I have a quantity of Pyrodex RS and plan to use it in my 54 cal. TC Renegade with maxi-balls,REAL bullets and round balls. Is there a rule as to how much Pyrodex to use to equal the black powder charge?

Nick10Ring@aol.com

volume to volume.

Nick, it is your rifle, but fwiw, in my estimation Pyrodex is VERY hard on rifle barrels. I have looked at several that have had Pyrodex shot out of them, and they were pretty rough... It almost looked as if they had been sandblasted.

quote:

Originally posted by Doubless:
Nick, it is your rifle, but fwiw, in my estimation Pyrodex is VERY hard on rifle barrels. I have looked at several that have had Pyrodex shot out of them, and they were pretty rough... It almost looked as if they had been sandblasted.

+1. The stuff is pretty corrosive.

I'm glad two "someone else's" said that. I never did like Pyro. Swap it for some real black.

I agree; Pyro is crap. Here is my story, a true one. In 1976 or so, when Pyrodex came out, I thought it would be good to have a "noncorrosive" black powder. (BP isn't very corrosive) I took all my black powder up to Sumner's hardware in Louisville and traded it for pyrodex. I quickly found out that it was weak, hard to ignite, and very corrosive to barrels and brass. I stopped using it and still have some of that original stuff. Anyway, I have used only real black powder since; nothing wrong with it and it is not as corrosive as you think. Corrosive caps are 1000 times worse for a rifle.

I have used in a Colt 2nd Generation cap n'ball Pyrpdex, Triple Seven and genuine quality Swiss blackpowder.

The least foulimg, easiest to clean and least foul smelling was the genuine blackpowder.

Pyrodex was the most fouling and the most effort to clean.

Triple Seven was destructive to the pistol and loosened the arbor pin in thus two cylinders of a moderate load.