I was at the range today shooting my .54 Cal using round balls and real "black powder" (Goex FFg) and I noticed after about 7-8 shots it became a lot more difficult to stuff those round balls down the hole - kind of sticky. I was also using round patches that were pre-lubed with wonderlube. My question is: how many shots do you take before running a patch down the barrel? By the way this black powder seemed to have a lot more velocity (I didn't chronograph it) than that other stuff I was using (black powder substitute). Thanks for your help.
It depends on the rifle. I have a rifle that I have to run a couple of patches down about every other shot and I have another rifle that I can get about 5 to 6 shots before running a couple of patches down. On the other hand my dad has a rifle that he can fire anywhere between 15 to 20 shots before he has to clean so go figure. This is all with Goex FFFg.
It also depends on the powder charge, granulation and brand: More powder means more fouling with GOEX FFg, possibly Elephant FFg too. The type/brand of patch lube also makes a difference. For best performance, wipe the bore with a patch dampened with your favorite solvent (windshield washer fluid and or isopropyl/rubbing alcohol are cheap, but good) after every shot. Reload and then swab the bore with a dry patch.
Posts: 480 | Location: N.Y. | Registered: 09 January 2003
What kind of rifle are you using, and does it have cut rifling or button rifling? Believe it or not, it makes a difference.
When I shoot my CVA Hawkin, I use a liquid lube; Falkenberry Juice. I don't know if it is still made, but if you can find it, get some. With liquid lubes, you do not need to wipe between shots, as the patch cleans the barrel on the way down. The CVA has shallow button rifling, and doesn't mind the liquid lube. Wonderlube is good, but you will need to wipe after every shot with a damp patch.
My other rifle has broached rifling, and likes the grooves a tad dirty, for best accuracy. I lightly wipe that one after each shot, using a 2" square patch made from an old threadbare sheet. I simply stick it on my tongue and give it a 'spit patch', then swab. My load patches on that gun are pillow ticking with an 8:1 water/ watersoluable oil, presoaked and dried. In other words, they are a homemade dry lube patch.
On the subject of patching, here is a tip to save you a lot of money. Instead of buying precut store bought patches, go to a cloth store and buy some pillow ticking.
It is helpful if you have a caliper to measure the cloth, look for about .015-.017. Hold the cloth up to the light, you should not be able to see daylight through it. Also, get the ticking without the backing material, which is some kind of plastic or other treatment.
Once you settle on the ticking, try some on the range. (When I found what I wanted, I bought 1/2 a bolt. I probably have enough to leave it in my will.)
Cut a 2 foot long piece and wash it. After it is dry, pull the corners to stretch the material. Cut the ticking into 1 1/2" strips. Take the leading edge of the strip, lube it, place it on the muzzle and center a ball on it. Set it with the short starter. Cut off whatever hangs out of the barrel. Ram it home and fire it. As soon as the range is cold, look for the patches downrange. They should have a nice even circular burn mark on them, and should still be intact.
If there are any holes in them, the material is not strong enough. If the holes look like cut marks, your barrell is sharp and needs a freshing out with some steel wool.
In a pinch, I have used denim but it is usually not strong enough, and I got some blow-by.
I use the empty boxes from the ball to store the rolls of patch material, it keeps my shooting box looking tidy.
[ 05-05-2003, 06:08: Message edited by: El Viejo ]
For accurate shooting, my rifles require "wiping" between each shot, with black powder. However, with Pyrodex I can shoot all day, and clean when I get home....
