your gun likes best.
Good luck, and I hope the problem works itself out

I have the same problem unless I remove my gun oils first by alcohol swabbing (or) use too much powder (over 100 grains). If using magnum powder charges while hunting, you may need to spit-patch between shots.



Also...I've also known some CVA & Traditions owners who had a hard time loading because they only used blackpowder cleaners when the barrel was new. These type-rifles are built overseas & sometimes grease-layered to avoid rusting. TC-13s & most other blackpowder solvent brands don't remove packing greases that leave the bore walls sticky... yet show a white patch as if the bore was spotless clean. Actually, most of em' don't remove hardly anything from your bore but powder fouling. The only "blackpowder" solvent I trust is Butch's Blackpowder Bore Shine. Even Butch's stops being effective with copper bullets. Then you need to switch to regular Butch's Bore Shine to remove the copper-cladding buildup.



My buddy was shocked when he 'thought" his new ML rifle bore was clean. When I put real cleaners in his bore, it needed another 20 patches to get the patches white again. Get a strong gun solvent that removes copper & lead... even though you have no-such buildup yet. Alternate those patches with gun oil patches until the bore is clean. Then you need alcohol to remove the oils & solvents before shooting.



When swabbing after every shot or every other shot at the range where 20-30 shots may be required to sight-in, use a spray bottle mixed evenly with rubbing alcohol & Windex. Remember... don't have any solvents or oils in the bore when firing the rifle.... no yellow/green butters either with sabots.

Now you guys know why round balls used lubed patches and Maxi balls had lube on them. I have shot over 200 shots from my Hawkin with patched round balls without once cleaning the bore. With the inline and sabots you fight a losing battle. I have seen guys forcing the loads in by ramming the rod against a tree. The bore must be CLEAN.
Power belts are the only way to go. There is a trade off to get the range all of you think you need. I am content to shoot my deer at 100 yds or less with the round ball and see no need to shoot farther. Of course I will pit my Hawkin at 200 yds against any of you.
It might be a better idea to learn to hunt instead of how to shoot farther.
I have nothing against the inline or anyone that uses one, I like to shoot them myself. But a good sidelock round ball gun is a lot easier to use. When the day comes that an inline comes with a 1 in 60 twist for round balls, I will buy one. No sabots for me!

bfrshooter... these questions below are off-subject a tad.



Been reading various replies from you at accuratereloading.com.

1)What Swiss grain size you usin' with those roundballs?

2)How many grains?

3)What's in your patches?



I shoot 777 & roundballs together in my 58-cal Renegade 1-70". Just use the store-bought .015 cotton, bore buttered ones. The butter seems to protect the patches best with hot 777.



Getting back to the subject of Swiss powder, seems to me that 1.5F would be too coarse. Are you using the FF? Someone online told me to avoid the Swiss FFF... way-too-much bore pressures with the real fine Swiss unless you keep charges down around 50 grains.